Intermatic T101 with 220 pump…

[gcipolletti]

I have a Hayward pump system controlled with an Intermatic T1101 timer. It correctly turns the pump system on and off both manually and with timer.
I just added a Circupool SW system that is configured for 110V. Wired it into the timer with the black lead on load and the white on A (neutral). SW system powers up and runs properly.
For some reason, the SW system still gets power even when the timer switch opens, either manually of automatically. How can this occur? I’m thinking that the original installer used this 110 timer on a 220 pump, and used the timer to simply turn off one of the 110 “legs”. I’m not great at AC power but am thinking that the Load terminal is picking up juice from the motor since the pump still has one “leg” getting power?
Any other possibilities? How can I diagnose?

 

[flynwill]

You should post some pictures so that we can confirm, but indeed what you describe is possible. Does the SWG have the option to be run from 240? If so the easiest option might be to switch the SWG to 240 operation and wire to both legs feeding the pump (assuming you can locate the other, always hot, wire to tap into.) The other (and perhaps better) option would be to swap the timer for a 2-pole unit so that you are switching both lines to the pump.

 

[sktn77a]

Is it an Intermatic T101 or a Tork 1101? I believe both are 110volt.

 

[proavia]

What exact pump do you have?

If your pump is 220v, you shouldn't be using a 110v timer to control it.

 

[gcipolletti]

T101 timer. I rewired the SW for 220 and connected it to the booster pump feed (Polaris) which only is powered when the timer is on. Works properly. Apparently it is ok to switch one leg of a 220 line if there is a true cut off nearby- I have a GFCI breaker right there.

 

[ajw22]

. Apparently it is ok to switch one leg of a 220 line if there is a true cut off nearby- I have a GFCI breaker right there.

It is not.

Someone will assume hot wires are not energized when the 240V device is off as the NEC requires and get shocked.

Experienced techs never assume and check every wire before touching it.

If you don’t want to change to a correct 240V timer you should at least label the pump - CAUTION: HOT WIRE IS LIVE WHEN PUMP IS OFF!

 

[Mayorb]

It is not.

Someone will assume hot wires are not energized when the 240V device is off as the NEC requires and get shocked.

Experienced techs never assume and check every wire before touching it.

If you don’t want to change to a correct 240V timer you should at least label the pump - CAUTION: HOT WIRE IS LIVE WHEN PUMP IS OFF!

Yup, all my fault for not killing breaker, but I have had the screwdriver blown out of my hand more than once working on a motor when only one leg was turned off by a T101 (hot and neutral installed to timer backwards)
Never assume a pump is wired 230V. When I do install 115V timers, it is ALWAYS a double pole switch (T103).
A 230V pump controlled by a 115V timer/relay only kills one leg of the two hot wires connected to the motor.
At least some of the electricians out there are in the wrong business.

 

[gcipolletti]

Yeah I have a new timer ready to use, decided to go with a wifi type, 240V. Will probably wait for off season as the current timer is in line with conduit that will likely break when I try to get it out.
I agree that while it may be code around here to wire the way it is, it’s certainly a bad idea and what’s the point? The 240V timer isn’t a lot more $$.

 

[ajpoltz]

T101 timer. I rewired the SW for 220 and connected it to the booster pump feed (Polaris) which only is powered when the timer is on. Works properly. Apparently it is ok to switch one leg of a 220 line if there is a true cut off nearby- I have a GFCI breaker right there.

How do you power the timer without a neutral ?
The t101 would have a 120v timer.