Jandy Pool Heater problems

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J

Jameso78

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Sep 18, 2020
57
North Texas
Pool Size
45000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Jandy Aquapure 1400
Moved from here.
Hello - I did not see any final resolution on this thread ... My 14 yr old LT400 just began this weekend having the same symptoms after working great for the past couple months... I set the temp to 104, it heats to 98 and shuts off... when it cools down past 96, it comes back on and heats to 98 again... it had been going to 104 with no issue... from reading above it sounds like it could be one of the limit switches, they both have not been replaced... I did have the control board rebuilt by BPengineering last summer, so I don't think its the issue...looking for advice clues...
 
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Ok... I did remove both my limit sensors, they both had a little bit of corrosion, but not bad... I cleaned both and reinstalled them, but did not make a difference in the symptoms I’m experiencing... was wondering I might have a bad temperature sensor? I did remove and reinstall it a couple weeks back while I was overhauling my backwash valve, but it looked OK... like other parts I haven’t replaced or repaired, it’s 14+ years old too... thoughts anyone?
 
Update... I was able to verify my water temp showing on the Jandy RSLink PDA with a thermometer. It seemed to be accurate (52.7 on the thermometer, 53 on the PDA remote)... so I tried what member ntxpool (Mike) did back in 2012...

The Jandy/Laars LT400 has a control panel with a temp dial for "Pool" and one for "Spa". Since my LT400 is wired to the Aqua RS control center via a two wire hookup, those two dials really do nothing more than set an upper cutoff temp....the RS center tells it when to turn on via it's own temp sensors. My LT400 has always been set on the "SPA" side of control (but it doesn't matter....again, it's functioning in very basic "heat on/off" mode)....

Just for grins, i switched the heat mode to "Pool" on the LT400 (not be confused with changing to "Pool Heat" on the RS control.....that would change the valve configuration). Temp so far has stayed fine with the heat cycling on/off/on just like it should.

Looks like a bad potentiometer on the Spa dial of my control board... the Pool side worked like it should, let me go to 104 with no issue... so I'll live with that for a while and see what happens...

Cheers...James
 
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James, I am having same issue. Heats fine. But will only get to 91. I don't have the RS on my system. Just manual dials. I removed the lock stop on the dial and was able to turn the spa a little more and now get upto 98. But I would rather fix it right and get it up to 100+ Can I change the potentiometer on the spa dial? Or what do you suggest?

Thanks,
Coach
 
Hey Coach... I haven't been on in a while, just now reading your post... My "pool" side is now doing the same as the "spa" side did, with my max temperature now only 97 when it shuts off... I looked at my control board, replacing the potentiometers isnt something I would tackle myself, they are soldered to the integrated circuit board, and I'm afraid I'd mess it up...I am going to reach out to BPelectronics.com, he serviced my board last year when I was just getting my heater going again after being idle/unused for many years...stay tuned
 
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