Intelliflo Pump Needs Two Brains
- Thread starter drglanton
- Start date
Regarding the fph water temperature sensor, it might be better to have it near the fph so that water temperature near the fph doesn't get too hot in case there is a flow problem.
drglanton, Thank you for posting the installation manual for the Hotspot. I've been reading through it and I've come to what I beleive may be an issue with your install (and therefore mine since i'm doing the exact same thing as my pool gets installed). Specifically, you keep referring to the FPH providing a 24vac signal to turn on the pump when it sees the pool needs heat and the AC is running. BUT, on page 12 of the installation manual for the Hotspot it says the FPH internal relay ties into the pump contactor directly as long as it's below 3/4 hp and is 240 vac. So, the relay that fires internal to the FPH is NOT 24vac it is 240VAC and the wiring diagram on page 13/14 shows it tying directly into 240vac to run the pump. the 24vac looks to only be applicable when there are pool pump contactors installed which seems to only be when the pump motor is above 1hp.
I haven't physically seen any of my pool equipemnt yet, and in fact have no idea if the pump is 1hp or 3/4 or what so I wonder if you have or know? it appears the defualt from FPH is set up as direct 240vac tie in to kick on the pump rather than a 24vac contact that we can use as described to simply bring the second resister in series. Perhaps I'm missing something?
I haven't physically seen any of my pool equipemnt yet, and in fact have no idea if the pump is 1hp or 3/4 or what so I wonder if you have or know? it appears the defualt from FPH is set up as direct 240vac tie in to kick on the pump rather than a 24vac contact that we can use as described to simply bring the second resister in series. Perhaps I'm missing something?
The 24 VAC signal goes to the relay coil, which is 24VAC.
The relay contacts can be any voltage up to the contact rating.
You're not understanding how the system works.
It's pretty well described in this thread. Please read through it carefully and thoroughly.
The relay contacts can be any voltage up to the contact rating.
You're not understanding how the system works.
It's pretty well described in this thread. Please read through it carefully and thoroughly.
Thanks for the close read. . I think this applies:
"If the pump exceeds 3/4 HP at 240 vac or 1/3 HP at 120 vac, please use an external contactor and connect it as shown below. This will include nearly all 120 vac pumps."
"The pool pump contactor has its common wired in parallel with the contactors common. The pool contactors 24 vac coil is wired through our Internal FPH Controller relay, terminal #6, pins 1 & 3 and 2&4, CBX1 only. This allows our FPH controller to operate the pool pump contactor to bypass the existing pool timer. The contactor can be a 2 pole contactor when the neutral wire isn’t used. Example; Mars 180001. The contactors must have 24 vac coils, please consult your electrician for proper sizing. "
I if understand everything, we will be just fine.
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@Belikin - Based on what I have read, one of the main installation fauz pas is improper BRAZING technique and overheating the solenoids, check valves, and valve assemblies. I ordered some HEAT BLOCK to protect the components. This should do the trick!
I'm anxious to see the setup in operation. When are you anticipating being at the installation phase? I JUST got approval from my neighborhood architectural committee for our build so we probably won't begin dig until next week at the very earliest and I'm feeling as though my PB is not pushing to move forward the way that I would like
That stuff looks pretty cool! I'll check with my HVAC guy. My dude says he's done the AC side of a couple of these before so I'm hoping he's on the ball for mine
You are ahead of me then . . . I am still awaiting my our building plans. We are probably 4 weeks from moving dirt. But I have ordered all my equipment and is sitting here in my basement including my resistors, relays, etc. It is going to be fine!
This is an interesting comment. This might give a bit more safety in exchange for a less accurate reading, since the water closer to the FPH is not necessarily representative of the pool temp - correct?
Another safety idea, mentioned by someone in the main FPH thread, would be to add a separate temp sensor and relay to shutoff the FPH if the refrigerant coming out of the FPH is too hot. If there is a high pressure safety switch inline with the compressor though, maybe this isn't needed?
@JamesW I'm a little surprised by this. Does this mean solar can't even be triggered unless the filter pump is running? I would think the pool water temp doesn't matter except using the FPH temp sensor?
The Pentair system needs to have the pump on to check the water temperature. If it doesn't know the water temperature, it won't activate the solar.
Since your approach assumes a pump would already be running when an FPH signals it, is there some approach that can be used to signal a pump controller to turn a pump on, when it's not, given some 24VAC signal?
The Intelliflo can be controlled by an IntelliCom II module. The SuperFlo VS can be controlled by an external input.
www.pentair.com
The pump does not use much power when on low speed. So, running all the time is not a bad option.
IntelliComm II Interface Adapter
The IntelliComm II Interface Adapter provides automatic control of IntelliPro and IntelliFlo variable speed and flow pumps with Pentair Compool systems as well as Jandy and Hayward automation controllers.
The pump does not use much power when on low speed. So, running all the time is not a bad option.