Issue with opening pool

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Thomas Vegas

Well-known member
Mar 5, 2019
87
Las Vegas
Hello everyone, hopefully someone could help me with my issue.
I just reopened my pool. I let it cover all winter. When I removed the cover I discovered a lot of leaves on it (a lot of wind here) and the water was beginning to be a little green.
I thought "no worry, I will slam, it should be good"
I tested the ph, 7.4, CYA, 10, alka, 90.
And I put 3 gallons of bleach (10%) for my 30k pool to reach the slam level.
It was last evening, this morning I want to test the chlorine level with dpd method. No chlorine. The mix powder/water doesn't turn pink at all.
I considered my dpd powder bad so I brought the water to a pool store to test it, same, a very little of chlorine.
May be my CYA is too low so I added 4 tab of chlorine to add some CYA. But it was the night, so it should be a issue?
Tonight I put 3 gallons more of bleach (10%) but it seems to be the same.
I am worry because my pool is turning greener.

So what is happening? My CYA too low and doesn't hold the chlorine and the chlorine literally disappear?
Or the bleach is bad? (in this case at least the tabs would react on the dpd test, right?)

Thank you in advance for your help!
 
You need to follow the SLAM Process

Get your CYA level to 30 ppm using granular stabilizer. Lower your pH to 7.2

How are you testing? How did you get a CYA level of 10?

Before adding granular stabilizer, let me know those things.
 
mknauss, my nevada friend, we talked before, you helped before. I appreciate that. Thank you.
I did the CYA test myself with the test kit (the cloudy test) and the pool store confirm the result, 10.
Why so low? No idea, I used only liquid chlorine last year, a very little of tabs. And I added 5k gallon of fresh water recently.
 
I asked as you cannot measure a CYA level of 10 with any form of testing.

My concern is ammonia. If chlorine is consumed instantly, then it is possible the CYA was converted to ammonia. It is really not a good idea to cover and ignore a pool in our area. But you did so lets resolve it.

Read Ammonia - Further Reading
 
OK - but do the chlorine addition test. Add 10 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine. Pump running. Test FC 15 minutes or so after. If FC is 5 or over, then add some CYA and start a normal SLAM. If FC is less than 5 ppm, repeat the process.
 
mknauss said:
OK - but do the chlorine addition test. Add 10 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine. Pump running. Test FC 15 minutes or so after. If FC is 5 or over, then add some CYA and start a normal SLAM. If FC is less than 5 ppm, repeat the process.
Click to expand...
Hello, I went to the pet store and got a ammonia test. It doesn't seem to have ammonia (or not anymore, and reached the balance where the chlorine ate all the ammonia).
But they did a nitrate and nitrite test as well. I have 80 ppm of nitrate and 5+ ppm of nitrite.
I didn't do the chlorine test yet, should I?
 

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Thomas Vegas said:
It doesn't seem to have ammonia
Click to expand...
Whether never, or you got rid of it already (its a beast so probaly not), woohoo.
Thomas Vegas said:
I have 80 ppm of nitrate and 5+ ppm of nitrite.
Click to expand...
Doesn't matter.

Thomas Vegas said:
Phosphates=+250 ppb, don't know if it's useful
Click to expand...
Doesn't matter. The combonation of Phosphates and nitrates is 'algae food'. The pool store loves to sell expensive phosphate removers when some cheap chlorine kills algae and doesnt allow it to grow in the first place. Literally its like telling you to spray for weeds on the moon. That'll be $75 for the weed spray. You don't want weeds on the moon. No sir.
 
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