IntelliChlor IC40 No Flow

[myersgg]

I have an IntelliChlor IC40 and cannot get the flow light to go green! It started showing as red in the past few weeks (it would go between red and green), but recently it has stayed red.

Things I've tried:
- I acid washed the cell, everything looked fine anyway and almost no bubbles
- I have a check valve just before and just after the IntelliChlor and both seem to show a good amount of flow (my filter diverts some flow to the heater and some directly back to the pool so it can be pumping more through 1 of the pipes).
- I turned my pump speed up from 1800 to 3000 and still nothing
- I took off the flow sensor and tested it with a multimeter and it does register flow when pressed, and I had an old cell lying around so I switched the flow sensors

Any other ideas? I am considering connecting the red and black wires of the flow sensor together to see if that will at least turn the light green (obviously not a real solution and I'm not sure if that would mess anything up).

Please help!!

 

[BestJoeyEver]

Have you tried closing the diverter so full flow is going to the cell?

 

[myersgg]

Unfortunately I don't think I'm able to do that (as far as I can tell), I have a Tagelus multiport valve in the top of the filter and when I have it set to filter it goes to both outputs, I don't know if any settings would go to just 1 output and I don't have a shut off on that side of the pump.

 

[drharris]

Possibly a stupid question, but have you verified that the flow direction through the IC-40 would indeed press the flow switch the correct direction? I only ask because at some point Pentair reversed the control panel orientation on these units such that they typically get installed "upside down" with the flow.

 

[myersgg]

Haha yep the flow is in the right direction

 

[LapPoolMike]

Is your filter clean, good flow through your filter? I had red flow light last weekend on my IC40 and cleaning my cartridge filter fixed the issue (was dirty from big pool party).

 

[myersgg]

Yeah as far as I can tell the filter seems good. I backwashed it, then set it to clean, then ran it. I also opened the top of the multiport valve to make sure nothing was stuck on the side going to the chlorinator.

 

[LapPoolMike]

What is connected to the inlet of the check valve before the SWG? What is connected to the outlet of the check valve after the SWG? If these check valves aren't critical, I'd take the guts out of them (if possible) one at a time and see if that fixes flow. Can your pump speed go higher than 3000 or is that max, does increasing it help the flow light?

 

[Jimrahbe]

M,

Logically, you either have flow or not. If you have good flow going back into your pool then it has to be the cell/flow switch.

Assuming you have good flow, then I like your idea of connecting the red/black coming out of the cell and ensuring that the red no flow light turns green. Since the wires are already open you could also ohms check the switch itself which should read zero ohms with good flow.

Keep in mind that the flow switch itself has a direction arrow..

My bet is that the cell is ok, and that the flow switch is bad...

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[myersgg]

Still no luck, I tried boosting the pump to the max speed (3400) and nothing. Here is where I get concerned, I connected the red and black wires from the cell together and the red no flow light did not turn green . I'm not really sure what the next step would be after that. I will say that while running the pump I have noticed that randomly the flow light will turn green (not very often), it used to do it more frequently and it seems to do it less and less now, with no changes to anything.

BTW (and maybe I should include pictures) but the setup goes pump->filter->heat pump->check valve->SWG Also, at the filter it splits off to another line that I believe just goes directly back to the pool. And there is a booster pump connected after the SWG that shares the return line with the SWG which is where the other check valve is (so the booster pump could theoretically force some water the wrong way up the SWG, but I have a shut off valve that I shut off for water from the booster pump to ensure there was no way that is happening).

 

[drharris]

If bypassing the switch didn't work, I'd suspect some kind of open circuit issue with the control board itself, or the wires leading down to it. No idea if it's possible to open it up to get to that stuff to diagnose further.

 

[Chrisjen4]

Still no luck, I tried boosting the pump to the max speed (3400) and nothing. Here is where I get concerned, I connected the red and black wires from the cell together and the red no flow light did not turn green . I'm not really sure what the next step would be after that. I will say that while running the pump I have noticed that randomly the flow light will turn green (not very often), it used to do it more frequently and it seems to do it less and less now, with no changes to anything.

BTW (and maybe I should include pictures) but the setup goes pump->filter->heat pump->check valve->SWG Also, at the filter it splits off to another line that I believe just goes directly back to the pool. And there is a booster pump connected after the SWG that shares the return line with the SWG which is where the other check valve is (so the booster pump could theoretically force some water the wrong way up the SWG, but I have a shut off valve that I shut off for water from the booster pump to ensure there was no way that is happening).

Did you ever figure out what the problem was? We’re having the same issue except my husband did cut the wires to flow switch and it was still red. We purchased a new flow switch because we were advised by local pool store who was advised by pentair. The flow switch light is still red with the new part This has been going on since the end of last years pool season. The pool was put it 3 years ago. I will be upset if the cell is already going bad after only 12 mos of use.

 

[MyAZPool]

Grrrrrr
I have to admit that seeing all of these consistent threads and posts regarding defective IntelliChlor flow/temp sensors as well as conductivity sensors are depressing at best. I have had my very own issues as well with these things and still have a defective conductivity sensor. Just a few thoughts from my perspective (I guess because it helps me to "vent" about it)

My IntelliChlor does actually perform its intended purpose (generating chlorine) pretty well and I do like the design and the overall performance.

However, as many threads as I have seen on this issue lately, there is no doubt that there is a systemic problem with these IntelliChlor probes/sensors. You know, when other manufactures of various products find that they have used defective or inferior components in their products, many times they do a recall. But there has been no sign of that from Pentair.

Not sure I feel any better about it now, but that's my two cents. I really wish Pentair would find a different supplier for their probes and sensors with higher QC for the IntelliChlor.
r.

EDIT: Another company is going to come up with a "plug and play" replacement for the IntelliChlor that will have all of the same integration with the Pentair automation, but with a much higher level of quality control and a much better warranty. When or if they do, I'm IN! I don't give a darn about "name", I care that EVERYTHING that is supposed to work, actually does!