I've defected to the dark side! New peristaltic pump

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I am looking at there Stenner 45MHP10 as it yields up to 10GPD, or in my case of running about 8 hrs per day, then approx. 3.3 GPD max output. I don't yet know if the Stenner pumps simply meter less fluid when you dial them down or if the actually operate for less time. Another option is the Rola-Chem pump as they actually operate for different times in 9 minute cycles. As you adjust the output, their on/off time is what is adjusted within that 9 minute window. The Rola Chem RC25/53SC at max of 12GPD would likely be a good choice. Looks like they consume max of 2.5A.
 
The way the stenners work is that the motor runs all the time it's powered on and the dial stops the head for part of every revolution. The lower the dial setting the longer the head is stopped. At 10 it turns all the time the pump is powered.
 
Thanks for the feedback. Even though it's ON, it is likely not drawing much...I would think anyhoo. It's probably only drawing when the head is moving but that's just a guess.
 
I see that on your other thread that you are using the high pressure (26-100 PSI) model w/o issue. So just to be sure, they don't require a minimum pressure to operate correctly? It looks like the HP models come with check valves, is that right? I ask because in researching these and the RolaChem pumps, the RolaChems say that you need to turn them off when running a backwash cycle. With the Stenner pumps (either low or high pressure), is there any reason you need to turn them off when backwashing (other than if desired to not introduce Chlorine)? I'd guess that the check valve would prevent that need. The RolaChems can be had with check valves, but looks like the HP Stenners come with check valves standard, which may be one advantage of the HP models. I am planning to wire mine into my 220V pump timer so it runs when the pump is on.
 
The reason for the HP designation is the pump tubes. There is no minimum head requirement for the HP model to operate. There are a few of the tubes that don't have the pressure rating to withstand more than 25psi.
 
Dave, I see in your first post that you have it installed on your pump timer. Is yours 120V or 220V? I plan to install mine on my pump timer as well, which is 220V, but will hard wire that in of course. Does it come with a plug or what? I haven't been able to tell from any searches I've done. Even it comes with a plug, I can always cut the plug off and hard wire it.
 
Mine is 120 volt with a 6' cord & plug. They make both 120 & 240 volt models of the same pump so you can get it whichever way you need it. According to info on the site the 220 volt models come with a cord too.
 
I have been following this thread closely and will continue to... I had been looking into SWCGs, but between not knowing how I feel about the corrosion issues, the large upfront cost of the system,, and the short(ish) cell life, I have been looking for other alternatives.

Bama, some questions if you don't mind...

How exactly would one mount the pump and fix or plumb the input and output tubes or injectors with a system like this?

Also how is the bleach container closed off? (or is it?) I was thinking of putting a tube into a sealed container, but would this cause vacuum issues as the pump draws out the bleach?
 

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In the case of my setup with an LMI metering pump, the inlet tube has a tapered rubber stopper on it and runs through a hole in the mounting plate and into the 15 gallon tank, the weight on the pickup foot valve holds the rubber stopper gently in place, but any potential pressure build up could easily lift it up and vent. On the smaller 3/4 inch fitting I have added vacuum break one way valve to allow air in, but not out, along with a T and a ball vavle to make refilling easy, just open the ball valve insert funnel and pour.

Ike
 
The pumps can be mounted in a variety of ways, from mounted vertical to just sitting on top of the tank/drum (though I wouldn't recommend that). You need to allow for the displacement of the liquid in the container so a small vent is left in the drum. There's usually enough leakage around the tubing entrance to allow for the venting anyway so unless you go uot of your way to seal it up really well it's not an issue.

For the injection point I just used the old LQ feed tapped hole to thread the injection adapter into. Basically it just needs to go into the pump discharge flow. Mine's after the last piece of equipment so that worked out great.
 
The tubing comes with the Stenner pumps and I picked up the drum here locally but you can order them off the net. Just search for 15 gallon plastic drum. The recycled ones are reasonable just check shipping. Ebay has them too.
 
Agreed. This sounds like the best fit for me (regarding SWG versus straight chlorine). I see a lot of posts about the SWG quitting unexpectedly, though that is probably not the norm. With this setup, it's easy to diagnose issues and is a proven method. Gut feeling is this will cause me the least amount of aggravation down the line (high priority!)
 

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