Jandy LXi - Fault FuseLink / Field

Jun 6, 2018
7
Charlotte, NC
Hi,

I know there's other threads about this topic but they seem pretty old and I was wondering specifically about a couple questions that were asked which I didn't see an answer to.

#1 is this post and the question was "While i look to replace that Fuselink as a first stop, can I also bypass it to confirm those wires are good"

Here's why I'm asking.. I was getting this error after the heater being on for about 7 seconds or so. It would turn on again later but then stop with that same "Fault FuseLink / Field" error on the display.

I tried replacing this part with this one from Amazon. I should have read the comments better since the heater worked for maybe a minute and then stopped with the same fuselink error. This time though it won't turn back on again (just says that error message). The comment which I missed was this one:

"I ordered this trying to correct a fusible link error, but this blew in under an hour. This will trip/blow out at 152 Celsius. The fuse that this replaces is further inside the heater and not easily accessible (Jandy LXi) The correct fuse for the exhaust vent should be rated at 260 Celsius. Amazon doesn't have them in stock, but you can find them by going to the Jandy site and getting their parts distributors for your local area and picking it up at retail."

I found what I hope is the correct one and just ordered it now.

But, is there a way to test that this is the issue before replacing it and possibly blowing another one? ie - can I just bypass it and see if the heater runs for a few minutes?

#2 is this post and the question was: "I've seen other threads mention looking at the heat exchange and cleaning out the orifices. I can seem to find any instructions or details on how to access the heat exchange on my LXI. I also took off the vent top but nothing really to shop vac in there."

I've also seen posts about this but never been able to figure out how to do this.. just wondering if someone who's done it before would be willing to post some more info that could help

thanks!
joe
 
DO NOT bypass a safety item. That's what that fusible link is

If you remove the top of the heater you should be able to see into the top of the heat exchanger. There may be baffles laying between the tubes. The fins should not be clogged with soot. If they are, it requires the heater to be dis-assembled to the point the exchanger can be removed and physically cleaned, a very large job.

The orifices are threaded into the gas manifold. The manifold has to be removed in order to clean them out. They will get clogged with spider nests, but that would not cause an overheat condition and cause the fusible link to burn out. Of the two jobs it is much easier, but probably wouldn't solve the problem. DO NOT bypass a safety item.
 
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