@Roox911 refer to post #10 for link to rebuild kit for the Jandy valve if you wish to that way when you disassemble it to rotate the cover per recommendations.
Jets on sidewall above waterline
- Thread starter Roox911
- Start date
- May 27, 2021
- 1,343
- Pool Size
- 17000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
In looking at the valve I believe it’s going to be a barrel of monkeys when OP gets it opened. All indicators point to someone being in there before and performing poor work (cover is 180 degrees out of original design while the valve next to it is 100% factory, grease cup cover is missing with silicone sealing the hole, the valve next to it is 100% in tact.)
OP,
I agree with Placid. It may not go back together quite right. It doesn't make any sense, the way it was reinstalled by the previous goof. It makes me suspicious they were trying to seal the grease port with the diverter.
Having extra o-rings and a replacement grease cap on hand would be a good idea. You can get them in a kit for your Jandy valve. One is a larger one that seals the perimeter of the lid and several smaller ones that seal the stem.
If you do decide to open that can of worms, this will be a 2-part process and the 2nd part is critical.
1) Do as others have suggested and rotate the *lid* of the valve 180°.
2) Do not rotate handle with the lid. The diverter (the hidden piece inside that valve) needs to remain in its current position.
Your best bet is to remove the set screw in the middle of that handle so you can lift the handle high enough to permit manual rotation of the lid, but while keeping the handle attached to the stem and keeping it in the same orientation as in your photo. You want the handle to remain parallel with your inlet and on the same side. I.E. if you considered your inlet pipe as 12-o-clock, the handle remains at or close to 12-o-clock as well.
Then report to us if the flow is still persisting at the fan jets.
I agree with Placid. It may not go back together quite right. It doesn't make any sense, the way it was reinstalled by the previous goof. It makes me suspicious they were trying to seal the grease port with the diverter.
Having extra o-rings and a replacement grease cap on hand would be a good idea. You can get them in a kit for your Jandy valve. One is a larger one that seals the perimeter of the lid and several smaller ones that seal the stem.
If you do decide to open that can of worms, this will be a 2-part process and the 2nd part is critical.
1) Do as others have suggested and rotate the *lid* of the valve 180°.
2) Do not rotate handle with the lid. The diverter (the hidden piece inside that valve) needs to remain in its current position.
Your best bet is to remove the set screw in the middle of that handle so you can lift the handle high enough to permit manual rotation of the lid, but while keeping the handle attached to the stem and keeping it in the same orientation as in your photo. You want the handle to remain parallel with your inlet and on the same side. I.E. if you considered your inlet pipe as 12-o-clock, the handle remains at or close to 12-o-clock as well.
Then report to us if the flow is still persisting at the fan jets.
ok, so before i read this great advice - i just undid the set screw and flipped the handle 180 degrees - leaving the lid and not touching anything internal.
Sure enough now I can control the jets - full flow to either the return jets or the fan jets or anything in between.
So thats great news! Like you and placid mentioned, not sure i want to get into that can of worms by cracking it open.
Next step is finding something other than 1" eyeballs for the fan jets
You'll just need to be aware that on the rotational path to select the wall return vs the fan jets, you're damming the return flow of water. This is called "deadheading" and is hard on your pump.
I've personally seen a client deadhead a brand new feature pump for so long, is ballooned a 2" PVC tee before it literally blew the line apart. I'll see if I can find a picture of the tee.
You'll need to move it quickly to ensure you never have the handle at 6-o-clock for more than a second.
I'd still suggest ordering an o-ring kit and rotating the whole lid. If your grease port isn't leaking now, then they weren't trying to seal it with the diverter. The cost of the kit is way, way less than the alternatives if someone other than you inadvertently closes off that return line by mistake for any real length of time.
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also good to know. i totally would have done that, just by playing around. i'll leave it wide open to the return jets, and buy a rebuild kit today. cheers!
Good plan!
Let us know if you run into any trouble with it. Should be pretty cut and dried though.