Jandy salt reading not correct

[SecoSteve]

Moved from here.
Don't want to hijack this thread, but having an issue with my brand new Jandy 1400. My Taylor K-1766 gives 2600ppm of my pool water. The display on the Jandy says 3.3(3300ppm?). I took a sample to the pool store for another opinion and their result was 2550. Per the pool company, they said as long as the display is between 3.0 and 3.5, start up the SWG. So, last night I turned it on to 100%, per the manual, and this morning I'm +3ppm in FC(3 to 6).

I'm just under 25,000(24,684 according to the PB) gallons and have added 440lbs of salt Monday through Wednesday, which along with the 600ppm already present in the water should give a reading of 2730ppm. Should I recalibrate a brand new salt system that appears high by about 600ppm? I can certainly taste the salt when I was in on Wednesday.

 

[PoolGate]

Don't want to hijack this thread, but having an issue with my brand new Jandy 1400. My Taylor K-1766 gives 2600ppm of my pool water. The display on the Jandy says 3.3(3300ppm?). I took a sample to the pool store for another opinion and their result was 2550. Per the pool company, they said as long as the display is between 3.0 and 3.5, start up the SWG. So, last night I turned it on to 100%, per the manual, and this morning I'm +3ppm in FC(3 to 6).

I'm just under 25,000(24,684 according to the PB) gallons and have added 440lbs of salt Monday through Wednesday, which along with the 600ppm already present in the water should give a reading of 2730ppm. Should I recalibrate a brand new salt system that appears high by about 600ppm? I can certainly taste the salt when I was in on Wednesday.

The tests have a -+ of 400ppm. So you are within your test variance. Go with the Taylor results. Your SWG reading doesn't matter as long as it is within the SWG's working range.

 

[SecoSteve]

The tests have a -+ of 400ppm. So you are within your test variance. Go with the Taylor results. Your SWG reading doesn't matter as long as it is within the SWG's working range.

If so, then my issue would be that my display will probably shut off the system if I add salt(+400ppm) to get to 3000ppm according to the K-1766. The Jandy will probably then read 3700ppm(3.7). I'm worried if I leave it at 2600ppm that I may be running the SWG with too low salt. Should I just leave it as is, add salt, or calibrate?

Thanks, much appreciated!

 

[PoolGate]

Right now, mine is reading 3700 parts even though it tests out at 3000 with the K-1766. I think many of these just read high. I would add salt until you read 3000ppm on the K-1766. I believe there is a way to recalibrate the salt sensor. What is your water temperature? The reading will go down and the temperature goes up in the pool. My pool is at 77 right now if I were to increase it to 88 I know my salt reading of the SWG will drop to probably 3400.

 

[SecoSteve]

Right now, mine is reading 3700 parts even though it tests out at 3000 with the K-1766. I think many of these just read high. I would add salt until you read 3000ppm on the K-1766. I believe there is a way to recalibrate the salt sensor. What is your water temperature? The reading will go down and the temperature goes up in the pool. My pool is at 77 right now if I were to increase it to 88 I know my salt reading of the SWG will drop to probably 3400.

I'm at 83 degrees now. At 3700ppm, doesn't the SWG read too high salt?

 

[PoolGate]

Even though brand-new try cleaning the tri-sensor and see what it reads. And take another test with the K-1766 to confirm. Perhaps your salt was not 100% dissolved and it actually is higher than you think. I use the speedstir for my salt test if you don't have that make sure you are thoroughly mixing the silver nitrate or else it will read too low. If all else fails, contact the builder or Jandy directly.

 

[JamesW]

Disconnect the flow salinity temp sensor from the circuit board.

Press and hold the test buttons marked salinity and R-temp. While still pressing the test buttons press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 2.8 gpl*.

While still holding the two front board test buttons press the ‘Pool Temperature’ key (‘D’). It should read 75° F or 24° C.

Next, press and hold the board ‘H-Temp’ test button, and at the same time press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) together with the ‘Chlorine Production Rate’ arrow down key (‘A’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 91° F or 33° C .

If the readings are correct then the system is probably working correctly.