Jandy Valve Still Leaking after replacing O-rings

[patricknewborn]

There is a 3-way port that is just above my pump with a pipe that comes down to the ground attached to a waste hose for lowering my pool level and I noticed a few weeks ago water has been dripping from near the hose. In the 3 years I've had the pool I've probably only used the waste line 3 times and 2 of those were fairly recently so it was probably from recent activity after being dormant for years before me. So I unhooked it the hose and realized that the 3-way Jandy valve must be leaking very slowly.

So I bought an o-ring repair kit and replaced it, I was amazed at how difficult it was to do right. Despite doing the alternating pattern of screwing it back on and everything looking very tightly sealed to my eye once the pump was primed it leaked like crazy. But after several tries I got it tight with no more leaking around the valve and the waste pipe no longer seemed to leak.

Fast forward about a week later and I noticed a leak again by the waste hose, like before very slow like a single drop of water every 20 seconds or so. So do I now need to replace my diverter valve or did I mess up my o-ring replacement?

 

[kadavis]

Depending on the model valve you have you might want to buy a diverter kit. Since you already replaced the o ring kit, you would only need the diverter

 

[Arizonarob]

Did you use Magic lube on the o-rings when you replaced them? If not, then get another kit and the lube and do over. Those valves are so easy to rebuild and unless there is a hairline crack in it, a rebuild works 99% of the time.

~Rob

 

[patricknewborn]

Did you use Magic lube on the o-rings when you replaced them? If not, then get another kit and the lube and do over. Those valves are so easy to rebuild and unless there is a hairline crack in it, a rebuild works 99% of the time.

~Rob

I did, I purchased a new kit and did the lube over. But it still seems to be leaking as before. I think I left out an important detail, it's not leaking around the face of the port handle or screws, the water is dripping down the waste pipe which tells me it's leaking from around the diverter itself or maybe the gray pvc around it has a small crack? I took a close look at the diverter when I took it out and didn't see a crack in it, the surprising part is the leak is no slower or faster than before!

As an aside, what the heck and am I doing wrong when I tighten this thing up? This go round, I had to do it like 5 times to get it right, the first 4 times no matter how tight everything looked it would leak like crazy until I got it right, I tried to go in a star pattern too.

I'm tempted to not even mess with it since the leak is so slow and not getting worse but it's bothersome that it's leaking at all.

 

[Arizonarob]

When you get a chance, snap a few pics of the setup and post them.
If it’s not leaking from around the seal, then either there is a hairline crack, or the glue has gone bad in one spot. A lot of people when working with pvc don’t deburr the ends, and what happens is when the pipe is inserted, it pushes the glue to the back of the fitting.
It may last a few years, but eventually, it fails.

 

[patricknewborn]

Hear are some pictures, you can't see in the open pipe very well but there's a little river of water slowly making its way down.

 

[Arizonarob]

Ok, now I can see what you are referring to. For some reason I couldn’t picture your setup.

Anyway, I suspect that the o-ring on the diverter has gone bad. So you would need to grab a new diverter for that valve as I’m pretty sure those o-rings are non-replaceable.

 

[proavia]

Also, be aware - that is not a Jandy brand valve. Be sure you are getting parts/seals from the correct manufacturer.

I think that's a Pentair valve - but can't quite make out the name on the handle.

 

[PoolguyinCT]

Also, be aware - that is not a Jandy brand valve. Be sure you are getting parts/seals from the correct manufacturer.

I think that's a Pentair valve - but can't quite make out the name on the handle.

It’s Pentair

 

[kadavis]

Also when you have open make sure no glue is in the area where the seal sits

 

[patricknewborn]

Ok, now I can see what you are referring to. For some reason I couldn’t picture your setup.

Anyway, I suspect that the o-ring on the diverter has gone bad. So you would need to grab a new diverter for that valve as I’m pretty sure those o-rings are non-replaceable.

Mmm I'm confused, I replaced the two shaft o-rings (#8 in the picture) and the cover o-ring (#6 in the picture). I'm not sure where is there another o-ring? Sorry for the stupid question.

 

[kadavis]

He's referring to the seal that is on the diverter, non replaceable. Can you take a picture of the diverter, as I previously posted you may have to replace this part

 

[PoolGate]

Worst case scenario you could always glue a ball valve on the end of your diverter pipe with another short segment coming out of that.

 

[kilimar]

He's referring to the seal that is on the diverter, non replaceable. Can you take a picture of the diverter, as I previously posted you may have to replace this part

Dumb, question, why is that diverted seal/gasket/o-ring, not replaceable? Why don't they make it replaceable?

I took 4 Jandy valves apart last night in the cold rain. I was thinking it was clogged with a frog (twice this past week, I found smartphone sized ones) or something because the pump would not prime... turns out I had dropped the o-ring on the strainer assembly. Anyway, when I took the Jandy valves apart, on some of them I found quite a bit of mineral build-up on the valves. Normally gray plastic was coated in a yellowish/whitish mineral. The minerals would come off when I scratched them with my fingernails. Some parts were quite thick, 1-2mm. On 2 of them I found that the gasket had worked itself slightly loose and when I turned the valve, it sliced a bit off (1" long by 1-2 mm) but hung on a bit. All the valves work fine except that I need to lube them and add more silicone grease to the grease cups.

 

[Arizonarob]

Because it is adhered to the plastic diverter.

 

[xpert66]

I know this is an old thread but wanted to comment in case others have the same issue. I have 2 jandy 3 way valves that I installed before the pump and after the filter. I added a stub piece with removeable cap to keep dirt, bugs out. I use the valves when I clean my pump and the blow out my lines in the winter. That port always leaks on both my 2 valves. I even try to postion the diverter to make sure it's centered correctly. I called Jandy today and they told me it is normal. I am asumming Pentair valves would have the same issue??

 

[PoolGate]

These valves are not designed for this use. You should add something else at the end like a ball valve or even a hose spigot.

 

[xpert66]

These valves are not designed for this use. You should add something else at the end like a ball valve or even a hose spigot.

I understand the ball valve but trying to understand why and how a hose spigot?

 

[xpert66]

These valves are not designed for this use. You should add something else at the end like a ball valve or even a hose spigot.

And what exactly are you referring to as not designed for this use? Thanks

 

[proavia]

And what exactly are you referring to as not designed for this use? Thanks

A very small amount of water may leak into the closed port. In the case of a backwash pipe or other open ended pipe, a little bit of water may seep from the open pipe when only a Jandy type valve is used.

If the pipe is open, it may be best to place a ball valve between the Jandy type valve and the open end of the pipe to prevent any seepage.