I've got a mess - please help.
- Thread starter B_Mann
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,351
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Yes. As per what I posted earlier.
pH is your only wild card. Should be in the 7's to not cause eye and skin discomfort. But you need a pH test pen to check it.
pH is your only wild card. Should be in the 7's to not cause eye and skin discomfort. But you need a pH test pen to check it.
hmmm, the PH test that comes with the FT pro isn't accurate? Is there a better than other pen to purchase?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,351
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
The drop pH test in the K1000 is only good to a FC of 10 ppm.
Members have reported that the Apera 20 or 60 are good pH pens.
Members have reported that the Apera 20 or 60 are good pH pens.
I'll order one of those - in the meantime, I'll test the water with my skin. lol
Im doing another exchange. It just dawned on me.... This is a great time to switch the light to LED. Any of you have a recommendation for a color eld swap?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,351
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
- Feb 6, 2015
- 6,076
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
How is your water table (high/low)?
If your CYA is presently at 160, a two-thirds drain/refill will get your CYA in the 50-60 range.
K1000 pH test is only accurate if FC is 10 or less.
If your CYA is presently at 160, a two-thirds drain/refill will get your CYA in the 50-60 range.
K1000 pH test is only accurate if FC is 10 or less.
I have no clue. I have no experience with pool lights.
Attachments
One would think.... but at this point - I've done a 100% exchange and only seen about a 20 PPM drop....
- May 3, 2014
- 58,351
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
That will be a bulb.
See the single screw at the top of the stainless ring? When you are ready, take that screw out. The ring will swing down. The light assembly will come out and the cord should be long enough you can set the assembly on the deck.
You then need to find out what model assembly it is, and get a bulb and gasket for it.
If you did a full exchange of water and your CYA only dropped 20 ppm, you have a testing issue.
See the single screw at the top of the stainless ring? When you are ready, take that screw out. The ring will swing down. The light assembly will come out and the cord should be long enough you can set the assembly on the deck.
You then need to find out what model assembly it is, and get a bulb and gasket for it.
If you did a full exchange of water and your CYA only dropped 20 ppm, you have a testing issue.
Here's my CYA test method - I put 7.5 of pool water in the bottle.
I fill to 15 with tap water
I drain off to 7.5
I fill to 15 with R0013
I cap and shake - wait 30 seconds and shake once more
Then I go outside with the CYA tube at waste level, back to the sun, then fill the tube until I no longer see the black dot....
What am I doing wrong?
I dont see where Im testing incorrectly - I think the guy just flooded the pool with CYA trying to keep it from turning green. He's been fired from every pool in the neighborhood for a reason.
Is there a chance your CYA was lots higher prior to the water exchange? Tap water has zero CYA so it would be impossible to replace all the water and still have CYA in it. Are you sure you replaced all of it?
Im sure it was WAY higher when I started. I just started doing the diluted test today.... When I first tested I couldn't see the dot after only a few drops.
It was CRAZY high in the beginning.
Orion7319
Well-known member
- Jul 1, 2020
- 1,287
- Pool Size
- 19775
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
You didn’t drain it all at once correct? You drained half, filled it back up and then drained half again and filled it back up, correct? Since you have a fiberglass pool you need to be very careful if you drain it completely. If I’m not mistaken certain precautions have to be taken to prevent the sides from bowing in. I don’t own a fiberglass pool, if Im wrong, someone will correct me.
Correct - I drained it down between 1/3 and a half - three times now. The first time I did it was several days ago, then I did it again 2 days ago, let it mix for 24 hours and did it again. I just turned the pump to the higher setting to mix it better. Will test again in a few hours.
ok, now we're making progress.
First CYA was a 2:1 dilute - tested between 40 and 50
repeated non-dilute and got between 90-100.
FC is 19....
I only have my SWCG set to 20%, and leave my pump running 24/7... I guess turn the SWCG back to 10%?
First CYA was a 2:1 dilute - tested between 40 and 50
repeated non-dilute and got between 90-100.
FC is 19....
I only have my SWCG set to 20%, and leave my pump running 24/7... I guess turn the SWCG back to 10%?
I should have done the bulb swap before now... I dont want to drain it anymore. I bet my water bill will be $1000 this month.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,351
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
not to derail my own thread, but curiosity got me and I took the light out.
The green snot like junk that came out of the housing was disgusting!
Anyway, the gasket looks pretty bad. Im going to run to the local pool store to see if they have the LED that I want and replacement gasket.
I did notice "fresh water only" on the housing. Is this a problem since I converted to salt water?
