Jandy Aquapure 700 code 124

[jeld44]

Hi all,

I've been fighting with my Jandy Aquapure 700 for a few months. The system is roughly 12 years old (came with the house) and began spitting out code 121 and 120 (not at the same time). I cleaned the cell multiple times and there is no noticeable buildup of scale and the problem continued. I decided to replace the cell for the first time, but due to sticker shock I went with a generic cell from INYO made by compupool. After I installed the new cell I no longer got codes 121/120 but rather code 124. I then replaced the back circuit board with no luck. When I do the unplug after code 124 trick I get code 123, which indicates a bad cell. I have now replaced that cell through INYO and both of the cells I have tried to use spit out code 124, on both of the working back boards. What else could possibly be going wrong? Any help is much appreciated!

 

[mknauss]

Jandy AquaPure SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Review the above article to see if anything might help.

From Jandy AquaPure Error Codes – INYOPools.com – DIY Resources replacement of the back board was suggested.

 

[jeld44]

Jandy AquaPure SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Review the above article to see if anything might help.

From Jandy AquaPure Error Codes – INYOPools.com – DIY Resources replacement of the back board was suggested.

This is one of the first places I started looking months ago when the problem first cropped up. Nothing seems to jump out at me.

 

[mknauss]

@JamesW === any ideas?

 

[JamesW]

What is the salinity and how are you measuring it?

Is the new cell a 700 or a 1400?

The board needs to be configured for the correct cell type. If the new cell is a 1400 and the board is set to 700, the 124 code would come on indicating high current.

Note: Don't cut the jumper until you are sure about the cell type. It's easy to cut, but hard to put back together.

A mismatch in the cell and board can cause problems.

 

[jeld44]

This board does not look familiar, I'm assuming this is the board for the newer models. I have an older model I believe. The new cell is a 2 port rated for the 700, unless of course they sent the wrong part twice? The system I have best matches what is seen here. The salinity is reading correctly as verified by the pool store at 3100 PPM.

 

[JamesW]

The 700 cell has 2 prongs outside and 7 plates inside.

The 1400 cell has 3 prongs outside and 13 plates inside.

 

[jeld44]

The compupool cell is hard wired so it is difficult to tell. I am waiting for a reply from the seller to make sure they sent the right unit. The wiring going into the back panel is the same, one green wire and two wires (black/white) combined together for the other connection. I’ve also reached out to compupool to see if they have any advice.

 

[JamesW]

How many plates are in the cell?

Check for a jumper on your circuit board.

What is the model number of the cell?

Check the current going to the cell.

 

[jeld44]

How many plates are in the cell?

Check for a jumper on your circuit board.

What is the model number of the cell?

Check the current going to the cell.

There are 7 plates in the cell as far as I can tell. I cannot locate a jumper on either the back or front board. The model number of the cell is Compupool GRC/J12-2. The cell on light only lights up for a fraction of a second, as such no voltage (and current) even goes to the cell after it cuts off. I just don't get how I can go from a low current to the cell using the Jandy cell to a high current to the cell with the generic cell. I cannot seem to figure this out! The cell does remain "on" with the Jandy, but it sure doesn't seem to be generating too much chlorine. Sorry it took so long to reply, it was back to school for this teacher this week...