IntelliConnect - Additional relay?

sagosto

Well-known member
May 28, 2019
242
Mahwah, NJ
The heater will start and stop running based on the water temperature the IntelliConnect sees to mainatin the heater setpoint in the IntelliConnect..




No, If your heater requires AC power to operate it needs to be connected to a circuit breaker.

The Firemans switch is a low voltage switch.

The NEC label on the heater says 120/240/24V (https://www.royalswimmingpools.com/rp2100manual.pdf) but was previously connected from the old Tork timer to the fireman's switch on the 240V/20A line. That would enable power 9-5PM and I'd adjust the heater up/down. Now, I will set it to max temp and IntelliConnect will just constantly enable/disable power to it. However, the IntelliConnect Heater only outputs 24V but that seems to be inline with the NEC.

And, Raypak doesn't offer phone support for residential. Sigh.
 
Last edited:

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
28,605
Northern NJ
Pool Size
35000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
The NEC label on the heater says 120/240/24V (https://www.royalswimmingpools.com/rp2100manual.pdf) but was previously connected from the old Tork timer to the fireman's switch on the 240V/20A line. That would enable power 9-5PM and I'd adjust the heater up/down.

You need that power connection. You can rewire before the timer or just remove the pins from the timer and leave it always on.

Now, I will set it to max temp and IntelliConnect will just constantly enable/disable power to it.

No, the IntelliConnect does NOT enable/disable the AC power to it. It uses a separate 24V control line.

However, the IntelliConnect Heater only outputs 24V but that seems to be inline with the NEC.

No, the IntelliConnect does not output 24V. The 24V comes from the heater. The IntelliConnect only opens and closes a relay that completes the 24V circuit int he heater.

And, Raypak doesn't offer phone support for residential. Sigh.

They won't understand your problem anyway.
 

sagosto

Well-known member
May 28, 2019
242
Mahwah, NJ
I contacted a local pool company who does Raypak warranty and they said tork timer firemen switch was outputting low voltage to the raypaks fireman switch to keep the fan going after timer shut off I am nearly positive the raypak was using tork timer fireman switch but that must be controlling power as that’s the only wire going into the unit. You can see the 2 wire nuts in the picture. Does fireman switch have 240v for constant power?!
 

Attachments

  • 63DD7F7B-8F9A-4BC7-BCE1-9C05167584D8.jpeg
    63DD7F7B-8F9A-4BC7-BCE1-9C05167584D8.jpeg
    516.7 KB · Views: 1

sagosto

Well-known member
May 28, 2019
242
Mahwah, NJ
Thank you ajw22 for all of the help! I know there's some love in that North Jersey snarkiness :) There is light at the end of the tunnel please stay with me.

The heater was previously wired with the pump on the same 240V/20A circuit which was fed from the Tork timer. In the picture below, you can see the 3 WIRE connectors for BLACK/RED 240V and a GREEN that plug into the control box in the background. That's the direct power wiring, correct?! Those wires also extend through the heater to the conduit that feeds the pump. The new Intelliflow is now on a separate 240V breaker so I need to rewire the pump to remove it from the same circuit used by the heater assuming I am correct above and they are the ones powering the heater.

I reviewed the manual but I can't figure out the purpose of the connection between the Tork Timer's Fireman's switch into the furnace's control board (RIGHT 2 most pins on the block). The label says "WHEN NECESSARY ADD "FIREMANS" SWITCH CIRCUIT HERE DO NOT USE FOR REMOTE CONTROL CONNECTION. USE P8-SEE MANUAL" What is this? I've never seen "Clock/ Fireman Sw" on the control panel ever.

I believe I need to connect the IntelliConnect's HEATER to the 7-pin harness BLUE (24V) and ORANGE/BLACK (SPA) wires. Does this instruction " Attach wire nut on unused wire to the "Remote Interface Harness." refer to the OTHER wire (e.g. BLACK/ORANGE POOL WIRE) not being used? What does this mean??

Page 38 of manual (https://www.royalswimmingpools.com/rp2100manual.pdf)
TIME CLOCK/FIREMAN’S SWITCH
To operate the heater with a time clock, connect the timer to the fireman’s switch connection in the heater’s wiring. The time clock should be of the dual switch type and set to shut off the call for heat to the pool heater 15 to 20 minutes prior to shutting down the pool pump. On millivolt heaters the fireman’s switch connection is a wire nut located in the Violet/Black wiring between the manual toggle switch and the gas valve. For AFT heaters the fireman’s switch connection is located on the 14-pin header connected to the digital control board. Splice into the red wire jumper tagged “Where necessary add “Fireman’s” switch circuit here” to connect the time clock. The fireman’s switch connection on both millivolt and AFT heaters must be a dry contact and must not supply power to the heater. Powering the fireman’s switch connection externally may damage the heater, and is not covered by warranty. Millivolt heaters: Do not exceed 15ft of total wiring using 14 AWG stranded copper wire rated for 105ºC (221ºF) minimum. AFT heaters: Do not exceed 50ft of total wiring using 18 AWG stranded copper wire rated for 105ºC (221ºF) minimum. NOTE: When using a time clock, the heater will display “Clock/ Fireman Sw” when the fireman’s switch is open, indicating that the time clock has shut off the call for heat.


2-Wire Remote Control (On-Off)
This application assumes that only one heating function (pool or spa) is required.
1. Turn on power to the heater.
2. For a 2-Wire Remote Control from a remote without its own sensor, push the mode button to the “POOL” or “SPA” mode and set the desired setpoint (eg. 102 °F for Spa).
3. For a 2-Wire Remote Control from a remote with its own sensor, push the mode button “POOL” or “SPA” mode and set the temperature to the highest setting available on the control. The actual setpoint will be controlled by the remote control.
4. Turn the mode button to "OFF" and remove power from the heater.
5. On the "Remote Interface Harness", connect the BLUE wire to one side of the "REMOTE" switch and connect the other side to either the ORANGE/BLACK wire for "SPA" operation or the BLACK/ORANGE wire for "POOL" operation.
6. Attach wire nut on unused wire to the "Remote Interface Harness."
7. Install the "7-Pin Remote Interface Harness" to the P8 connector and turn power “On” to the heater. To activate the remote control, see page 36.
 

Attachments

  • 3EC436E9-41F0-4755-ACE6-3C745458EBC6.jpeg
    3EC436E9-41F0-4755-ACE6-3C745458EBC6.jpeg
    504.8 KB · Views: 4
  • 8E7800E9-D47A-43BA-A971-016F86C46DDB.jpeg
    8E7800E9-D47A-43BA-A971-016F86C46DDB.jpeg
    516.7 KB · Views: 5
  • A2282939-1ACD-4A9D-872C-E9904519196D.jpeg
    A2282939-1ACD-4A9D-872C-E9904519196D.jpeg
    388.3 KB · Views: 4
  • 0A5CC31F-7A20-4022-A4A6-39D2BDFA8446.jpeg
    0A5CC31F-7A20-4022-A4A6-39D2BDFA8446.jpeg
    378.2 KB · Views: 4
  • 8E7800E9-D47A-43BA-A971-016F86C46DDB.jpeg
    8E7800E9-D47A-43BA-A971-016F86C46DDB.jpeg
    640.8 KB · Views: 3
Last edited:

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
28,605
Northern NJ
Pool Size
35000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I contacted a local pool company who does Raypak warranty and they said tork timer firemen switch was outputting low voltage to the raypaks fireman switch to keep the fan going after timer shut off I am nearly positive the raypak was using tork timer fireman switch but that must be controlling power as that’s the only wire going into the unit. You can see the 2 wire nuts in the picture. Does fireman switch have 240v for constant power?!

You are a trove of misinformation.

You don't put voltage on the fireman's switch. Not 24V or 240V. The 24V comes FROM the heater and the "Fieman's SWicth" just completes the circuit. Without the circuit closed the 24V does not get to the heater controls and the heater does not run.
 

sagosto

Well-known member
May 28, 2019
242
Mahwah, NJ
You are a trove of misinformation.

You don't put voltage on the fireman's switch. Not 24V or 240V. The 24V comes FROM the heater and the "Fieman's SWicth" just completes the circuit. Without the circuit closed the 24V does not get to the heater controls and the heater does not run.

I've updated a post after the one you commented that is much more clear as I dug into the wiring. But, I am not clear on what this above means to be honest.

The Tork Timer is not removed from the equation as the IntelliConnect replaces its functionality. What do I connect those lines to now?
 
Last edited:

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
28,605
Northern NJ
Pool Size
35000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
The heater was previously wired with the pump on the same 240V/20A circuit which was fed from the Tork timer. In the picture below, you can see the 3 WIRE connectors for BLACK/RED 240V and a GREEN that plug into the control box in the background. That's the direct power wiring, correct?

Yes, the BLACK/RED is the 240V power to the heater and the GREEN is ground. You still need that and it has NOTHING to do with the Fireman's Switch.

Those wires also extend through the heater to the conduit that feeds the pump.

I don't understand that and don't see that. And can't comment on your 240V routing.
The new Intelliflow is now on a separate 240V breaker so I need to rewire the pump to remove it from the same circuit used by the heater assuming I am correct above and they are the ones powering the heater.

If the Intelliflow is on its own 240V breaker then it should no longer be running through the timer.

I reviewed the manual but I can't figure out the purpose of the connection between the Tork Timer's Fireman's switch into the furnace's control board (RIGHT 2 most pins on the block). The label says "WHEN NECESSARY ADD "FIREMANS" SWITCH CIRCUIT HERE DO NOT USE FOR REMOTE CONTROL CONNECTION. USE P8-SEE MANUAL" What is this? I've never seen "Clock/ Fireman Sw" on the control panel ever.

Ignore that.

I believe I need to connect the IntelliConnect's HEATER to the 7-pin harness BLUE (24V) and ORANGE/BLACK (SPA) wires. Does this instruction " Attach wire nut on unused wire to the "Remote Interface Harness." refer to the OTHER wire (e.g. BLACK/ORANGE POOL WIRE) not being used? What does this mean??

There are three wires in the heater at that point. BLUE is the COMMON wire you connect to. And you connect to the ORANGE/BLACK SPA wire. That is the 2 wire control connected to the IntelliConnect.

That leaves the BLACK/ORANGE POOL wire unconnected and they want you to cap it off with a wire nut.
 

sagosto

Well-known member
May 28, 2019
242
Mahwah, NJ
If the Intelliflow is on its own 240V breaker then it should no longer be running through the timer.

There are three wires in the heater at that point. BLUE is the COMMON wire you connect to. And you connect to the ORANGE/BLACK SPA wire. That is the 2 wire control connected to the IntelliConnect.

That leaves the BLACK/ORANGE POOL wire unconnected and they want you to cap it off with a wire nut.

The timer is completely gone. I am referencing the timer only to understand how it was previously wired to understand what changes I need to make. At this point, I have zero need for the lines that were previously connected from the heater's fireman's switch to the Tork Timer, correct? I can remove them and then I just need to connect the heater's 2-wire remote control to the IntelliConnect.

"That leaves the BLACK/ORANGE POOL wire unconnected and they want you to cap it off with a wire nut." <-- I am not sure where the other end of the BLACK/ORANGE wire goes. Just cut the wire and cap of both ends?
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
28,605
Northern NJ
Pool Size
35000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
The timer is completely gone. I am referencing the timer only to understand how it was previously wired to understand what changes I need to make. At this point, I have zero need for the lines that were previously connected from the heater's fireman's switch to the Tork Timer, correct?

You should be able to connect the two wires that went from the heater to the Tork timer to the IntelliConnect heater connection.

If you don't use that connection for the IntelliConnect I think you will need to splice the two wires back together at the heater for the heater to run.

I can remove them and then I just need to connect the heater's 2-wire remote control to the IntelliConnect.

That can work also.

"That leaves the BLACK/ORANGE POOL wire unconnected and they want you to cap it off with a wire nut." <-- I am not sure where the other end of the BLACK/ORANGE wire goes. Just cut the wire and cap of both ends?

NO! Why would you cut the wire at BOTH ends?

You will just have one end of the BLACK/ORANGE not connected. Put a wire not on it so it does not short against anything.

Don't cut any wires you are not told to. Just follow the Installation Instructions.
 

sagosto

Well-known member
May 28, 2019
242
Mahwah, NJ
You should be able to connect the two wires that went from the heater to the Tork timer to the IntelliConnect heater connection.

If you don't use that connection for the IntelliConnect I think you will need to splice the two wires back together at the heater for the heater to run.

I think we are saying the same thing. I can use the 2 wires that connected the heater's fireman switch to the Tork Timer's fireman switch for the IntelliConnect/Heater 7pin harness connection discussed below, correct? This means that the heater's fireman switch connections previously used with the Tork Timer will not be used in any way. I see now. There's no need to "break the circuit" which the Tork Timer was doing. The heater gets constant power and IntelliConnect will use the remote control 2-wire to control the heater via temp sensor input. Am I right?

NO! Why would you cut the wire at BOTH ends?

You will just have one end of the BLACK/ORANGE not connected. Put a wire not on it so it does not short against anything.

Don't cut any wires you are not told to. Just follow the Installation Instructions.

The harness has 3 wires and I am not sure where they connect to. Are they just exposed wires where I will use wire connectors for BLUE and ORANGE/BLACK. leaving the remaining BLACK/ORANGE to be capped off?

What does "7. Install the "7-Pin Remote Interface Harness" to the P8 connector" mean? Isn't the harness already plugged in?
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
28,605
Northern NJ
Pool Size
35000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
The harness has 3 wires and I am not sure where they connect to.

You don't care where they connect to although they should connect to the "7-Pin Remote Interface Harness" to the P8 connector.

Are they just exposed wires where I will use wire connectors for BLUE and ORANGE/BLACK. leaving the remaining BLACK/ORANGE to be capped off?

I am assuming so since I can't see your heater and you can.

What does "7. Install the "7-Pin Remote Interface Harness" to the P8 connector" mean? Isn't the harness already plugged in?
It means you probably should have disconnected the "7-Pin Remote Interface Harness" to the P8 connector before making the connections so make sure you reconnect it.
 

sagosto

Well-known member
May 28, 2019
242
Mahwah, NJ
And, remove the 2 red wire's on the heater's fireman's switch as the Tork Timer is not in the equation and there's no need to complete the circuit. Correct?

I am still a bit hazy on the harness but it will probably make more sense when I look specifically for the harness. It sounds like the harness is a bridge to the P8 connector so I can tap into 2 of them and cap off the last one. It wouldn't make sense for them to connect anything especially when it says to cap off the line.
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
28,605
Northern NJ
Pool Size
35000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
And, remove the 2 red wire's on the heater's fireman's switch as the Tork Timer is not in the equation and there's no need to complete the circuit. Correct?

Wrong. The two red wires need to be connected for the heater to run.

They were originally connected when the heater was delivered. They were cut to connect to the timer. If you remove the timer you need to reconnect the wires.
 

sagosto

Well-known member
May 28, 2019
242
Mahwah, NJ
Wrong. The two red wires need to be connected for the heater to run.

They were originally connected when the heater was delivered. They were cut to connect to the timer. If you remove the timer you need to reconnect the wires.

I can wire nut the original line back together or wire nut the two red lines together to reconnect the original line.
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
28,605
Northern NJ
Pool Size
35000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
thank you. You are on a roll.

Since, I have a two color wheel led lights and a normal white led on the same relay, does it matter how the relay is configured?

What are your configuration choices?
 

sagosto

Well-known member
May 28, 2019
242
Mahwah, NJ
I will check today.

how do I verify if pump is wired properly? It’s off to the side waiting for my pool installer to replace old. Can I power it up to verify keypad lights up? Or do I need to wait for it to be completely installed ?
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
28,605
Northern NJ
Pool Size
35000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I will check today.

how do I verify if pump is wired properly? It’s off to the side waiting for my pool installer to replace old. Can I power it up to verify keypad lights up? Or do I need to wait for it to be completely installed ?

How do I know anything about your pump to answer your question?

Provide details, show pictures, and MAYBE we can see things you are not seeing or explain things you don't understand.
 

panic_button

Bronze Supporter
Jun 23, 2019
335
Emerald Coast Florida
Pool Size
21000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Remember the Link02 app is going to be unsupported starting June 1st any you will need to use the Pentair Home app.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.