Jandy Aquapure trouble codes

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AcoldStArnolds79

0
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 4, 2007
45
Houston twin lakes
Pool Size
10000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
On my RS display in the house I have a message to "Check Aquapure". On the Aquapure box outside there is a light for service lit up and two codes come up on the screen. 172 which my manual shows is something to do with the flow sensor. The other code is 186. There is no 186 listed in my manual.

I had the flow sensor replaced about 1.5 years ago because it went out.

I am cleaning the cell as I write this. It had some scale but not an excessive amount.
Anyone know what the 186 code references.

Edit: On the inside it is still displaying the pool temp., the salinity and the Aquapure % setting. All those come off the sensor if I am correct. So is it something other than the sensor?
Last time the sensor went out none of those settings would display.
 
spishex said:
Codes 183-186 are sensor errors which will also cause a 172 error by default. Clean the sensor and restart the unit. Could be a bad sensor or a bad front board.
Click to expand...

Well I cleaned the sensor, even though there was no evident scale or anything on it. The cell is definitely not making chlorine as I woke up to the first signs of algae today. Hit it with a bag of shock and good for now.
Hopefully I can get a service man out early this week. Run out fixes that I can do.
 
Is the unit still under warranty? If not, and you're comfortable opening up the box and doing an easy test on the circuit board you can do this yourself.

On the front board (the one the sensor plugs into) you'll see three buttons on top (R-Temp, H-Temp, and Salinity). Disconnect the flow sensor, then press and hold the salinity and R-temp buttons. While holding them, press the salinity key on the front of the box. It should read 2.8 GPL (could be slightly different if the Salinity has been recalibrated on your unit).

While still holding the back two buttons, press the Pool Temperature key on the front. That should read 75 F or 24 C.

Finally, release the two buttons and then press and hold the H-Temp button. At the same time, press the Salinity and Chlorine Production Down arrow together. The LCD should read 91 F or 33 C.

If you get those readings, you need a new sensor. If the readings are different, you need a new board.
 
This system will be four years old in May so yes the boards, sensor are out of warranty. The cell is warranted for 5 years prorated.
I opened the box up but cannot get the sensor disconnected from the board. Does this plug just pull straight up? Or can I use a pair of pliers to gently persuade it off the board?

I suspect it is the board or either the cell as the sensor is still working and appears to be sending correct readings.
 
Thanks spishex!

I just finished checking my codes as I had a 172, 183 and 184. I checked the board as per the recommendation and the codes are all very similar. They were 74 degrees F instead of 75, 2.7 gpl instead of 2.8 and the LCD read 91. Based on the information, I assume that the problem is the sensor and I need a new one. Does this seem accurate? Is there any way to clean a sensor?

If not, any idea on where I can get a new sensor for a decent price?
Thanks.

David
 
Hi there, know this orginal post is old and the most recent post to it seems to be unanswered.... but Im getting basically the same thing. Started receiving error codes of 172 and 186. Cleaned everything without it helping, when I test as the original post suggests - I get 2.7 instead of 2.8, no problem since he said it might be off a little - I get 74 instead of 75 and 90 instead of 91. Very close, but is it close good enough? Im happy to know its not the cell, assume its the sensor thats bad.
If anyone has advice on that I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks
Mark
 
I just got these codes late yesterday. I pulled the sensor and cleaned it, though it appeared to be fine, reset and still the same codes. Waiting on a call from pool installer now since system is only 26 months old and should be warranty.

Sensors seem to run in price from $144 to $299!!!! So I am guessing I will get hit for about $130 since they will be on the high end.
 

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It's been a few months since the last post, but I'll add my 2 cents. I've got the 172/186 codes now too and a pool that wants to turn green. I'll do the cleaning and all but I imagine it will be the sensor or board or both. When this units finally craps out, I'll will not replace it with a Jandy unit. I've lived here 6 years. The unit was originally the company that jandy bought out and put thier name on the product. ( forgot the original company's name) I've been through 3 cells, a number of circuit boards, three sensors, a transformer and a cord. I just put the new cell, sensor combination unit in this spring. If it hadn't been for ebay deals, I couldn't afford this salt water chlorinator. Of course since I've gotten all my replacement parts off ebay, even though they are brand new, there is no covered warranty. I've basically replace the system twice with new Jandy parts plus a few extras. I did once get a Jandy tech to send me a new sensor by catching him in the office the last part of the day and his defenses were down. For a while, I was able to have conversations with the tech service dept that the pool techs get to call by bluffing that I was an installer. That helped with the trouble shooting.

Does anyone have a suggestion for a Salt water generator system that might be a bit less expensive to maintain? I love this unit when it's working well, but it seems that almost every year, a big ticket item on it craps out. For the $900 plus price tag, this shouldn't be happening.
 
I realize at this point, you're not to fond of Jandy but, they have released a unit in the states that has been out for a couple of years down under with good results. They claim that replacement parts are less expensive, and a better way to monitor the cell (case that encloses the cell is see through). It may be something you want to research.

It is the Jandy Ei.

http://www.jandyei.com/
 
Have you installed any of the new units and if so, any problems yet? I see the salt level has to be about 1000ppm more for it. Seems like the Aquamaid units ran at that level if I recall. I just did the cleaning of the cell and flow sensor today, still same codes. Front board checks out OK, so it seems like the sensor. I still have the old sensor that fists into a pvc "T". It worked when I put the new combo unit in this spring. I may rig a T back in line and see if that will make it work. Hopefully that sensor is still good. You'd think they could figure out how to make a sensor that lasts. The darn thing is sealed and there are no exposed parts. I can remember someone at Jandy's tech service explaining why there are so sensitive.
 
I recently had a "Service" light coming on intermittently but the chlorine level seemed to be just fine. Flushed out the core (which did not really appear dirty) and the Service light continued to come on and off. Bought a new sensor for about $200 and just installed it (very easy to do). While installing the new sensor, I had a chance to inspect the old one - one of the three metal detection points was 50% worn away!

The unit works 24/7 (Florida) so maybe over 2 years of service is not too bad. Didn't enjoy spending the money but the unit now works like new.

You can see a photo of the worn/old sensor by copying and pasting the following URL:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/54379140@N ... hotostream

If you have any questions re: installing a new sensor, just ask!

Richard
 
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