Just getting started and need help.

Ok understood now. Also how long after I add these chemicals should I test? I should be receiving my TF100 kit tomorrow. So I guess I will add the stuff today and be able to test tomorrow.

Also I saw it say I could add muriatic acid or dry acid. Is either one better than the other and is either one just as easy to find?

Is the TF100 kit pretty easy to use?
Most here recommend waiting at least an hour, so tomorrow would be fine.

Either is ok to use. Some people are uncomfortable using Muriatic acid and prefer the dry acid. Sometimes the dry acid is easier to get. The stuff in your privious post is fine to use. The MSDS lists it as 32.5% just be aware that people have reported that HD also sells 14.5% and that's not a good deal.

Yeah it's pretty easy to use. It has instructions on the box and if you'd prefer PaulR has a link in his sig to a one page instruction sheet he created that's great.
 
Bama Rambler said:
Ok understood now. Also how long after I add these chemicals should I test? I should be receiving my TF100 kit tomorrow. So I guess I will add the stuff today and be able to test tomorrow.

Also I saw it say I could add muriatic acid or dry acid. Is either one better than the other and is either one just as easy to find?

Is the TF100 kit pretty easy to use?
Most here recommend waiting at least an hour, so tomorrow would be fine.

Either is ok to use. Some people are uncomfortable using Muriatic acid and prefer the dry acid. Sometimes the dry acid is easier to get. The stuff in your privious post is fine to use. The MSDS lists it as 32.5% just be aware that people have reported that HD also sells 14.5% and that's not a good deal.

Yeah it's pretty easy to use. It has instructions on the box and if you'd prefer PaulR has a link in his sig to a one page instruction sheet he created that's great.

So on the jug or the box it will say 32.5 or the 31.45 that is recommends? Am I looking in any specific place for that number or will it say it pretty clearly?

I am just wanted to make sure I do it all correctly as to get to enjoy my pool soon.
 
On the link you gave, under "More Info" is this MSDS file where it says 32.5 for the percentage of Hydrochloric acid. It should say that on the jug as well. If one can find 15-16% Muriatic Acid at roughly half the price, then that's also reasonable and it fumes less. The thing to watch out for are stores that sell the 15-16% strength for the same price as 31.45%.

This stuff is nasty so be sure and be upwind from it when you open the jug and pour. You'll want to pour it very slowly over a return flow in the deep end of the pool. Then, to ensure thorough mixing, I would lightly brush the side and bottom of your pool in the area where you've poured the acid. After that, it should mix fairly quickly if your pool has decent circulation -- usually waiting a half-hour is more than sufficient (with good circulation one can get pretty thorough mixing even in 10 minutes, but that's with floor drains, skimmer and multiple returns). Do not, under any circumstances, ever pour any acid directly into the skimmer.
 
laurandavid09 said:
I have never really given any attention to bleach before. Will it say on the jug unscented?
Most often it doesn't say anything... just avoid bleach that identifies itself as "new fresh scent" or "lavender delight" etc. Clorox and many other brands state plainly that they contain 6.00% sodium hypochlorite. I wouldn't buy bleach that doesn't list the percentage; it's likely to be 3 or 4%.
 
Ok added the bleach and acid last night. Should receive my test kit today. We had a huge rainstorm last night, so hopefully that did not affect too much. It pretty much rained all night, so I put it in when the rain slacked down.

My pool is starting to look a lot better though. I can see pretty clearly to the bottom in the shallow end and the deep end is still fuzzy, but can see a little to the bottom. I can actually see the light now in the deep end though.
 

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Bama Rambler said:
Whoohoo :party: We're all waiting with bated breath!

As well as I am. Even leaving work early to get home haha. Also should I take the test at the water level it is at, or should I drain the water back to a normal level and then test? If not can I drain some water out to get it back to a reasonable level and take the test at the same time? Does it matter if the sample is taking from the shallow end of deep end? Also now that I added the bleach, will I use the in pool chlorinator anymore after I get levels to normal? One other questions, is there a way to heat up your pool water other than having a pool heater installed. I do not want a pool heater so was seeing if there was another way. I see these solar things you can get, but they seem to be only for pools.

Every day I go home, it seems the pool is getting clearer. I get so excited each and every day. Is this normal or am I a little crazy?

Thanks.
 
laurandavid09 said:
Every day I go home, it seems the pool is getting clearer. I get so excited each and every day. Is this normal or am I a little crazy?

Sounds normal for a TFP Convert. Pooliosis, or Sparklypoolitis.... :mrgreen:

It doesn't really matter where you take the test from, but it's a good idea to always test in the same general area (18 inches down) after the water has been circulating for awhile. You shouldn't have to drain to test.

You can continue to use tablets or a "chlorinator" if you routinely test the PH/TA and keep them in range, because tablets lower them. Also you have to track your CYA levels because tablets will build up the CYA. But yes, once you have completed the shock process, you can occassionally use tablets if you like, some people use them regularly, some just use daily bleach additions, and some use a combination.

Just remember after all is said and done, in addition to PH/TA and CYA, you still have to test your FC levels and make sure you are maintaining the levels according to the CYA chlorine chart. So if the tablets don't do that for you, then you'll need to supplement with bleach. Hope that makes sense. :wink:
 
I have another questions. I was looking around home depot and did not see anything. Is there something that you can buy that will help you measure stuff out when you need to add it? I am not sure if walmart or places like that sell measuring utensils big enough for some of the amounts may use. When I was adding the stuff last night, I was guessing. So I would prefer to get something to measure and try to get closer to actual than what I was last night. Also not sure if some of those measuring things would get messed up by some of the chemicals you would add such as acid.

Thanks.
 
laurandavid09 said:
Is there something that you can buy that will help you measure stuff out when you need to add it?
I used 1 pint tupperware containers to measure out dry chemicals ("a pint's a pound... the world round.") Rinse them VERY thoroughly between uses if you're going to multi-purpose them; it's best to have a measure for each one. You can use either glass or plastic measuring cups (2 or 4 cup) for muriatic acid -- plastic is better since it won't break if dropped.
 
laurandavid09 said:
Every day I go home, it seems the pool is getting clearer. I get so excited each and every day. Is this normal or am I a little crazy?

Thanks.

I've had my pool for 23 years. I'm just ending the AA treatment and re-balancing. It has taken longer than "normal" as the pool water is so cool,i.e., the chemical process works more slowly. Every morning, even before I make my coffee (No one approaches me till I've had my first cup :evil: except the dogs, of course), I excitedly go out to look at our beautiful pool. And I anxiously await the day warming or a break in the rain, to not only do some work on it, but to just watch it. :lol: It was even worse a couple of months ago when I put in the new color changing LED light. Hubby is feeling neglected. :eek: "Pool Crazy" fits in well here at TFP. :-D

gg=alice
 
laurandavid09 said:
Is there something that you can buy that will help you measure stuff out when you need to add it?

Thanks.

polyvue's idea is great. :) Walmart has three-to-a-set plastic (rubbery) cups, reasonable price, that nestle, largest being 4 cups, with liter markings on the opposite sides. The smallest is nice for diluting pool/spa water with distilled water when you need dilution for testing. I have an 8 cup plastic measuring "cup", with a top, that is great also, but I still like polyvue's idea best for larger amounts. BTW... the 8 cup one is used exclusively for storing hummingbird food in the fridge after making it in a big, glass (Pyrex) 8 cup measuring "cup", in the microwave. (I wouldn't want to use anything like that near the pool as it somewhat "explodes" when dropped on a hard surface). :shock:

gg=alice
 
That is all I know for now
You should remove that from your sig because the knowledge you have obtained in the last few days has been significant.

I see nothing in your test results that are "way off".

pH is fine but shouldn't go lower
FC doesn't need to go any lower but it's okay
CC is perfect
TA is high but not unmanageable
CH is high but not unmanageable
CYA is a bit low but I wouldn't raise it 'til next Spring.

Post back your second CH test and we'll have some suggestions for you.
 
duraleigh said:
That is all I know for now
You should remove that from your sig because the knowledge you have obtained in the last few days has been significant.

I see nothing in your test results that are "way off".

pH is fine but shouldn't go lower
FC doesn't need to go any lower but it's okay
CC is perfect
TA is high but not unmanageable
CH is high but not unmanageable
CYA is a bit low but I wouldn't raise it 'til next Spring.

Post back your second CH test and we'll have some suggestions for you.

Retest of CH

pH-7.2
FC-2.5
CC-0
TA-210(pink color) or 220 (Red)
CH-150
CYA-30
 

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