Just bought house with pool---probably hasn't been opened in 3 years...

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Hulligan said:
Yeah...it grossed me out too. We had the filter running and within an hour the entire skimmer basket was FULL. I pulled it out and dumped it before I could grab my phone. The dogs were watching and the last time I flicked just one bullfrog out they ate it. If there are any left in the skimmer today I will post just for Beens! :)
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LOL!! Aren't you nice! :)
 
The skies parted so I ran the initial tests...here's what I got:

CL Br : clear
pH: 6.8
Clor Drop Test: clear (so i skipped the FC and CYA)
TA: 50
Cal Hardness: 25


SO...other than continuing to scoop daily, what should I be dumping in there? I looked at the pool math page, but not sure how I should set my goals.

- - - Updated - - -

Not as much gross stuff today but still a pretty good ewwwwwww factor.

On a related note, one of the baskets is cracked. Are they standard sizes that I could find in a pool store?


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I'm loving the pictures for sure. Bonus points for swamp to clear pool when it's REALLY a swamp complete with vast quantities of wildlife!

PoolMath is a GREAT tool and it's fairly easy to use once you tinker with it for a while. Check here first for recommended levels: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/134-recommended-levels Your test results go in the Now column in Pool Math. The target numbers your shooting for go in the Target column. Use the levels from the Recommended Levels page as your Target numbers. Target FC is dependent on CYA level. See the Chlorine/CYA chart (link is in my signature) for that. pH changes are affected by TA levels so you need to have both in there for pH changes for sure.

What you can address now:
pH is low, TA is marginally low, might be OK. Worry about the pH only for now. Use Pool Math to calculate what is needed in weight for Borax to go from 6.8 Now to 7.4. This will bring up your pH while marginally bringing up you TA. The extra tools at the bottom of the Pool Math page, Effects of adding chemicals is great to see what will happen if you add specific amounts of each chemical. Post what you're planning on adding for chemicals here before doing so to get some reassurance.

Your CYA is likely zero, but I wouldn't worry about CYA or chlorine until you get all the wildlife and organics out that you can. Adding a gallon or two won't hurt, in fact it may help kill off some of the remaining creatures and discourage new hatching, growth. I wouldn't even try to start the SLAM process in earnest until you've gotten nearly all of the critters out. Other experts may have additional suggestions but getting as much crud and crawl out of the pool will save time and $$$ on bleach.

EDIT: On the skimmer basket. If it's not a huge crack, just keep using it. If it's a larger crack affecting the structure, look for branding inside or outside the skimmer lid and search (google, amazon, etc.) for a matching replacement.
 
ok, next step is to get Borax and get the pH up. I'll add 152 oz.

I feel like I am getting just enough knowledge to be really dangerous, so more questions:

1. At what point do I start the actual SLAM process?

2. At this point, how many hours a day do I need to run the filter?

3. How often do I test at this point to see what effect the Borax is having?

4. Can I start using the pool vacuum? If yes, is there a link somewhere on how to use it when I will be vacuuming blindly?

THANKS everyone. I'm grilling at the the first pool party and you are all invited. :)
 
I can't imagine clearning all of that out! I think we had a total of 20 toads/frogs - you guys have your hands full and then some! I didn't start our slam until I wasn't getting anything in the leaf rake for 2 days in a row. I was trying to get an much out as I could so the chlorine could do more work. Even after that, the pool still has stuff in the bottom and I am still using the leaf rake till I can get the canister I bought hooked up to vacuum what is left.

I didn't use a vacuum till close to the end of the SLAM and even then I had to backwash every 5-10 minutes and I was slowing down the filter, so I went back to the leaf rake. I didn't want to vacuum to waste unless I had to, so for I haven't yet.
 
Hulligan said:
ok, next step is to get Borax and get the pH up. I'll add 152 oz.

I feel like I am getting just enough knowledge to be really dangerous, so more questions:

1. At what point do I start the actual SLAM process?
I would start the SLAM process after you've removed as much as you can from the pool physically. So more leaf raking and getting out critters. After vacuuming to waste if you do that. Once you start the SLAM, remove your ladders and light and give them a scrubbing with diluted bleach.

2. At this point, how many hours a day do I need to run the filter?
I'd run the filter at least for 4-6 hours per day, just to keep things moving, not stagnant and have it running any time you're stirring things up. Once you start the SLAM, run it 24/7.

3. How often do I test at this point to see what effect the Borax is having?
Once you add the borax, be sure to circulate for at least an hour afterward. When you add it, broadcast around the outside of the pool, mostly in the path of return water flow and brush or leaf rake everywhere near the bottom of the pool after you've added it all. You can probably start with less than the full amount from Pool Math, maybe half, then you can test the pool 1 hour after you've swept/raked.

4. Can I start using the pool vacuum? If yes, is there a link somewhere on how to use it when I will be vacuuming blindly?
You can vacuum when you feel you've gotten as much as you can with the raking. Have you been watching your filter pressure and backwashing when your filter pressure rises 20% from the "clean" pressure? If there is alot of sediment on the bottom, I would vacuum with your multiport valve set to Waste. This means that all water being sucked in your skimmers, main drain and vacuum head will be pushed out your Waste line and not go through the filter. Depending on your flow and how long you vacuum, this could drain alot of water out of your pool and out wherever the waste line leads, but it will save your filter from getting too full of gunk that you'll have to backwash out later. If you vacuum to Waste, you may want to hold off on adding borax as essentially you'd be wasting some chemicals by sucking that water out of the pool to Waste.

THANKS everyone. I'm grilling at the the first pool party and you are all invited. :)
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See red text.
 
I think we have gotten most of the leaves and wildlife out. The leaf rake is pulling up sludge---lots of it. And, most of it is just going thru the rake before we can pull it out. So we are actually just stirring up stuff. Any advice on how to remove sludge that goes thru netting?

Thanks!
 
I'm torn on what to tell you here... you have options that I can think of.

1. Try to vacuum the sludge to WASTE. This may work if the sludge isn't too thick or too much at one time. However, your pool pump is not designed to pump sludge. You may end up clogging a suction line or burning up the pump in a worst case scenario.
2. Rent a pump designed to handle sludge/slurry type liquids. This may be expensive and may or may not be available at a rental store or big box hardware near you.
3. Drain the pool and manually scoop out the sludge. This might be the only option if it's very thick sludge, maybe a last resort if the rent-a-pump doesn't work. You'll risk shifting the liner when it is completely empty. Depending on the water table around the pool, you have to be concerned about the pool wall structure itself when there is no hydrostatic pressure from the weight of the pool pressing against the walls, preventing problems with the pool wall itself.

I think 2 is the best option based on the quantity of sludge you're describing. It's the safest and doesn't risk damaging your pool equipment or underground plumbing. You could try 1 but I would go VERY easy on the vacuuming, going extremely slow and stopping frequently, vacuuming some unsludged water to clear the system. Have someone monitoring the pump basket and pump for problems. 1 is certainly the most risky, 3 involves the most time and need to replace lots of water but remember, unless your in CA or other areas with extreme water rationing, regulation or high pricing, water is CHEAP.
 

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We ran the vacuum for about 15 min with it set to waste. Filter basket was completely clogged pretty quickly, so I think we'll not try that again for a while. Could a leaf canister handle something like that?
 
Technically I think my little Pool Blaster Max vacuum could handle it but it would take forever and a day. I wonder if a leaf canister could do a similar job but with a slightly larger capacity. My poor vacuum would only hold a few cups of stuff at a time. :(
 
So, what is your ground water table like? Is ground water a danger? Seems like the best option might be to rent a pump that can pump out that sludge and refill. Since it strains through a leaf net it should be able to be pumped out, I've pumped some funky stuff out of some ponds with 2-3 hp sump pumps.
How full is the pool? Does the sludge mix in with the water so it can be diluted? If ground water is a concern maybe partial drains and refills are in order. One concern is that the amount of chlorine that could be required to clear this could bleach the liner.
 
If you run the leaf rake through it enough there will be way less stuff to clog the strainer basket, and vacuuming will be more practical.

Another option is to get a syphon going with the vacuum hose and "vacuum" directly to some nearby low spot (needs to be well below the level of the surface of the water). This is done with just the vacuum hose and no pump, so it can handle a fair amount of debris. But there needs to be some nearby low spot to release the water to.
 
Oh my....you win for the first swamp thread to make me squeamish (I'm a nurse and that just doesn't happen often!). Critters...dead, spongy, slimy, goo covered critters.

Best of luck with this and I can hardly wait to see pictures of clear blue, sparkling water (sans critters)! Welcome! :wave:
 
Looked at the home Depot site. $60 per day for a 2" trash pump. Not sure if that includes any hoses but not a bad price for an option that should work to pump sludge. Could duct tape the suction end of the hose to a pool pole and get to work!

# Sent from mobile device. Beware of brevity and spelling errors!
 
Harbor freight has a trash pump for 299 that will pump solid pieces up to .9 inches.. If you sign up for a mailer I think you could get 15% off any 1 purchase..

Unless you needed it for something else or could use the engine later I think home depot or lowes would be a cheaper option...

http://www.harborfreight.com/65-hp-212cc-3-in-gas-engine-full-trash-pump-264-gpm-69746.html

Passes solids to 0.9 in. thick
264 GPM
Total head lift: 85 ft.
Suction head lift: 26 ft.

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