I have a Jandy Aquapure about 7 years old. I am getting a %chlorine and then flashing "LO". The sensor is just flashing Green with a No Flow reading. I have cleaned the cell, taken off the sensor to make sure nothing covering, cleaned all baskets and so on. Still "no flow" and flashing green. Had a very unusual salinity reading of 4100 and have been flushing and adding water, down to 3700. Is there a way to tell if the sensor is bad?
Jandy salt water sensor bad?
- Thread starter brooknc
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,821
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
See page 19-20 in https://images.inyopools.com/cloud/documents/jandy-aqua-pure-error-codes.pdf
www.troublefreepool.com
Here is a test you can do to diagnose the trisensor.
Disconnect the flow salinity temp sensor from the board.
Press and hold the test buttons marked salinity and R-temp. While still pressing the test buttons press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 2.8 gpl*.
While still holding the two front board test buttons press the ‘Pool Temperature’ key (‘D’). It should read 75° F or 24° C.
Next, press and hold the board ‘H-Temp’ test button, and at the same time press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) together with the ‘Chlorine Production Rate’ arrow down key (‘A’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 91° F or 33° C .
If the readings are correct then the board is O.K. and the problem is with the flow sensor. On the other hand if the readings are different then it indicates that there is a problem with the board.
Jandy AquaPure SWG - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Here is a test you can do to diagnose the trisensor.
Disconnect the flow salinity temp sensor from the board.
Press and hold the test buttons marked salinity and R-temp. While still pressing the test buttons press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 2.8 gpl*.
While still holding the two front board test buttons press the ‘Pool Temperature’ key (‘D’). It should read 75° F or 24° C.
Next, press and hold the board ‘H-Temp’ test button, and at the same time press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) together with the ‘Chlorine Production Rate’ arrow down key (‘A’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 91° F or 33° C .
If the readings are correct then the board is O.K. and the problem is with the flow sensor. On the other hand if the readings are different then it indicates that there is a problem with the board.
Thank you!!! I did all of the above and got the below readings, I guess indicating a board issue.
3.2GPL
74 F
90 F
3.2GPL
74 F
90 F
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,821
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Jandy AquaPure 1400 Replacement Cell, 40,000 Gal Pool, 16ft Cord, Tri-Sensor - Model PLC1400 - INYOPools.com
Replacement Salt Cell for the Jandy Purelink Chlorinator
www.inyopools.com
‘LO’ – indicates that the water temperature reading is less than 51 deg. F
This indicates that the trisensor is probably bad.
If the cell is 7 years old, I would replace the cell, trisensor and cord.
This indicates that the trisensor is probably bad.
If the cell is 7 years old, I would replace the cell, trisensor and cord.
Thanks guys. I replaced the cell last year, so should be good on that. This would be 3rd sensor, so makes sense.
