Just getting started, here's my plan, am I doing the right thing?
- Thread starter brokenblinker
- Start date
Thanks! If we want to slowly drain over time, to reduce our CYA, is it safe to drain pool water onto the grass? Will it kill the grass?
Google searches tell me yes...but depending on the source, they also tell me I need a bunch of pool chemicals I don't need.
Google searches tell me yes...but depending on the source, they also tell me I need a bunch of pool chemicals I don't need.
It depends. Many will say no problem at all, and some others see the grass go brown. I suspect a variety of things influence that reaction like the type of grass, soil type and hydration, pool water chemistry, etc. If you're not in a hurry, you can always pour some pool water in a test area for a day or two and see what happens. Might take about a week before you really know or not.
After being done with our SLAM for a few days, it seems we drop from about 15 -> 10 ppm / day. Does this seem reasonable?
With our CYA at 70, recommended level is 8-10. To ensure we don't ever drop below, I've been hedging at the top end of this range and adding approximately 2 qts @10% per day (recommended amount via poolmath app when bumping our FC 4-5ppm) What do other people do? I suppose we could add a little more than a gallon every other day.
With our CYA at 70, recommended level is 8-10. To ensure we don't ever drop below, I've been hedging at the top end of this range and adding approximately 2 qts @10% per day (recommended amount via poolmath app when bumping our FC 4-5ppm) What do other people do? I suppose we could add a little more than a gallon every other day.
Your FC can drop a little faster whenever it's higher over the normal daily recommended range. That's not totally unexpected. But now that your SLAM is complete, you try to stay in that 8-10 range and never below 5. If you hit an FC of 11 or even 12 by accident, it's okay, but 8-10 should be your sweet spot. Now if you see your FC drop from 10 to 5 in one day with no reasonable explanation like a heavy swimming load, it may be time to do another Overnight Chlorine Loss Test.
Just wanted to say wow and thank you again to everyone!
Family broke in the pool for the first time today. FC was 9.5 when we started swimming.
Baby loved it (after hating it for about 30s and we put her in the floater), had a blast splashing around. My wife has always loved pools, so she had a blast. And I swam around and was amazed at how clear the water was - I've literally never been in a pool this clear in my life.
Thanks so much to everyone for all of your advice!
Family broke in the pool for the first time today. FC was 9.5 when we started swimming.
Baby loved it (after hating it for about 30s and we put her in the floater), had a blast splashing around. My wife has always loved pools, so she had a blast. And I swam around and was amazed at how clear the water was - I've literally never been in a pool this clear in my life.
Thanks so much to everyone for all of your advice!
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Done! The advice has been well worth the price.
On to the next issue. My pump has a leak that seems to be getting worse. When the pump turns on, this area spills a bunch of water, then eventually stops spilling. It used to leak only for a split second at pump startup. It seems like it is taking 30s-1min now to stop leaking. What hardware do I need to replace to fix this leak?
On to the next issue. My pump has a leak that seems to be getting worse. When the pump turns on, this area spills a bunch of water, then eventually stops spilling. It used to leak only for a split second at pump startup. It seems like it is taking 30s-1min now to stop leaking. What hardware do I need to replace to fix this leak?
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As for the leak, a replacement adapter fitting may be in order. Depending on the adapter, you should find an o-ring or gasket underneath. That might be the trouble spot. Usually the most difficult part of changing an adapter is the connection at the white PVC pipe if a union wasn't used. You can always unscrew that adapter, check the threads & gasket or o-ring. An o-ring may just need a little silicone or to be replaced. Gaskets don't get lubed, but may just need to be replaced. If the gasket or o-ring is doing its job properly, you shouldn't need anything on the threads, but if you wish to place 4-5 wraps of Teflon tape on the threads it may help. You might get lucky with one of those as opposed to replacing the entire adapter.
As for the leak, a replacement adapter fitting may be in order. Depending on the adapter, you should find an o-ring or gasket underneath. That might be the trouble spot. Usually the most difficult part of changing an adapter is the connection at the white PVC pipe if a union wasn't used. You can always unscrew that adapter, check the threads & gasket or o-ring. An o-ring may just need a little silicone or to be replaced. Gaskets don't get lubed, but may just need to be replaced. If the gasket or o-ring is doing its job properly, you shouldn't need anything on the threads, but if you wish to place 4-5 wraps of Teflon tape on the threads it may help. You might get lucky with one of those as opposed to replacing the entire adapter.As you recommended, I unscrewed and wrapped some nylon tape, then tighten it back down. No leaks anymore!
As we've been maintaining for a while, I've started to accrue empty bottles of Chlorine and Muriatic Acid. Do people just put these in the garbage? Do we need to do special disposal?
Oly
Gold Supporter
Don't rinse the chlorine jugs when empty rather fill them with tap water, label them H2O and store for emergency use in the trunk of your cars or at home.
So many uses for those sturdy jugs and yes they can be recycled.
So many uses for those sturdy jugs and yes they can be recycled.
