Intellichlor burned up.

Dec 9, 2014
13
Corona CA
I have a Pentair Intellichlor IC40 that burned itself up.

I am pretty sure the failure was from a faulty fuse. The system has one of the push to reset fuses. It was stuck and did not switch to open causing the salt generator to burn a hole in itself.

This happened a few months ago. I kept smelling slight electrical burning in the back yard but thought it was the neighbor.

I have since replaced the fuse and I am getting ready to order a new generator. Is there anything else I should be checking before instal and should I go with the same model? The bad on is from 2015 or 2016.

Thanks in advance.

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What is your salt level?

How do you test your salt level?

Do you use a Taylor K-1766 salt test kit?
 
I have not tested the salt level in the past few months, since it burned. But it was right at the correct level, I forget the number. I was going through adding salt over the summer because it was extremely low.

When I opened up the unit after it burned the plates had a lot of buildup. It had been 5-6 months since the last service.

Like I said in the original post the fuse never popped. I am assuming that fuse was from 07 when the pool was built.

Thanks again
 
Moisture likely got into the electronics on a 7 year old unit. The build date is on a sticker under the unit.

The fuse not blowing it is a separate issue and likely not responsible. It might not have even needed to blow depending on where the fuse is, and what the problem was.

Before having someone install a new one, have them verify the correct DC voltage at the power supply. It would suck to fry a new one if the power supply was the problem.
 
Check your salt level with the K-1766 before hooking up the new SWG. High salt levels can glitch a cell and could have contributed to your cell drawing too many amps and then the fuse not opening causing the burnup.

Voltage on the Intellichlor varies between 24V-40V. I don't think you are going to be able to check the voltage without hooking up a cell and engaging the flow switch.

Burnups is typically not a voltage problem but a high amperage problem which you can't observe until the cell is in operation.
 
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Output: 22-39 VDC @ 6 AMPS maximum from the Power Center.

The voltage between the red and black wire on the connector (J7) going to the cell is about 40 volts DC..
 
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