Just added new Jandy Aqua Pure PLC 1400

[SpringPool]

I decided to go full automation and added the Jandy Aqua Pure PLC 1400.

Since I already had the Aqua Link Power center I found the control components for the SWG and added them to the center to turn it into a Pure Link Power center. Had I realized last year when the pool was built that I could have had the PB buy the Pure Link center for $300 more I would have had him do that instead.

I balance my pool and then added the salt. After that I installed the SWG. I made one mistake and added all 8 bags of salt at once. When the SWG started up it read 4100 PPM.

So Lesson learned don’t add all the salt at once! I was using new test strips that read 700.

i wanted to go to 3000 to be conservative because the strips are +-400. After adding the salt and installing the swg the readout read 4100ppm. The next 3 test strips read 3200. In hindsight I should have kept 2 bags in reserve. So the pool got drained by 10% now the swg reads 3800.

Using the SWG calculator I’ve been fine tuning the % and running the pump at 800 rpm for 12 hours a day.

Is it normal for a new cell to over produce? Or my current chlorine demand is less than I thought but the pool gets full sun, has a water temp of 88 and it’s been hot out (98 yesterday)

Yesterday morning I tested the Chlorine level it was 4.0. I tested again last night I was at 4.5. I ran the SWG at 27% which should have produced 1 ppm of chlorine. Having just a .5 burn rate seems low to me.

 

[ping]

It could very well be producing more chlorine than the projected amount as it is new, just keep a close eye on the FC level.

Do you happen to know how much chlorine the pool was using before you turned on the SWG?

In the future when adding salt make sure the SWG is off so it doesn't see a high salinity boost. You will want to run the pump for 24 hours before turning on the SWG to make sure the salt is dissolved.

 

[SpringPool]

It really just started getting hot here in the past few days but about 1 ppm a day. The pool isn’t s year old so I don’t have run time from last May but in Sept I was at 1.5-2 ppm a day.

I’ll be testing daily to dial it in and more than likely will test Morning and evening every few days to see what my loss is.

I don’t think I’ll need salt for a while now but I will make sure to zero out the swg and run for 24 hours before turning it back on.

 

[PoolGate]

My FusionSoft 1400 is the same generator as your PLC1400. I also had a larger than expected chlorine output when I started using it. At one point I got up to 15 parts. I am at 60% right now which maintains around 4-5 parts chlorine in my 29k gallon pool. I run it 24x7. I test chlorine daily when I use the pool and at least every other day when I am not using it and adjust the output accordingly. A SWCG is not really a set and forget component.

I don't think it will hurt to have salt at 4100 btw you just may have a bit saltier water to the taste. Get the K-1766 Taylor salt test kit.

 

[SpringPool]

The threshold for this swg is 4000 so it shuts off. I did just find an article on recalibrating the sensor but first to get the test kit and compare to the strips. I may even bring the water to the pool store for kicks.

 

[SpringPool]

Alright. After 2 weeks, my salt snafu (thanks test strips) and 2 rainy days I have a balanced pool!

I’m running the vs pump at 800 rpm for 12 hours during the day and the cell at 27%. For 1 ppm of FC. As it gets hotter and demand goes up so will my %

Recieved my salt drop test kit today and it’s reporting within 100ppm of the SWG. Tried 2 more test stips and both off by 1000 ppm. The rest went in the trash.

The numbers

Temp 86 m
FC - 4
CC - 0
Ph - 7.4 (I was lowering my TA and am expecting it to drift back to 7.6-7.8)

TA - 60
BOR- 30
CH - 400
CYA - 70
Salt - 3500
CSI - (-0.5)
Temp 87

Once Ph rises the CSI should stable out around -0.25. Also I’m expecting the water temp to rise to the low 90’s next week. Looking at the weather we’re in for 95+ degree days all week

so if you made it this far I have two question. Is there a rule of thumb on when to increase pump time vs increasing %?

Are there benefits from running a cell at a lower % than say 75% or 100%?

 

[PoolGate]

Alright. After 2 weeks, my salt snafu (thanks test strips) and 2 rainy days I have a balanced pool!

I’m running the vs pump at 800 rpm for 12 hours during the day and the cell at 27%. For 1 ppm of FC. As it gets hotter and demand goes up so will my %

Recieved my salt drop test kit today and it’s reporting within 100ppm of the SWG. Tried 2 more test stips and both off by 1000 ppm. The rest went in the trash.

The numbers

Temp 86 m
FC - 4
CC - 0
Ph - 7.4 (I was lowering my TA and am expecting it to drift back to 7.6-7.8)

TA - 60
BOR- 30
CH - 400
CYA - 70
Salt - 3500
CSI - (-0.5)
Temp 87

Once Ph rises the CSI should stable out around -0.25. Also I’m expecting the water temp to rise to the low 90’s next week. Looking at the weather we’re in for 95+ degree days all week

so if you made it this far I have two question. Is there a rule of thumb on when to increase pump time vs increasing %?

Are there benefits from running a cell at a lower % than say 75% or 100%?

I run my pump 24x7 so I am always generating chlorine. You don't need to run it 24x7 but I run it at 1200 rpms which uses around 100 watts of power so I just leave it on all the time. Currently it is at 55%. As long as you can maintain the proper chlorine to cya ratio all the time you will be ok. Do you measure first thing in the morning to see what level you have? I do my testing in the morning. You should be running at minimum 3 and recommended 5 parts chlorine btw. 800 is a bit low rpm since we both have the same unit I know from experimentation that 800 is the bare minimum for the flow switch to close. Sometimes at 800 mine won't run. I also get a lot of hydrogen bubbles in my plumbing when running slow that all comes out at once when I ramp up the pump flow.