Here are my numbers.
FC = 0
pH = 8
TA = 40
CH = 90
CYA = 0
SALT = 1200
Going to shock it tonight.
FC = 0
pH = 8
TA = 40
CH = 90
CYA = 0
SALT = 1200
Going to shock it tonight.
Just opened pool
- Thread starter SeanyAny
- Start date
With CYA at zero the Free Chlorine ain't going to last long. But CYA takes time to buildup. Just check the levels often and keep up the FC levels.
- Jun 22, 2014
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Tell us a little bit more about your water. Is it crystal clear to the bottom, or is it cloudy or green from winter? If you have any doubt, run an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to confirm. If you added chlorine this evening, tomorrow check your FC level. It would be interesting to know if some of it held over night. If so, that's a good sign and you should be able to add 30 ppm worth of stabilizer. But if the FC fell back to zero, there may be other issues to address before you add stabilizer. So if your FC disappears overnight let us know.
You're in a bit of a TA/pH yo-yo situation. You need to lower the pH but your TA will go too low with acid. So add some baking soda to get the TA up to about 70, then treat the pH. If you do end-up performing a SLAM Process to remove algae, the pH will need to be lowered to about 7.2 anyways.
You're in a bit of a TA/pH yo-yo situation. You need to lower the pH but your TA will go too low with acid. So add some baking soda to get the TA up to about 70, then treat the pH. If you do end-up performing a SLAM Process to remove algae, the pH will need to be lowered to about 7.2 anyways.
The water was pretty dark and grimy. I shocked it and it looks better but its still cloudy. Im getting the numbers now.
MITBeta
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- May 28, 2020
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- Jun 22, 2014
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Based on your conditions, here's what I would recommend doing:
1. Add baking soda for a TA target of 70
2. At the same time, add enough liquid chlorine to get the FC to 10 ppm. Re-test in 10 min. If it remained at 5 or above, go to next step. If not, repeat by adding chlorine to an FC of 10 and test again in 10 min until you are sure the FC is starting to hold between 5-10 ppm.
3. Now that is holding FC between 5-10 for at least 10 minutes, add granular stabilizer via the sock method with a CYA target of 30.
4. Lower the pH to 7.2
5. Increase the FC to "12", maintain as best as you can, and follow the SLAM Process.
Be prepared to have lots of liquid chlorine available. One final thought - If the water is really bad, coupled with high chlorine prices, some people might elect to do a healthy water exchange if the cost of water is less expensive. It might also help accelerate the SLAM. Totally your call, but if you do exchange water, follow-up here with a new set of water test results and I'm sure that can change things.
1. Add baking soda for a TA target of 70
2. At the same time, add enough liquid chlorine to get the FC to 10 ppm. Re-test in 10 min. If it remained at 5 or above, go to next step. If not, repeat by adding chlorine to an FC of 10 and test again in 10 min until you are sure the FC is starting to hold between 5-10 ppm.
3. Now that is holding FC between 5-10 for at least 10 minutes, add granular stabilizer via the sock method with a CYA target of 30.
4. Lower the pH to 7.2
5. Increase the FC to "12", maintain as best as you can, and follow the SLAM Process.
Be prepared to have lots of liquid chlorine available. One final thought - If the water is really bad, coupled with high chlorine prices, some people might elect to do a healthy water exchange if the cost of water is less expensive. It might also help accelerate the SLAM. Totally your call, but if you do exchange water, follow-up here with a new set of water test results and I'm sure that can change things.
Thanks for all your replies. Is there a preferred type of liquid chlorine? Strength, etc?
- Jun 22, 2014
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Examples include Walmart's Pool Essentials (10%), Home Depot's 3-pack (10%), or the local pool store (10% or 12%). I'm sure there are other place in your area. Just depends on availability really. Good luck!
Shocked last night but I put in too much liquid chlorine.
FC = 15
CC = 1
pH = 7.8
TA = 90
CH = 130
CYA = 40
Salt = 2000
FC = 15
CC = 1
pH = 7.8
TA = 90
CH = 130
CYA = 40
Salt = 2000
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,086
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- 17888
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Actually no. The proper SLAM FC level for your CYA is 16 per the FC/CYA Levels. Hopefully you lowered the pH to about 7.2 before starting the SLAM Process as instructed on that page. But now is the time to maintain an FC of 16 and follow all the steps noted on that SLAM Process page. No need to test the other items during the SLAM except for perhaps CC and occasionally CYA is you do a lot of backwashing/water exchange.
- Jun 8, 2019
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If your CYA is 40 then you're safe with up to 16ppm of FC, so you're fine. 16ppm is the recommended SLAM level for 40ppm of CYA. Note that when above 10ppm of FC, the pH test is not going to be accurate - you shouldn't bother testing pH if it's above 10ppm until it comes down.
How does the pool look?
How does the pool look?
Hard to say because its a dark blue liner and its very overcast right now. Looks like a hazy blue. I heard for salt pools, cya should be about 70?
- Jun 22, 2014
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Yes, but only after all the algae is gone and you passed all 3 SLAM criteria. Right now you want the CYA at 40 as it requires a lower free chlorine level.
- Jun 8, 2019
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See this link:
SLAM Process
Essentially you are correct. Keep it at 16, testing as often as you are reasonably able (up to every couple of hours, at least 2-3 times a day), and run the pump to get the crud filtered through your filter. Brush/vacuum regularly, backwash when your pressure goes up by 25% over whatever it is after you backwash. I'd recommend putting a pole down into the water with your brush and seeing if the clarity improves daily.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,086
- Pool Size
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That's a big part of it, but not everything. The SLAM Process page reminds you of all the other details to do like brushing, vacuuming, inspecting, etc. The better you follow thta page the sooner you should pass the 3 SLAM criteria.
- Jun 8, 2019
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Depends on what falls into your pool. I use hairnets as skimmer socks because I get pine needles in the pool that have a tendency to slip through the baskets and jack up my filter.
EDIT: Here's what I use:
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