Jandy error code 175 and 182

[PoolGate]

I did try Jandy tech support, they could only advise me to try the reset button, or call the pool company.

James can you provide more detail on what you mean by "rewire and reconfigure the settings"?

thx.
Paul

You called for the web/remote access issues? They are usually pretty good about those calls.

Also are you seeing the actual Aqualink connected to your router, or is it an old connection that hasn't dropped out of your router's connection table yet?

 

[rjcasserly]

What is the Software number on the CPU?

If it’s 02110A10 or 01220A15, you use program A, otherwise you use program B on the in-line module on the trisensor cord. Don’t use the little adaptor card between the cord plug and the circuit board.

If that doesn’t work, here is a test you can do.

Disconnect the flow salinity temp sensor from the board.

Press and hold the test buttons marked salinity and R-temp. While still pressing the test buttons press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 2.8 gpl*.

While still holding the two front board test buttons press the ‘Pool Temperature’ key (‘D’). It should read 75° F or 24° C.

Next, press and hold the board ‘H-Temp’ test button, and at the same time press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) together with the ‘Chlorine Production Rate’ arrow down key (‘A’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 91° F or 33° C .

If the readings are correct then the board is O.K. and the problem is with the flow sensor. On the other hand if the readings are different then it indicates that there is a problem with the board.

Hi @JamesW - thanks for posting this. I had a similar problem as the original poster and ran this test - my results were mostly good but 1 degree lower for test #2 and test #3 (74 degrees and 90 degrees). How should I interpret this result? I can even see the results I am supposed to get printed on the PCB in the unit, but I'm not sure if a 1 degree difference means "mostly OK", or it is more binary and the board is bad.

I had an old Aquapure sensor where I fixed a broken wire and it appears to be working now as a temporary replacement, indicating that the sensor was the issue versus the board, but I would appreciate your thoughts here.