Intelliflo3 VSP I/O Board - Heater and SWG

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Lake Placid said:
If it were my install, I’d run the SWG on the 5A relay and the heater on the 16A relay…both 240v. The lights are out of luck. Heater should power on and off on command with its last set point retained. You would set up programs in the automation that are flow dependent and close whichever relay you tell it to in the program/schedule. Nickname the relays to heater and SWG to make identification easier.
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I concur. You want to make sure that the flow rate is sufficient for the heater when you fire up the heater. Get the manual for your heater and ensure your "heater" RPM delivers sufficient flow for the heater when you turn the heater on.

Is your heater by-passed? How will you control the by-pass of the heater.
 
PoolStored said:
I concur. You want to make sure that the flow rate is sufficient for the heater when you fire up the heater. Get the manual for your heater and ensure your "heater" RPM delivers sufficient flow for the heater when you turn the heater on.

Is your heater by-passed? How will you control the by-pass of the heater.
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H400 wants 30 gpm of flow…..so set the program for heater to maintain 30 gpm. This does somewhat defeat the purpose of electrical savings of the VSP as it will increase rpm automatically to maintain the 30 gpm you program even as the filter clogs and more power is required…..but you want heat so electrical costs are secondary.

The intelliflo3 doesn’t let you set rpm only gpm that you desire…or % of max run speed which is 3450 rpm.
 
You guys are awesome, thank you really appreciate the advice!

Yep I just finished plumbing the bypass to the heater and installing the SWG today. After plumbing, I started working on the electrical but wasn't sure what to do with the relays.

So I'll connect the SWG to the 5A relay and the heater to the 16A relay and make sure I set the appropriate flow rates for both. I'm going to install a flow meter in the plumbing which should help with "syncing" the Pentair's app estimated flow rate to the actual flow rate.

It shouldn't matter where I install the flow meter on the pad right? I'll make sure to avoid placing it near a fitting, but otherwise I don't see how it should make much of a difference.
 
Hmm just had another thought/concern. Is it possible to run both relays at the same time?

Seeing as I have a larger sized pool, I think I may have to run the SWG pretty much non-stop. If that's the case, would I still be able to run the SWG whenever I decided to turn on the heater?
 
loamyroots said:
I'm going to install a flow meter in the plumbing which should help with "syncing" the Pentair's app estimated flow rate to the actual flow rate.

It shouldn't matter where I install the flow meter on the pad right? I'll make sure to avoid placing it near a fitting, but otherwise I don't see how it should make much of a difference.
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I put a Flo-Vis as a replacement for the check valve on the heater return inn the by-pass. Got the by-pass and flow 2 for 1.

The issue is that you are controlling the SWG and the heater, but the pump does not control the bypass...you need automation to control all three (SWG, heater and by-pass).
 
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Ah that looks like a sleak option, should've just installed that rather than a separate check valve and flow meter.

Originally I was under the impression that a heater bypass would be nice to include in case I ever needed to service the heater or until the water was balanced after winter. Are you suggesting automating it to use the bypass more frequently in order to improve water circulation when the heater is not in use?
 
Yeah just plumbed a Jandy 3 way valve today. Did something similar to the picture on the Heater Bypass page on this site.

1600px-Pool_Heater_Bypass.jpg
 

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Your bypass is fine. In your case it’s a fail safe if the heater were to leak and you needed to isolate it for repairs. Manufacturers will often call for a bypass if the gpm exceeds a specified rate so as not to damage the heater. However with the intelliflo you can program a flow limit if you want, so a bypass to relive excess flow isn’t necessary. Most times a bypass for flow restriction is only needed in commercial applications with larger pumps, or as a metering device to allow the heater to be the most efficient it can be at exchanging heat. You can program this via software if you want so no concerns here.
 
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Make sure you follow the instructions for the required length of straight pipe for the most accurate results. When setting up the hose clamps to secure it, make sure they face opposite ways and tighten them in an alternating fashion to keep clamping force on the meter as even as possible. If you face them the same way, the meter will tend to pull towards one side when you tighten and it won’t seal correctly leaving you a perpetual drip.
 
Hey so I might be overthinking this and might be able to only confirm once I try wiring it together this weekend, but would it really make a difference if I powered the 240V to the heater through the high voltage relay on the pump? I'm not sure if the relay would actually be able to turn the heater on/off.

If I have the heater wired directly to 240V on the breaker, I still have to manually press the on/off button on the heater.

If I wire the heater to receive 240V instead from the relay, wouldn't I still have to manually press the on/off button on the heater?
 
But since the Pentair app isn’t a thermostat and there is no temperature probe, won’t the heater continue to heat and not stop at the target temp until it hits 104?
 
You will set the desired temperature on the heater. You are using the IO board as an on/off switch. That is all.
 
Oh!! So don’t put the heater into bypass operation (bO) mode then? Just connect 240V to the relay supply terminals and connect the heater to the relay device terminals.
 
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