Intermatic Timer Dead
- Thread starter David0408
- Start date
Flying Tivo
TFP Guide
- Jan 24, 2017
- 2,955
- Pool Size
- 7500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
What's exactly being done?
What's the breakdown for parts and labor?
Are you getting multiple proposals?
So the breaker that went out was on one of four breaker panels that I have throughout my house. The technician was concerned that he saw some damage from arcing and overheating and that my insurance company would pay to have them all replaced. That is not going to happen. Once the $30 breaker was replaced everything works fine. Clearly, my insurance company would only pay in the event that there was some damage and not because an electrician wants to land a big job.
They’re all the same. The breaker has been replaced and is running just fine. I’m good.
At this point, has the electrician said that everything is safe or are they saying that work needs to be done?
No immediacy. They of course want to do the work, but, they never said that it was critical that it gets done now. Not to mention that I have HVAC guys come over twice a year and they’ve never said anything.
Who originally wired the timer?
The timer is missing the ground wire.
The green wire being used for the power connection is very troubling. No electrician would do that.
Is the new pump breaker a double pole gfci breaker?
The timer is missing the ground wire.
The green wire being used for the power connection is very troubling. No electrician would do that.
Is the new pump breaker a double pole gfci breaker?
NoThere is a GFCI breaker in that same panel. Maybe it would trip the whole panel?
That's a single breaker. I don't think that it goes to the pool subpanel.
You should have a regular double pole breaker from the main panel to the pool subpanel and then a double pole gfci breaker to the main pump and the Polaris booster pump.
You should have a regular double pole breaker from the main panel to the pool subpanel and then a double pole gfci breaker to the main pump and the Polaris booster pump.
Good to know. I’ll talk to an electrical about that the next time they come out. I appreciate you taking the time to help me out!
Rattus Suffocatus
Silver Supporter
- Jun 5, 2019
- 1,657
- Pool Size
- 14000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Universal40
I would at least mark both ends of the green wire with black or red tape as much as you can if it is indeed carrying a hot line. Not code, but at least it indicates the issue to the next guy. The green is probably being used because whatever that run was before was probably a 110V run, and that was converted to the second hot, or was done by an idiot. No bueno if so.... If there isn't a separate ground going to the sub panel then the GFCI is probably ineffective. Does the "test" button work on the GFCI? A single pole GFCI in a pool sub panel is usually used for 110V lights in the pool.
And for a pump you should have a dual pole 220V breaker somewhere but it could be in the panel that supplies the sub panel. They are expensive (like near $100) and many of electricians leave them off the pumps... If you have one upstream you are pretty safe even with that mess but it should be fixed eventually.
And for a pump you should have a dual pole 220V breaker somewhere but it could be in the panel that supplies the sub panel. They are expensive (like near $100) and many of electricians leave them off the pumps... If you have one upstream you are pretty safe even with that mess but it should be fixed eventually.