Jandy Aqualink RS4 or RS8?

[PoolGate]

The main one 200amp

Wow! Your builder saw that and didn't spec out the extra couple hundred for the Aqualink box with the integrated load center? That is almost criminal.

 

[Chess1]

Wow! Your builder saw that and didn't spec out the extra couple hundred for the Aqualink box with the integrated load center? That is almost criminal.

What do you mean “didn’t spec out …”

 

[Chess1]

What do you mean “didn’t spec out …”

He did see it and I was asking him 3 times why we can’t use the 50/50 that I have and he said that’s it’s 220v so for lights he would have to put sub panel to downgrade it. And in the end he is gonna put extra 2 outlets to have outlet in the garden ( the one they cut when digging) and one next to BBQ for $1200. It’s very frustrating when you have a feeling they are over charging and even after I educate myself and tell them they don’t want to see it any other way. What would you do guys in my situation? Appreciate your input!

 

[ajw22]

He did see it and I was asking him 3 times why we can’t use the 50/50 that I have and he said that’s it’s 220v so for lights he would have to put sub panel to downgrade it.

Your builder is a quack electrician.

You run a 50amp 220V circuit with a neutral line and you have both 120V and 220V available in the Load Center.

That wiring is 4 wires - 2 hotwires carrying 120V each, a white neutral wire, and a green ground wire to the load center from a 50AMP CB. The two 120V lines are used for 240V circuits and a single 120V hot line and a neutral is used for a 120V circuit. They can be mixed in the Load Center the same way they are mixed in your CB panel.

 

[ChristopherDB]

What do you mean “didn’t spec out …”

Your 200a service panel is nearly filled with all tandem breakers. Any decent electrician would have looked at this and realized you don't have much room left, and would have installed the larger Jandy load center that had a spot for 12 breakers as ajw22 is mentioning. That Jandy panel would have run to your "50/50" breaker on your 200a panel and anything in your back yard or pool equipment pad could go to the Jandy load center with plenty of space for breakers. If you need more power back there, that "50/50' breaker could be made larger, if you have a large enough gauge wire already ran.

That wasn't originally done so now you got to work with what you have. I'm a little lost in what your original goal was. You mentioned going from an RS4 to RS6. That requires just a new CPU and no extra breakers needed as we've mentioned before. Now, if with that RS6 upgrade you also wanted to use that to control your landscaping lighting, you would just wire a relay to the breaker that controls the lights. You mentioned you have two 2.7hp pumps, one 1.7 hp pump, and led lights. That's 4 relays right there. If your spa has a blower, that's a 5th relay. Your landscape lights would be a 6th relay (if you want to control it from iAqualink). If you have the small Jandy box with only spots for 4 relays, you're out of luck; order a larger one and replace the box with the larger one that give you more slots for relays. Then all you need is a breaker for your landscape lights, which you have 2 more circuits available in your ug412rmw250 pool panel that you could use above your GFCI 50am breaker.

 

[ChristopherDB]

What do you mean “didn’t spec out …”

Your 200a service panel is nearly filled with all tandem breakers. Any decent electrician would have looked at this and realized you don't have much room left, and would have installed the larger Jandy load center that had a spot for 12 breakers as ajw22 is mentioning. That Jandy panel would have run to your "50/50" breaker on your 200a panel and anything in your back yard or pool equipment pad could go to the Jandy load center with plenty of space for breakers. If you need more power back there, that "50/50' breaker could be made larger, if you have a large enough gauge wire already ran, or rerun the appropriate gauge as long as the conduit size it large enough.

That wasn't originally done so now you got to work with what you have. I'm a little lost in what your original goal was. You mentioned going from an RS4 to RS6. That requires just a new CPU and no extra breakers needed as we've mentioned before. Now, if with that RS6 upgrade you want to control your landscaping lighting with, you would just wire a relay to the breaker that controls the lights.

Do you have an existing spa already wired and running, and now you're doing a new pool construction separate from the spa?

 

[Chess1]

He did see it and I was asking him 3 times why we can’t use the 50/50 that I have and he said that’s it’s 220v so for lights he would have to put sub panel to downgrade it. And in the end he is gonna put extra 2 outlets to have outlet in the garden ( the one they cut when digging) and one next to BBQ for $1200. It’s very frustrating when you have a feeling they are over charging and even after I educate myself and tell them they don’t want to see it any other way. What would you do guys in my situation? Appreciate your input!

Your 200a service panel is nearly filled with all tandem breakers. Any decent electrician would have looked at this and realized you don't have much room left, and would have installed the larger Jandy load center that had a spot for 12 breakers as ajw22 is mentioning. That Jandy panel would have run to your "50/50" breaker on your 200a panel and anything in your back yard or pool equipment pad could go to the Jandy load center with plenty of space for breakers. If you need more power back there, that "50/50' breaker could be made larger, if you have a large enough gauge wire already ran, or rerun the appropriate gauge as long as the conduit size it large enough.

That wasn't originally done so now you got to work with what you have. I'm a little lost in what your original goal was. You mentioned going from an RS4 to RS6. That requires just a new CPU and no extra breakers needed as we've mentioned before. Now, if with that RS6 upgrade you want to control your landscaping lighting with, you would just wire a relay to the breaker that controls the lights.

Do you have an existing spa already wired and running, and now you're doing a new pool construction separate from the spa?

Thanks for ur response! No, swim spa is gone to make a place for spa and pool and my Progect manager tells me I need RS 6 and upgrade on 50 to 70 amp on the box that he originally had in contract . The only thing is different from contract is that I want automation. We just did shotctete and heater and plumbing installed and next step is electrical I guess. Original opinion I had aqualink rs4 for $1800 and now I’m pushed to rs 6 with big panel box for $1000 more plus $500 for 70 amp box not 50am ( the contractor has it in the contract as 50 only) plus 2 electrical gang outlets for $1200 to have outlet in the yard and another next to bbq. Hope I explained it well! Thanks

 

[ajw22]

Upgrade from your original 50 amp breaker to 70 amps is replacing the breaker and possibly running a larger gauge wire from the breaker to the Aqualink Load Center.

50 amps or 70 amps does not change any costs in the Aqualink.

I’m pushed to rs 6 with big panel box for $1000 more plus $500 for 70 amp box

You get the RS6 with the Load Center. I do not understand where you have a “70 amp box”. You have a 70 amp circuit breaker in your main panel that feeds directly into the Load Center.

plus 2 electrical gang outlets for $1200 to have outlet in the yard and another next to bbq.

Those can be fed from breakers in the Load Center. The cost depends on the distance and complexity of the wiring.

 

[ChristopherDB]

In addition to what ajw22 said, if the contractor is saying you need to upgrade to 70amps because of the simple request to go from an RS4 to an RS6, this would not be accurate. The need for the additional amperage would only be due to the fact that you want to add an additional circuit for the lights and outlets. If you're using low voltage LED landscape lighting it will probably be connected to a PX300 transformer if close to the pool and consume little power. Ask him if you want to go to RS6 but don't add the outlets if they insist on upgrading from 50 to 70amps.

Is your heater gas or electric? If electric and depending on the size of the heater, plus the 3 pumps that you will be running, that could exceed 50a alone, and the pool builder is attempting to recoup from their mistake. If you have a gas heater you'll have some extra room to work with so send us all the equipment specs and we could do a simple calculation of what amperage breaker you'll need.

 

[Chess1]

Upgrade from your original 50 amp breaker to 70 amps is replacing the breaker and possibly running a larger gauge wire from the breaker to the Aqualink Load Center.

50 amps or 70 amps does not change any costs in the Aqualink.



You get the RS6 with the Load Center. I do not understand where you have a “70 amp box”. You have a 70 amp circuit breaker in your main panel that feeds directly into the Load Center.



Those can be fed from breakers in the Load Center. The cost depends on the distance and complexity of the wiring.

“You get the RS6 with the Load Center. I do not understand where you have a “70 amp box”. You have a 70 amp circuit breaker in your main panel that feeds directly into the Load Center.” I’m sorry if I’m not clear or correct with the tech language, I’m still learning! Thanks for your patience and understanding!

 

[Chess1]

“You get the RS6 with the Load Center. I do not understand where you have a “70 amp box”. You have a 70 amp circuit breaker in your main panel that feeds directly into the Load Center.” I’m sorry if I’m not clear or correct with the tech language, I’m still learning! Thanks for your patience and understanding!

All I wanted is an app on my phone to control pool and spa. My contract includes the 50 amp electrical. They said now I need to bump up to 70amp from 50. I hope it’s clear.

 

[Chess1]

Upgrade from your original 50 amp breaker to 70 amps is replacing the breaker and possibly running a larger gauge wire from the breaker to the Aqualink Load Center.

50 amps or 70 amps does not change any costs in the Aqualink.



You get the RS6 with the Load Center. I do not understand where you have a “70 amp box”. You have a 70 amp circuit breaker in your main panel that feeds directly into the Load Center.



Those can be fed from breakers in the Load Center. The cost depends on the distance and complexity of the wiring.

“50 amps or 70 amps does not change any costs in the Aqualink.” My PM charging me 1k for just upgrade from rs4 to rs6 ( original quote was $1800 for rs4 and whatever it comes with, plus 1k for rs6 because it comes with bigger load center, in my understanding. Plus $500 upgrade to 70 amp box. At this point I want to pay original quote to control my pool from app. And learning the hard way will have to pay 15% restocking fee for the equipment with bigger load center

 

[Chess1]

In addition to what ajw22 said, if the contractor is saying you need to upgrade to 70amps because of the simple request to go from an RS4 to an RS6, this would not be accurate. The need for the additional amperage would only be due to the fact that you want to add an additional circuit for the lights and outlets. If you're using low voltage LED landscape lighting it will probably be connected to a PX300 transformer if close to the pool and consume little power. Ask him if you want to go to RS6 but don't add the outlets if they insist on upgrading from 50 to 70amps.

Is your heater gas or electric? If electric and depending on the size of the heater, plus the 3 pumps that you will be running, that could exceed 50a alone, and the pool builder is attempting to recoup from their mistake. If you have a gas heater you'll have some extra room to work with so send us all the equipment specs and we could do a simple calculation of what amperage breaker you'll need.

Ok!

 

[Chess1]

Ok!

 

[PoolGate]

If that is your original contract I do not see any mention of Aqualink or a load center placed at your equipment pad. You do not need more than 50 amps total. I fail to see how your builder was going to wire this without a load center at your equipment pad. Both pumps, the SWG and the heater, not to mention any lights and the required convenience outlet all require their own power. Was the plan to run each of those wires individually from your existing home breaker box?

 

[ajw22]

“50 amps or 70 amps does not change any costs in the Aqualink.” My PM charging me 1k for just upgrade from rs4 to rs6 ( original quote was $1800 for rs4 and whatever it comes with, plus 1k for rs6 because it comes with bigger load center, in my understanding.

There is only one size Load Center box, the 6614-LD, that can be configured as a RS4, 8 or 8. This is what it looks like with the electronics board at the top, 4, 6 or 8 relays int he middle, and the load center circuit breakers at the bottom.




This is the 6612 box that only has the electronics and space for 4 relays.




This is the 6613 box that only has space for the electronics and up to 8 relays.

Plus $500 upgrade to 70 amp box.

As your electrician told you, 50 amps is adequate for the equipment you have listed.

At this point I want to pay original quote to control my pool from app. And learning the hard way will have to pay 15% restocking fee for the equipment with bigger load center

You should be told what box you are paying a restocking fee for. It is not about the RS4 or RS6, it is for the cabinet box.

The builder misconfigured and mispriced your electrical setup and is now looking to recover his costs with an inflated change order. He should come clean on his errors and give you understandable pricing. He left off the costs for the individual circuits to the equipment and you should be willing to cover some of that costs.

 

[HermanTX]

There is only one size Load Center box, the 6614-LD, that can be configured as a RS4, 8 or 8. This is what it looks like with the electronics board at the top, 4, 6 or 8 relays int he middle, and the load center circuit breakers at the bottom.


View attachment 385401

This is the 6612 box that only has the electronics and space for 4 relays.


View attachment 385403

This is the 6613 box that only has space for the electronics and up to 8 relays.

View attachment 385402



As your electrician told you, 50 amps is adequate for the equipment you have listed.



You should be told what box you are paying a restocking fee for. It is not about the RS4 or RS6, it is for the cabinet box.

The builder misconfigured and mispriced your electrical setup and is now looking to recover his costs with an inflated change order. He should come clean on his errors and give you understandable pricing. He left off the costs for the individual circuits to the equipment and you should be willing to cover some of that costs.

Allen - this is great info with the pictures. I just looked at the AquaLink Wiki and would like to suggest your post be added to that with the pictures as it is very useful for owners or potential owners of the Jandy AquaLink automation system.
Thanks.

 

[Chess1]

There is only one size Load Center box, the 6614-LD, that can be configured as a RS4, 8 or 8. This is what it looks like with the electronics board at the top, 4, 6 or 8 relays int he middle, and the load center circuit breakers at the bottom.


View attachment 385401

This is the 6612 box that only has the electronics and space for 4 relays.


View attachment 385403

This is the 6613 box that only has space for the electronics and up to 8 relays.

View attachment 385402



As your electrician told you, 50 amps is adequate for the equipment you have listed.



You should be told what box you are paying a restocking fee for. It is not about the RS4 or RS6, it is for the cabinet box.

The builder misconfigured and mispriced your electrical setup and is now looking to recover his costs with an inflated change order. He should come clean on his errors and give you understandable pricing. He left off the costs for the individual circuits to the equipment and you should be willing to cover some of that costs.

Thanks for your response! He probably misquoted. I’ll talk to him again and ask him to make some adjustments and if he doesn’t want to go down on the price I will try on insisting for the quote in the contract without any upgrades and extra outlets. Will ask him for the copy of the receipt to calculate 15% restocking fee.

 

[Chess1]

If that is your original contract I do not see any mention of Aqualink or a load center placed at your equipment pad. You do not need more than 50 amps total. I fail to see how your builder was going to wire this without a load center at your equipment pad. Both pumps, the SWG and the heater, not to mention any lights and the required convenience outlet all require their own power. Was the plan to run each of those wires individually from your existing home breaker box?

It was an upgrade option that I chose for aqualink, attached is the picture. There is no info about how he will wire it. Just says: LFT from utilities to equipment up to 120 ft. By the way the distance from main panel to pool equipment is 63 feet only.

 

[Chess1]

It was an upgrade option that I chose for aqualink, attached is the picture. There is no info about how he will wire it. Just says: LFT from utilities to equipment up to 120 ft. By the way the distance from main panel to pool equipment is 63 feet only.

Here is a contract