No, the OP can't backwash or pump to waste... this was already discussed.
Just starting BBB method...
- Thread starter ZESTR
- Start date
No, the OP can't backwash or pump to waste... this was already discussed.
used my last CYA test--since, what the heck, right? i have more coming and I'm just waiting...
pool is SPARKLING clean... boy do I wish I had 871... oh well.
anyway-- I did the CYA test 12 times with the same water-- 100% pool water-- and I got 80 11 times and one time I got 70.
now to be clear, I had back to the sun, holding it at waist level, and I waited til the dot truly disappeared-- right? If I could still make out the circle-- even if murky, that doesnt count, correct--it's at the point when it's truly not visible...? I did that and the point at which it truly disappeared 11 of 12 times was 80.
still draining via garden hose-- have had that in 24 hrs now--- i will do more drainign tonight when my husband gets home-- but need help for that bc of 1 yr old near the pool, etc...
progress!
pool is SPARKLING clean... boy do I wish I had 871... oh well.
anyway-- I did the CYA test 12 times with the same water-- 100% pool water-- and I got 80 11 times and one time I got 70.
now to be clear, I had back to the sun, holding it at waist level, and I waited til the dot truly disappeared-- right? If I could still make out the circle-- even if murky, that doesnt count, correct--it's at the point when it's truly not visible...? I did that and the point at which it truly disappeared 11 of 12 times was 80.
still draining via garden hose-- have had that in 24 hrs now--- i will do more drainign tonight when my husband gets home-- but need help for that bc of 1 yr old near the pool, etc...
progress!
Yes, you wait until the dot has truly disappeared.
Was your pump running before the test? Do not do any tests when the pump isn't running. The pump must be running for at least 30 minutes before you do any tests.
So glad that you've made progress and that you've become more confident and more accurate testing your CYA!
Was your pump running before the test? Do not do any tests when the pump isn't running. The pump must be running for at least 30 minutes before you do any tests.
So glad that you've made progress and that you've become more confident and more accurate testing your CYA!
Got asked a while ago want you could do with your pump. The pic you posted a while back didn't show all your plumbing. For example, where does that pipe from the top of the pump go to? Same question for that angular pipe that runs below the one coming out of the filter.
The only thing I've seen is that you can't use the main drain, and you don't know how to remove water from your pool. I suspect the angular pipe may be the waste or backwash, but I really can't tell cuzz we can't see where it leads to.
Update-- disregard the angular pipe thought! But a better view of the whole plumbing set up would be helpful.
The only thing I've seen is that you can't use the main drain, and you don't know how to remove water from your pool. I suspect the angular pipe may be the waste or backwash, but I really can't tell cuzz we can't see where it leads to.
Update-- disregard the angular pipe thought! But a better view of the whole plumbing set up would be helpful.
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Pump has been running 24/7 since Oct 4 except when cleaning cartridge.
I'll try to get a few more pics of plumbing today!
So, looking at the picture, the black handle thing doesn't do anything for for "the" skimmer. It merely controls which jet(s) the water is returned thru and maybe turning the filter off, though that seems unlikely. But modifying the plumbing to include a waste line shouldn't be too difficult. Since it appears the line coming out of the top of the pump is the input to the filter( top to bottom filtration)? All you'd have to do is cut that and plumb in a two way valve one to filter and the other to a hose bibb (to waste). Plumbing in the main drain is a little more work, mainly because there isn't much room to work with under that valve. If I were you, I'd plumb In two valves to isolate either the main drain or skimmer. I don't know why there's a valve to the return flows since most people would want both returns to work at the same time.
You've come a long way! The cartridge filter definitely speeds up the cleaning. Don't forget to brush every day.
Your new shock goal should be FC of 31. You don't want to go higher than that because it will waste chlorine and you don't want to bleach out your liner.
Okay-- so when I get my drops, aim for 31 for how long? Till I pass that overnight test?
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Right now, I am just keeping the pump going 24/7, vacuuming once a day, and adding 2 qts of 10.5% chlorine at 7am and 7pm since I have NO idea what my FC is at this point. I last tested Sunday evening and it was 34.
Does that seem like the best I can do til the drops come?
(And draining best I can)
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Right now, I am just keeping the pump going 24/7, vacuuming once a day, and adding 2 qts of 10.5% chlorine at 7am and 7pm since I have NO idea what my FC is at this point. I last tested Sunday evening and it was 34.
Does that seem like the best I can do til the drops come?
(And draining best I can)
At some point, your CYA will get below 80 and you will need to adjust your FC target. As your CYA drops, so does your target FC. Overshooting your FC will 1) waste FC and 2) could bleach out your liner.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock
It might be best to do one big drain and don't refill until you have drained enough to get your CYA down to 40. Do this one big drain while waiting for your reagents and you won't have to run a bunch of interim CYA tests.
You keep your FC at shock level for your current CYA until you pass the SLAM criteria found here:
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/125-slam-shock-level-and-maintain-shocking
1. Water is crystal clear; and
2. Your CC is 0.5 or less; and
3. You pass the OCLT (Overnight chlorine loss test, recommended doing this at shock level).
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock
It might be best to do one big drain and don't refill until you have drained enough to get your CYA down to 40. Do this one big drain while waiting for your reagents and you won't have to run a bunch of interim CYA tests.
You keep your FC at shock level for your current CYA until you pass the SLAM criteria found here:
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/125-slam-shock-level-and-maintain-shocking
1. Water is crystal clear; and
2. Your CC is 0.5 or less; and
3. You pass the OCLT (Overnight chlorine loss test, recommended doing this at shock level).
Congratulations on the improvement in your pool, and further congratulations on your (extended) practice with the CYA test -- sounds like you finally have a trustworthy CYA number.
Do you know how much chlorine you were adding every day before you ran out of test reagents? Is the one gallon daily close to that previous amount?
It seemed every time I retested that last day it was telling me to add about 1 gallon + 1 quart--- but it was still fairly green on Sunday-- used my last drops Sunday around 4pm- now it's Wed.
We have vacuumed 10x since Saurday -- and the pool is sparkling. We have cleaned the cartridge 5x.
Okay-- this is a dumb question and I am 99% sure it'll be awhile-- but I can't let my kids swim in this while I wait for drops, right? (It's so hot today).
At what FC can I let them swim again? No idea what my FC is, just know it's either 30 or below as a best guess right now. CYA was 80 yesterday but have drained more and added fresh again so who knows.
Decided esp since swimming season is about to end-- to keep the CYA at wherever it's at (hopefully at least down to 70 if not 60) when the drops come. Then keep removing some water every 2 weeks or so... our yard is small and we are flooding it, etc... and I feel awful using this much water. I know it isn't ideal but the goal will be to get around 40 CYA and just keep plugging away.
Just wondering what FC my kids can swim in-- or possibly we are done swimming til April
We have vacuumed 10x since Saurday -- and the pool is sparkling. We have cleaned the cartridge 5x.
Okay-- this is a dumb question and I am 99% sure it'll be awhile-- but I can't let my kids swim in this while I wait for drops, right? (It's so hot today).
At what FC can I let them swim again? No idea what my FC is, just know it's either 30 or below as a best guess right now. CYA was 80 yesterday but have drained more and added fresh again so who knows.
Decided esp since swimming season is about to end-- to keep the CYA at wherever it's at (hopefully at least down to 70 if not 60) when the drops come. Then keep removing some water every 2 weeks or so... our yard is small and we are flooding it, etc... and I feel awful using this much water. I know it isn't ideal but the goal will be to get around 40 CYA and just keep plugging away.
Just wondering what FC my kids can swim in-- or possibly we are done swimming til April
One more question (unless I should post somewhere else)... should I get a pool cover? Like a plastic one for winter-- or even for summer to prevent evaporation?
I'm in North Florida--- people usually don't swim from Nov- March. We get a few nights below 32 degrees, but not many. The average for the coldest days are in the mid-40s daytime.
I'm in North Florida--- people usually don't swim from Nov- March. We get a few nights below 32 degrees, but not many. The average for the coldest days are in the mid-40s daytime.
It is okay to swim if a) your FC at or below shock level for your CYA, AND b) you can safely see a swimmer at bottom of the deep end.
I don't live in your location, but I use a safety winter pool cover for two reasons, a) keep leaves and other **** out of the pool, and b) safety because dogs can walk on it without falling into the pool.
A winter cover is not the same as a solar cover. You can't easily use a winter cover to keep your chlorine loss low in the summer.
A solar cover is used to reduce evaporation, retain heat and can save you FC, but it is not designed to withstand winters.
Maybe someone else who lives in your location can chime in on what they do for the winter. I know some folks in FL (my home state) keep their pools open and run their pumps full time when the temps get below freezing.
I don't live in your location, but I use a safety winter pool cover for two reasons, a) keep leaves and other **** out of the pool, and b) safety because dogs can walk on it without falling into the pool.
A winter cover is not the same as a solar cover. You can't easily use a winter cover to keep your chlorine loss low in the summer.
A solar cover is used to reduce evaporation, retain heat and can save you FC, but it is not designed to withstand winters.
Maybe someone else who lives in your location can chime in on what they do for the winter. I know some folks in FL (my home state) keep their pools open and run their pumps full time when the temps get below freezing.
I bought an intermatic digital timer last year that has a freeze sensor that will turn on the pump automatically when the air temp reaches 32 and below them off when it gets back above 32. Last winter, we had several nights as low as 15 degrees. In fact, it burst a metal faucet diverter. No telling what it might have done to my above ground plumbing or equip. Now with my vs pump, I can set it to run at 450rpm to keep the water moving. The previous owner, just ran the single speed pump all night. Which irritated the**** out of the folks next door. That was a noisy pump!
- Jun 12, 2011
- 3,767
- Pool Size
- 19500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
The Pentair VS has a freeze protection feature built in to the onboard timer system, you don't need a seperate timer.
My refills just arrived!!!!
Will be back after testing. So curious to see what the FC is since today is Thur and we havent tested it since Sunday-- just kept adding 1 quart of chlorine evry 12-24 hrs in hopes of not losing the clear pool.
Yes-- we can see so clearly at the bottom now. On Sunday we couldnt even see my husband underwater the second his head went below (he dived down to get all the pine cones before SLAMing).
Maybe a solar cover would be a good idea then? We have a pool fence all the way around since we have little kids, so we prob won't get a hard cover-- I think I meant a solar cover.
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PS- Since pool is crystal clear (was green 5 days ago)-- I'll def need help deciding how to proceed after I report my FC because I haven't been able to finish the SLAM as directed since I had no way to test FC... back with results soon...
Will be back after testing. So curious to see what the FC is since today is Thur and we havent tested it since Sunday-- just kept adding 1 quart of chlorine evry 12-24 hrs in hopes of not losing the clear pool.
Yes-- we can see so clearly at the bottom now. On Sunday we couldnt even see my husband underwater the second his head went below (he dived down to get all the pine cones before SLAMing).
Maybe a solar cover would be a good idea then? We have a pool fence all the way around since we have little kids, so we prob won't get a hard cover-- I think I meant a solar cover.
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PS- Since pool is crystal clear (was green 5 days ago)-- I'll def need help deciding how to proceed after I report my FC because I haven't been able to finish the SLAM as directed since I had no way to test FC... back with results soon...
CYA= 60
FC= 20
CC= .5
What do I do now? What's my target FC? Do I test alkalinity or calcium or anything else?
I did the CYA test 7x and then made my husband do it once to see if he got the same-- 60 every time! I was so excited-- I didn't think draining to the skimmer and refilling 2x a day would do much!
Going to keep this CYA and with kids playing and splashing, & rainwater, I am sure we can get it down slowly but surely.
What is my plan? Am I still SLAM-ing... I feel kind of lost since we had 3 days of not knowing the FC. Pol is being filled back 3 inches right now-- then I'll test CYA again tonight once it's mixed in and re-test FC and everything.
Just wondering what my goals are now?
THANKS!
FC= 20
CC= .5
What do I do now? What's my target FC? Do I test alkalinity or calcium or anything else?
I did the CYA test 7x and then made my husband do it once to see if he got the same-- 60 every time! I was so excited-- I didn't think draining to the skimmer and refilling 2x a day would do much!
Going to keep this CYA and with kids playing and splashing, & rainwater, I am sure we can get it down slowly but surely.
What is my plan? Am I still SLAM-ing... I feel kind of lost since we had 3 days of not knowing the FC. Pol is being filled back 3 inches right now-- then I'll test CYA again tonight once it's mixed in and re-test FC and everything.
Just wondering what my goals are now?
THANKS!
Glad you got your test kit and that you are now getting consistent results with the CYA test.
Before you do anything, test PH and post those results here.
Before you do anything, test PH and post those results here.
Duh! You can't test PH because your FC is too high. PH test is unreliable when FC >=10.
I would continue the SLAM.
Use pool math at the top of this page, put in your test results, at the bottom it will tell you your target FC for shock, put that info into the target FC and it will tell you how much bleach to add to bring back up to shock level.
Tonight you can try the OCLT. Read about that here:
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/136-perform-the-overnight-fc-chlorine-loss-test-oclt
For the OCLT, bring FC to shock level for your CYA, test FC after the sun has goes down. In the morning before the sun rises, test FC again.
You can even do an OCLT tonight to see if you pass.
I would continue the SLAM.
Use pool math at the top of this page, put in your test results, at the bottom it will tell you your target FC for shock, put that info into the target FC and it will tell you how much bleach to add to bring back up to shock level.
Tonight you can try the OCLT. Read about that here:
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/136-perform-the-overnight-fc-chlorine-loss-test-oclt
For the OCLT, bring FC to shock level for your CYA, test FC after the sun has goes down. In the morning before the sun rises, test FC again.
You can even do an OCLT tonight to see if you pass.
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Okay-- I am excited! (Is that lame?)
Our FC is 20 and it says shock FC should be 24, so adding chlorine right now to bring it up. It's 5pm here-- we'll test again at 8pm and then again at 7am before sun gets back there.
Thank you!!
Our FC is 20 and it says shock FC should be 24, so adding chlorine right now to bring it up. It's 5pm here-- we'll test again at 8pm and then again at 7am before sun gets back there.
Thank you!!