My Aquapure display will beep and then turn off every few minutes. I have already replaced the transformer, the air temp sensor and the salt cell. It doesn’t have any error codes on the screen when it beeps. Any idea what is causing the system to shut off and cycle back on?
Jandy Aquapure loses power after a few minutes
- Thread starter Galonso30
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,173
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Welcome to TFP.
How old is the Aquapure system?
Are you sure no Service Codes are displayed?
What is the salinity displayed and as measured by a test kit?
How old is the Aquapure system?
Are you sure no Service Codes are displayed?
What is the salinity displayed and as measured by a test kit?
The system is about 4 years old. I will have to check when I get home the salinity and get back to you. Thank you for the response.
The salinity is 3.5. The only lights that come on are these in the video which seem to turn on and off with everything in the panel without power.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,173
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Why is the power on the panel cycling on and off? Is that the panel or an artifact of the camera?
Unfortunately its the panel and not the camera. This is what it does when it looses power. I left the CB off for 5 minutes and after switching back the CB, the panel turns on as normal. After about 5 minutes of normal operation the panel loses power again and this is what it looks like. It seems to be getting power but something is putting it into a limp mode of sorts and the lights dance. On the app it shows the system as offline also.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,173
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Okay, let's work on that problem and not the audible alarm.
How old is the Aqualink system?
Do you have a multimeter and know how to check voltages?
Have you opened up the panel and examined the Aqualink board?
Post pics of the Aqualink board when you open it up.
How old is the Aqualink system?
Do you have a multimeter and know how to check voltages?
Have you opened up the panel and examined the Aqualink board?
Post pics of the Aqualink board when you open it up.
The system is 4 years old. Yes I have multimeter and know how to check voltages.
Yes I opened the panel and already replaced the transformer and air temp sensor. Based on my knowledge I didn’t see any damage to the board.
I can get more photos tomorrow if you’re looking for something specific.
Thank you for all your help!
Attachments
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,173
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You have a REV T.2 board, which is fairly recent.
Did the LED cycling begin when you replaced the transformer?
I would label every wire connected to the board and then disconnect all the AUX relays, valve actuators, RS-485 wires, and sensors. See if the board powers up and stays lit with nothing connected to it. Then connect one wire at a time and see if there is a bad device pulling down the board.
Power down the system before disconnecting or connecting any wires.
Did the LED cycling begin when you replaced the transformer?
I would label every wire connected to the board and then disconnect all the AUX relays, valve actuators, RS-485 wires, and sensors. See if the board powers up and stays lit with nothing connected to it. Then connect one wire at a time and see if there is a bad device pulling down the board.
Power down the system before disconnecting or connecting any wires.
Before replacing the transformer nothing had power.
The system runs for a few minutes normally and then shuts off for a few minutes and restarts to normal operation. I don’t see any codes. I will do the exercise you suggested tonight and let you know. Thank you for the suggestion.
I was finally able to test based on your suggestion. I have determined that when the Flow Sensor is unplugged the problem is not recurring and the pump and all the other accessories work as normal except of course the chlorination system. I am getting code 185/186 but is expected because its unplugged. I just replaced the Tri Sensor and Salt Cell but the problem was happening before I replaced these two items.
I read about the Power Center Board Test below and when I followed the steps these are my results:
Step 1 - Result = 3.2(Instead of 2.8)
Step 2 - Result = 73(Instead of 75)
Step 3 - Result = 90(Instead of 91)
Here is a test you can do to diagnose the tri-sensor.
Disconnect the flow salinity temp sensor from the board.
1- Press and hold the test buttons marked salinity and R-temp. While still pressing the test buttons, press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) on the unit's front cover. The LCD should read 2.8 gpl*.
2- While still holding the two front board test buttons, press the ‘Pool Temperature’ key (‘D’). It should read 75° F or 24° C.
3- Next, press and hold the board ‘H-Temp’ test button, and at the same time, press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) together with the ‘Chlorine Production Rate’ arrow down key (‘A’) on the unit's front cover. The LCD should read 91° F or 33° C.
If the readings are correct, then the board is O.K., and the problem is with the flow sensor. On the other hand, if the readings are different, it indicates a problem with the board.
Before I go out and order a new Power Center Board, do you think this is my problem or could it be something else?
I was reading about calibrating the sensor and I am not sure if that is what might be causing the readings to be off.
Again thank you so much for your time.
I read about the Power Center Board Test below and when I followed the steps these are my results:
Step 1 - Result = 3.2(Instead of 2.8)
Step 2 - Result = 73(Instead of 75)
Step 3 - Result = 90(Instead of 91)
Here is a test you can do to diagnose the tri-sensor.
Disconnect the flow salinity temp sensor from the board.
1- Press and hold the test buttons marked salinity and R-temp. While still pressing the test buttons, press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) on the unit's front cover. The LCD should read 2.8 gpl*.
2- While still holding the two front board test buttons, press the ‘Pool Temperature’ key (‘D’). It should read 75° F or 24° C.
3- Next, press and hold the board ‘H-Temp’ test button, and at the same time, press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) together with the ‘Chlorine Production Rate’ arrow down key (‘A’) on the unit's front cover. The LCD should read 91° F or 33° C.
If the readings are correct, then the board is O.K., and the problem is with the flow sensor. On the other hand, if the readings are different, it indicates a problem with the board.
Before I go out and order a new Power Center Board, do you think this is my problem or could it be something else?
I was reading about calibrating the sensor and I am not sure if that is what might be causing the readings to be off.
Again thank you so much for your time.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,173
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
