Jandy Check valve substantially decreasing flow

[Eldomi809]

Hello,
I have a check valve installed past my heater but i notice that it is substantially decreasing water flow (visibly noticeable in pool). Also when i switch to bypass the heater and check valve I can see the pressure drop 10-15 psi. Any recommendations for a different check valve? Piping is 1 1/2 inch.

 

[Eldomi809]

Apparently this check valve has 2lbs spring. Anyway to get a lesser spring in there or use it without?

 

[PoolStored]

Apparently this check valve has 2lbs spring. Anyway to get a lesser spring in there or use it without?

Never seen alternative springs for a Jandy check valve.

If you snip one of the legs of the spring, should cut the 2lb to 1lb.

What is downstream that you are protecting the heater from?

Is there a vertical column above the valve with 16" of water? If so, you can likely just remove the spring.

 

[Eldomi809]

Never seen alternative springs for a Jandy check valve.

If you snip one of the legs of the spring, should cut the 2lb to 1lb.

What is downstream that you are protecting the heater from?

Is there a vertical column above the valve with 16" of water? If so, you can likely just remove the spring.


View attachment 441366

There isnt anything downstream, just a precaution for times when shocking, beginning of season or end of season water balancing.
It is at an angle slightly upward (because of other pipes/ clearance restrictions) but with about 1 foot before it turns down into pool returns

 

[PoolStored]

There isnt anything downstream, just a precaution for times when shocking, beginning of season or end of season water balancing.
It is at an angle slightly upward (because of other pipes/ clearance restrictions) but with about 1 foot before it turns down into pool returns

Why do you shock your pool? What do you do when you "shock" the pool? When you say beginning/ending of season balancing, what are you doing?

 

[Eldomi809]

Why do you shock your pool? What do you do when you "shock" the pool? When you say beginning/ending of season balancing, what are you doing?

I use about 1 -1.5 bags of 68% hypo cal every 7-9 days to maintain FC (along with pucks in floaters) . Beginning of season usually takes sometime (1-2 days) for the water to be perfectly balanced and at the end of season raise levels to a point where its easier to open next season. Both opening and closing the pool require the water to turn over atleast once and while i do have a bypass i wanted to make sure there was no water going back into the heater when the pump turned off so i went with the check valve as recommended by the manufacturer.

 

[PoolStored]

I use about 1 -1.5 bags of 68% hypo cal to maintain FC (along with pucks in floaters) . Beginning of season usually takes sometime (1-2 days) for the water to be perfectly balanced and at the end of season raise levels to a point where its easier to open next season. Both opening and closing the pool require the water to turn over atleast once and while i do have a bypass i wanted to make sure there was no water going back into the heater when the pump turned off so i went with the check valve as recommended by the manufacturer.

How do you test your water? Tried to look at your poolmath logs, but it throws an error (working behind the scenes to understand that issue). Do you test ch and cya? The Cal Hypo adds CH, tabs add CYA. High levels of either can cause problem. Given your response, should I assume that to you, shocking is adding FC. Do you do that daily? Do you do anything daily?

There is no reason to "shock" a pool. If you maintain enough FC to maintain a sanitizing level of HOCl, you don't need to shock. Two good reads:
Pool Care Basics
FC/CYA Levels

Back to the valve, Can you update your signature, really helps making recommendations. Also, if you could take some pics of your pad.

Create Your Signature - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Eldomi809]

I use the taylor 2006c, i use hypo cal instead of liquid chlorine, test every 2-3 days . Because evaporation my cya has always been around 40 and CH less than 375. Chemistry is good week to week. I just want the check valve as precaution.
Trying to figure out how to keep it or if should just cut it out and put something else

 

[PoolStored]

I use the taylor 2006c, i use hypo cal instead of liquid chlorine, test every 2-3 days . Because evaporation my cya has always been around 40 and CH less than 375. Chemistry is good week to week. I just want the check valve as precaution.
Trying to figure out how to keep it or if should just cut it out and put something else

Claro...

Best I got:
Never seen alternative springs for a Jandy check valve.
With 12" of rise, you may even be able to remove the spring and have it work just fine. Easy to test and non-destructive.
If you snip one of the legs of the spring, should cut the 2lb to 1lb. If you do this, clip the long end on one side, don't snip the loop against the flapper.
CMP and others make 1/2lb spring check valves, but valves are going 80-100
Given your setup, you actually don't need the flapper. I can't see a situation where you would get anything significant backing up into your equipment, pump on or off. Personally I'd just remove the spring or remove the valve.

 

[proavia]

You mentioned a heater bypass. Is it plumbed similar to this:

https://www.troublefreepool.com/wiki/images/9/93/Heater_Bypass_Schematic.jpg

The heater itself adds back pressure and the check valve adds a bit more. If there is no reason to fully bypass the heater, set the Jandy valve to allow water to flow thru the heater and also thru the bypass. This allows some water to flow thru the heater to keep the water in the heater from becoming stagnant and allows most of the water to bypass the heater, thereby keeping the back pressure to a minimum.

Bypass the heater only if you need to take the heater fully offline or you need to have the pH out of the 7's for any reason. Be aware that most heqters require a minimum CH level also.