Jandy Valve Problems

[wgmamc11]

Hi, I have two problems with my 3-way Neverlube valves, and I'd appreciate the voice of experience before I start replacing parts.
First, on my return valve, I replaced the diverter with an Amazon brand part, and the shaft & lid o-rings with genuine Jandy parts. I have a leak between the body and the lid that didn't stop with new o-rings. The diverter does not sit in the body vertically, which seems to be due to a thicker diverter seal than the one I removed. Is this normal (and my old one was worn down) or is it an out-of-spec Amazon part? The diverter sits at an angle (see pic) and has to be pulled vertical with the lid when installing.
Second, on my suction valve, the actuator does not turn (or try to turn) when it is around freezing, either with the controller or using the switch manually. The diverter will turn manually with the handle, so it's not stuck. The actuator will try to turn back if it is on and the diverter is manually moved out of it's 'final' position. Could this be a problem with the microswitch or the gearing that I could repair, or do I just need to replace the whole actuator? Anyone seen it before?
Thanks for any help as always.

 

[Jimrahbe]

11,

Let's see what @1poolman1 has to say.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[1poolman1]

Hi, I have two problems with my 3-way Neverlube valves, and I'd appreciate the voice of experience before I start replacing parts.
First, on my return valve, I replaced the diverter with an Amazon brand part, and the shaft & lid o-rings with genuine Jandy parts. I have a leak between the body and the lid that didn't stop with new o-rings. The diverter does not sit in the body vertically, which seems to be due to a thicker diverter seal than the one I removed. Is this normal (and my old one was worn down) or is it an out-of-spec Amazon part? The diverter sits at an angle (see pic) and has to be pulled vertical with the lid when installing.
Second, on my suction valve, the actuator does not turn (or try to turn) when it is around freezing, either with the controller or using the switch manually. The diverter will turn manually with the handle, so it's not stuck. The actuator will try to turn back if it is on and the diverter is manually moved out of it's 'final' position. Could this be a problem with the microswitch or the gearing that I could repair, or do I just need to replace the whole actuator? Anyone seen it before?
Thanks for any help as always.

When replacing O rings or a complete diverter, I always wrap the new rings with a turn or two if Teflon tape after lubing the rings, then lube on the tape as well. Seems to eliminate problems. Many times the socket in the lid is also worn from lack of lubrication and that little bit of tape seems to take up the space and eliminate leaks.
Have never seen an actuator not work in freezing weather (we're getting that here right now). If it isn't affecting both actuators it indicates the one that won't work may actually have water in it that has frozen, or perhaps the grease on the gears has.
Those motors rely on the gear ratio to turn the stem, not the kind of torque you can input manually.

 

[wgmamc11]

Ok, thanks. I’ll try adding Teflon tape to the o-rings and disassembling the actuator once it warms up.

 

[generessler]

On the "won't move" problem.... When that happens, you could try opening the actuator to have a look at the gears. If there's frozen moisture there, it could easily be stopping the low torque (motor) end of the gear train. I saw another TFPer say that a Jandy valve was now and then spraying water upward out of the valve stem and past the actuator's bottom seal, so the gear housing was a puddle. I know you've replace o-rings, but seems worth checking.