Intelliflo pump is leaking

Gotta ask. Is there a second o-ring? One that seals the two union halves together, and a second one that seals the bottom half of the union to the pump housing?
 
OK, I just went out and looked at mine, again! I was absolutely right!! In deferring to Jim!!! There is a second o-ring under there, and so there shouldn't be any sealant on the pump's threads. Thanks for being so patient, Jim...
 
That said, Rocket's picture doesn't look like that. Either the o-ring is missing, or we can't see it, or he's got a different type of union fitting, if there is such a thing. Sure looks like someone put putty on those threads. Anywho, he's got some things to look for now...
 
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The front one looks right. The top one appears to be different from the posted pic angle. So it may be a pvc threaded one into the pump.
 
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This is where I got it, page 2 of the IntelliFlo manual (well, one of 'em, anyway), in the Installation section, under the Piping subhead:

Piping
  1. For improved pool plumbing, it is recommended to use a larger pipe size. When installing the inlet and outlet fittings (male adaptors), use thread sealant.
* I added the bold.
My manual says the same thing (page 30) and nothing else on the subject. This seems clear that the male adapters (that fit the female unions to the pump) get sealant. I have a jumbo roll of teflon tape and will see what I see when I take it all apart tomorrow and will clean & lube the union o-ring but not "seal" the union to the adapter. (Right?)

IMHO, putty is not a thread sealant. Putty is what you slap on when you have failed to stop it leaking and hope it holds long enough that the customer won't notice. Sealants are (1) teflon tape and (2) pipe thread compound. I believe compound is for metal pipes, so I will use tape. (Right?)
 
Well, somewhere along this ever-lengthening thread, I misspoke. Maybe. It depends on the type of union you have on top of the pump. There is one configuration, the one I have, and the one that Jim was describing, that doesn't need any sealant of any kind, anywhere, because the sealing is done via two o-rings. One is inside the union joint. Only lube for that one. The threads that compress that o-ring don't require any putty or tape. But unbeknownst to me earlier, there is a second o-ring. That o-ring is located between the bottom half of the union and the pump's body. That connection doesn't need sealant either (only lube for the o-ring).

Now where I got off track was your pic, the red arrow. That looks to me to be pointing at putty of some sort, and I can't see if your union has an o-ring where it threads into the pump. It looks like it is just threaded in, which means it's not using an o-ring to seal, rather it's relying on the threads, in which case it would need sealant, and like you, I prefer tape.

So first step is to see if there is an o-ring at that connection, or if it is just threaded in.
 
Be careful when using a shmear like sealant other then Teflon tape such as Teflon paste or pipe dope there will be a undetectable feel for when it's been cranked down enough and you keep going till the crack snap signal tells you you've gone way too far. By then you'll need a new pump housing. Go it by hand and stop when it won't move which at that point give it a nodge with the channellock and STOP. You can always tighten it a bit more if it drips but a little at a time by just loosening the union nut before hand.
 
If you use a Pump Union, you do not use any puddy or tape.

Even though both of them screw into the same inlet and outlet fittings on the pump, they are different. The PVC adapter uses the threads to make a waterproof seal, while the pump union uses the O-Ring on the threaded end to make the seal.
Here is what Jim is referring to. The male end that connects to the pump has a an o-ring, so no tape or joint compound would be required.
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Well, some higher priority tasks suddenly manifested, so I won't be able to get to this until Thursday.

That gives me time to think about how I'm going to get the male adapter out of the pump after loosening the union. Seems like the pipes to the filter are in the way and aren't moveable.
 
You can move that whole section of pipe by removing the pump union and the union on the filter. You might want to have a strap wrench on hand. They're about 10 bucks at Home Depot. If there is no oring present on the threaded pipe, you'll need pipe joint compound on the threads. Use silicone pool lube on the O-rings.
 
If there is no oring present on the threaded pipe, you'll need pipe joint compound on the threads.
Or if you determine that it is the type of union that was supposed to have an o-ring there, but was installed without one, you could consider restoring it. Clean all the old putty off from everywhere, and look to the internet for a replacement. A local plumbing supply store might have a variety of o-rings. Or even big box stores. My Lowes has a large set of drawers that offer all sorts of specialty hardware parts... maybe there.

I've fashioned o-rings out of the rubber sheets made for that purpose, but I've never tried that on pool plumbing.

Of course tape will work just fine, too.
 
Success! No more drip.

Believe it or not, the PB who plumbed this pump actually used plumber's putty instead of pipe compound or teflon tape. I had to scrape it all out of the threads and off the o-ring. I had previously performed similar surgery on my booster pump, which also had a drip from the pressure coupling. There, PB had used... nothing. In both cases I added a generous amount of tape and done.

The easy part was moving the pipe up and out of the way after loosening the pump union. It was able to simply swivel up at the filter union without removing it therefrom.

The hard part was getting the tightness just right on the male adapter. Not wanting to over-tighten, I had to perform trial-and-error iterations of tighten, test, tighten, test until the drip stopped.

Thanks to all who responded!
 
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