Issue with Pool fixture and pool light not turning on

[gazoo66]

I have a old Hayward SP-583-SL light fixture that had a old Halogen light burn out. I am replacing it with a LED light since Halogens are not obtainable in California any longer. Because of that I had to replace an old X-10 remote switch with a X-10 WS469 Amazon.com since I heard the old switch is for incandescent only. I connect everything up, live light, neutral. I use a voltmeter and see 120V at the pool light junction box, pressing the X-10 switch turns it off so I believe my connections from the pool electrical box to junction is good. I also get 120v at the bulb socket in the fixture, and properly goes to 0 when i hit the X-10 switch. So to me, everything to the fixture seems ok however i cannot get the light to turn on, the GFCI does not trip. I test the bulb in a regular light socket in the house and it works fine. Any other troubleshooting ideas? Can the fixture be bad if I still get 120v to the bulb socket? Is it a fixture compatibility with LED an issue? This is the light I used Amazon.com

Thanks for any input!

-Steve

 

[1poolman1]

I have a old Hayward SP-583-SL light fixture that had a old Halogen light burn out. I am replacing it with a LED light since Halogens are not obtainable in California any longer. Because of that I had to replace an old X-10 remote switch with a X-10 WS469 Amazon.com since I heard the old switch is for incandescent only. I connect everything up, live light, neutral. I use a voltmeter and see 120V at the pool light junction box, pressing the X-10 switch turns it off so I believe my connections from the pool electrical box to junction is good. I also get 120v at the bulb socket in the fixture, and properly goes to 0 when i hit the X-10 switch. So to me, everything to the fixture seems ok however i cannot get the light to turn on, the GFCI does not trip. I test the bulb in a regular light socket in the house and it works fine. Any other troubleshooting ideas? Can the fixture be bad if I still get 120v to the bulb socket? Is it a fixture compatibility with LED an issue? This is the light I used Amazon.com

Thanks for any input!

-Steve

With the power off, be sure the center tab in the light socket is pulled up a bit. The heat from an incandescent, especially a halogen, can take the "spring" out of the metal. Sometimes it will no longer reach the the center of a new bulb to complete the circuit.

 

[gazoo66]

With the power off, be sure the center tab in the light socket is pulled up a bit. The heat from an incandescent, especially a halogen, can take the "spring" out of the metal. Sometimes it will no longer reach the the center of a new bulb to complete the circuit.

That's a great point thank you, I will see if I can adjust that center tab

 

[1poolman1]

That's a great point thank you, I will see if I can adjust that center tab

With the power OFF, you can use a small piece of stiff wire to lightly pull it up if needed. Sometimes a small screwdriver can pry it up from the end. Be gentle. If it breaks it is new fixture time.

 

[gazoo66]

I was able to lift up the tab but that didnt seem to work. I even tried to screw the bulb in with the power on slowly until it made contact but nothing. Maybe a fixture issue?

 

[1poolman1]

I was able to lift up the tab but that didnt seem to work. I even tried to screw the bulb in with the power on slowly until it made contact but nothing. Maybe a fixture issue?

You can carefully, with the power on, test for voltage between the center of the socket and the side. Emphasis on carefully. Best to have the probes in place and someone else turn power on.