Just opened

JW1

Well-known member
Sep 4, 2019
204
SW Ohio
Just opened this morning. My results are

Chlorine -0
PH - 7.5
CH - 350
TA - 90
CYA - didn’t test since I didn’t add any last fall after install

I assume I just move to the slam process now
 
You'll need your CYA to be able to follow the FC/CYA Levels. It likely dropped over the winter on its own and possibly more due to rain exchange if you had a mesh cover.
 
You need to know how much CYA to add by testing the current level. Then add appropriately. Next get your FC to where it needs to be and do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to determine if you need a slam. If the water is clear and you pass the OCLT, you are fine
 
P.s. either the sock method in front of a return, or in the skimmer works for adding the CYA. Just soak and occasionally squeeeze.
 
Just opened this morning. My results are

Chlorine -0
PH - 7.5
CH - 350
TA - 90
CYA - didn’t test since I didn’t add any last fall after install

I assume I just move to the slam process now
I have CYA to add. Do I slam today and start using the sock method to add the cya as well?
First things first, lets get some FC in your pool! If there are no signs of algae, target 5, otherwise target 10.

For CYA, do you mean that you have never added CYA to the pool after a new fill and didn't test because you already know it's 0? If that's the case, then no need to test, just add 30 CYA via the sock method. If there was previously CYA in the water before you closed, then you will need to test CYA before adding any to your pool.

Since you are asking about a SLAM, does that mean you see algae in the water? If so, then yes, start the SLAM process and feel free to ask any other questions you might have :)
 
Water looks clear. Brushed and vacuumed. Placed a Hair net in the skimmer for the very first time. The hairnet has already turned dark. Tested the water, except for CYA, since it has never been added before, so it has to be zero. Added LC to bring it up to 10. In hindsight, I most likely didn’t need to, but I did use the last gallon from the fall. Now adding cya via sock to bring up to 30. I assume tomorrow I will test for chlorine and PH and then focus on those target zones?
 
Sounds like a good plan, bringing the FC to 10 certainly won't hurt anything but it sounds like you do not need to SLAM. If you want to be sure, you could do an OCLT tonight. If you pass you are officially in maintenance mode :). Don't bother testing CYA until 24 hrs after it is fully dissolved, until then just assume it's all in there and use the FC targets for 30 CYA in the FC/CYA chart.
 
I'm going to revise my previous answer a little... I just saw your other thread (First spring opening) and in the picture you posted there your water is blue but looks cloudy. The cloudy water suggests the start of algae so I would do a quick SLAM. Use the SLAM level for 30 CYA and test and maintain FC at 12 (at least 3 times per day) until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria:

1) clear water - in TFP this is defined as crystal clear. There should be no cloudiness or visible algae and you should be able to read heads or tails of a coin in the deep end.
2) CC less than or equal to 0.5
3) pass OCLT - FC loss of 1 or less overnight
 
I brought FC back up to slam level about 1/2 hour before sunset. Tested the FC a hour later for the first step of OCLT. Still a bit of cya in the toe area of that dangling Nike sock. Pump is constantly running and I changed the hairnet before calling it a day.
 

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Water is looking clear. Last night OCLT was 33 drops -16.5 with assistance from teenage son. This morning OCLT was 30 drops -15. I can see now how the speedstir would be a nice addition. I’m will continue to keep the chlorine at slam today. The cya sock is empty this morning. I assume I wait about a week for testing cya? Hairnet looked fairly clear this morning, used two yesterday and they looked like used coffee filters. Spring is blooming here.
 
I passed my OCLT this morning. Couple of more questions
1. I assume I now let my chlorine drift down to the target range and maintain?
2. When chlorine is in target range restart the ph testing?
3. I need to test for cya. I’ve read to do so when water is 70 degrees and do so on a sunny day? If correct, take water sample inside the house on a sunny day and wait a few hours to let it get room temp and test?
4. After doing the fas-dpd test it makes me think why do the chlorine test that is on the other side of the ph test unless I just want a quick check during the day?
5. If I develop a routine of doing testing and treatment at sunset to help protect the LC. I assume I should Always wait a minimum 30 minutes between adding muriatic acid and LC?
 
I passed my OCLT this morning. Couple of more questions
1. I assume I now let my chlorine drift down to the target range and maintain?
2. When chlorine is in target range restart the ph testing?
3. I need to test for cya. I’ve read to do so when water is 70 degrees and do so on a sunny day? If correct, take water sample inside the house on a sunny day and wait a few hours to let it get room temp and test?
4. After doing the fas-dpd test it makes me think why do the chlorine test that is on the other side of the ph test unless I just want a quick check during the day?
5. If I develop a routine of doing testing and treatment at sunset to help protect the LC. I assume I should Always wait a minimum 30 minutes between adding muriatic acid and LC?
I’ll try to answer as best as I can but I’m sure some experts will chime in!

1. Yes. Keep checking it and let it drift down to the acceptable range and maintain. You can read about it in Pool School and the PoolMath app has been a lifesaver for me!

2. Correct, but you can also test pH before target range as long as FC levels are below 10 ppm. Anything higher will be inaccurate.

3. Water does not need to be 70 degrees to test CYA. If you test before the water hits 50 degrees, your results will likely be off. I test mine when the water temps hit 60 but that’s just me personally. I do not let the water heat up inside the house. I just test it as soon as I get my water sample and run my other tests (as needed). You do want to perform the test outside with your back turned to the sun. Keep the tube at waist level. I also perform this test 3 times since it can be confusing as soon as you get close to not seeing the dot. Just pour back into the bottle and shake it again and let it sit for a min or so.

4. The “quick” chlorine test that is next to your pH test is just to ensure each day that your chlorine levels are within the range they should be but it is not an actual test for FC (as in the ppm will not be exact like it is with the powder test, but you can see if it is adequate range). Basically, it is for reassurance.

5. There is no right or wrong time of day to test your water (unless you’re doing an OCLT which you mention you passed), but since sunlight lowers chlorine levels throughout the day, I always add my liquid chlorine at sunset. Again, this is all preference and by no means required. You can test and add chemicals at any time of day. As far as muriatic acid goes, I do not use it (it scares me lol) so I can’t help with that one, sorry. Someone else can chime in on that one. I hope this helped! ?

EDIT: One more thing, I HIGHLY recommend purchasing the Taylor SpeedStir if you haven’t already. Makes water testing sooooo much easier! I’m mad at myself for not buying one sooner lol
 
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Just did my first cya test. I added 40 ounces via sock method on Friday to water that never had any cya. I’m guessing my pool size is 10,000 gallons, but not positive on that estimate. Last night took water sample and kept in the house overnight. Tested with sun to my back and got between 20-30. Closer to 20 then 30, but more like 22.5. Did the test two more times and again it came in just a bit over the 20 line. With the new updated recommendations levels my target is 40. I assume I say my current cya is 30 and then target 40?
 
Correct on CYA. Assume next higher if it seems in between.

She may not need to lower pH. Not everyone does. I would let your pH rise to 8.0 before lowering. You want to see if it may stabilize at 8.0 or less. Ideally it does and you don't need to use any MA. With a FG pool, you could very well see minimal pH rise. Your TA is fine though it may lower over time if you do need to add some MA to lower pH. This lower TA in turn will help to keep your pH from rising. But I wouldn't use any chemicals to lower TA. It goes down with repeated MA use to lower pH.

If your pH stays constant at some level of 8.0 or less, you are good.
 
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Any concerns with losing half my chlorine during the day under these circumstances?

Today my chlorine went from 18 ppm at 7:17 am to 9.0 at 7:29 pm. Tested for combined chlorine this morning and it was zero. Tested tonight it was zero. Now the pool was fun sun and extremely clear. Sparkling clear with the sun shining on it. The temperature was upper 60’s. Water temp in surface was low 60’s. Tested for cya and it was low 20’s. Counted it as 30 and added more conditioner via sock method to try and get to 40. I know I’ve made a few mistakes with testing but feel like I’ve corrected those mistakes by continuing to retest over the past 72-96 hours.
 
Seems high despite the low CYA. Sun angle is still pretty low and water temp is cold.
But you’ve done the first half of your OCLT since I presume the sun was off the pool by 7:30? Test early in the morning and you’ll know if anything is amiss.Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
 
Tested again last night at 10 pm with the pool in complete darkness. My chlorine testing showed 8. Tested again this morning at 6:30 am. Pool in darkness. Chlorine was 8. CC was 0. PH was 7.5, calcium was 350 and TA was 100.

Pump been running continuous. Finished the cya sock method yesterday at 6 pm. Will try to test cya level later today if I get some good sunlight this afternoon.
 

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