Installing a Pentair TR100 sand filter yourself-Is it abvisable

K-Tanz

0
Apr 18, 2018
11
Phoenix/AZ
Hey there, everyone!

I have a Pentair TR-100 filter for my in ground approx 28k gallon chlorine pool with a popup head system in Arizona. I was chasing what I thought was a leak from the top cap, but yesterday I noticed water is actually bleeding through the wall of the filter. I don't see any cracks or holes, but water is FOR SURE seeping through the wall of the tank, almost like open pores in the fiberglass. The filter was manufactured in late 2015, but Pentair told me no go on the warranty. One pool store showed me a two step paint on epoxy product which they said "may get you a few more years out of it" but then another local shop told me "That thing is going to fail, those epoxy products don't do anything if you have bleeding out the wall of the tank". So my first question is which of these opinions is the most correct? Is this a real deal safety issue that I should not apply bandaids to and just do it the right way and replace the filter?

I priced out a new filter. A local shop has "rebuilt" filters which they warranty for one year. They quoted me $800 installed for the rebuilt, or $1300 for a new unit. I called around and a local supply place has a brand new Pentair TR100 for $730 plus sand. I am pretty handy and am considering tackling it myself with the new unit but don't want to damage any systems or mess up my new tank, blow hundreds of pounds of sand into the pool, burn out the motor, or generally cause any additional mayhem with an already expensive situation.

To summarize, I am considering: 1-Buy a brand new unit at $730 and installing it myself
2- Have a local shop install a "rebuilt" unit for $800 with the install

I am pretty handy and am strongly considering removing the old unit and installing a brand new one myself. I have taken apart the motor and replaced motor parts without any issues if that sheds any light on my level of mechanical competence. It is my understanding that one must take great care to not damage the laterals, and to load the sand to the proper level. My push/pull valve seems to be in good shape so I think I can avoid replacing that. Am I in over my head if I install it myself? Is it likely I will damage my fancy new tank or motor if I do it myself? It just seems like $730 plus sand is a way better route than a rebuilt unit for around the same money when there's no telling how much life I will get out of a rebuilt filter tank.

I found this video detailing a sand filter install and they address how to not damage laterals, and the video overall seems pretty good. Any thoughts or suggestions on other guide DIY guides for this job? Sand Filter Install

Thanks so much, any advice is much appreciated!
 
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I never recommend DIY patching a fiberglass pressure vessel, so I agree with the second guy. Replace the filter.

The install of a new sand filter is a very DIY job. If you're a little handy (and apparently you are) it won't be any issue for you to install. The hardest part is plumbing and that's a piece of cake if there's room around the existing filter. Especially since you're replacing in kind.

As a additional recommendation, I would reuse the sand instead of buying new. There will be nothing wrong with your existing sand. You can use a shop vac to get the sand out of the old filter.
Do you know if there is pea gravel in the bottom of the filter, or is it all filter sand?

When adding sand to the filter just take your time and follow the instructions. Add the recommended water to the filter before you start pouring the sand in.
 
Thanks for the reply!

Do you know if there is pea gravel in the bottom of the filter, or is it all filter sand?

When adding sand to the filter just take your time and follow the instructions. Add the recommended water to the filter before you start pouring the sand in.

Should the new tank come with instructions regarding the installation?

I am not sure if there is pea gravel at the bottom, I've never deep cleaned the tank (which may be part of why it failed early, the learning curve is expensive) so I have never seen the bottom of the tank and I am not the original owner.

Any idea how much sand this takes, or will it say in the instructions? It makes sense to me that all new sand would be measured by weight, but if I need to add sand it's just #20 pool filter sand, yeah? And my final question is if I need to add sand should there be marking on the inside of the tank to delineate where to fill the tank to?

Thanks so much for the replies! Sorry if that's a lot of questions, it's just a relatively expensive job for me and I want to be sure to do it once, do it right, and have all my research done before taking on the task.
 
Should the new tank come with instructions regarding the installation?

Yes the filter will come with a manual that explains how to install it.

I am not sure if there is pea gravel at the bottom, I've never deep cleaned the tank (which may be part of why it failed early, the learning curve is expensive) so I have never seen the bottom of the tank and I am not the original owner.

Not deep cleaning it didn't have anything to do with it failing.

Any idea how much sand this takes, or will it say in the instructions? It makes sense to me that all new sand would be measured by weight, but if I need to add sand it's just #20 pool filter sand, yeah? And my final question is if I need to add sand should there be marking on the inside of the tank to delineate where to fill the tank to?

The amount of sand is listed in the manual as well. It takes 600 lbs of sand, or 150 lbs of pea gravel and 450 lbs of sand. There's also a chart in the manual about how full the vessel should be. It's 11¼" from the top of the vessel to the sand.

Thanks so much for the replies! Sorry if that's a lot of questions, it's just a relatively expensive job for me and I want to be sure to do it once, do it right, and have all my research done before taking on the task.

I certainly don't blame you for that. Since your sand is relatively new it shouldn't be hard to clean. I would suggest you deep clean in while it's in the old filter and then vacuum it out and store it on a tarp until you get ready to put it in the new filter. Then you can add whatever you need to it if it requires any.
 
Yes the filter will come with a manual that explains how to install it.

Not deep cleaning it didn't have anything to do with it failing.
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Thanks Again for the replies, Mr. Bama! You have inspired me to tackle it myself. I appreciate your time.

Any ideas what would cause a 3 year old fiberglass tank to fail? What I have is bleeding out the sides of the tank with no visible cracks. I realized that the manifold which rotates the popups on and off (the dome with a bunch of gears that spin and lift the glass balls) was worn out and the popups weren't rotating. One tech surmised that this was perhaps getting caught in between stations and causing my pressures to go high. After back wash at the popups I am currently reading 25lbs in the skimmer or main drain position, 19 lbs with the water returning to the upper returns through the diverter valve (bypassing the popup system). The overall general consensus seems to be that the tank failed due to prolonged high pressures in the tank.

One place said 25 lbs is way high, another said that 25 is reasonable for a popup system. I just want to be sure I am not going to repeat past mistakes. The Pentair manual doesn't seem to list a maximum operating pressure for the Triton II.
 
A normal centrifugal pool pump won't develop enough pressure to damage a filter. Filter vessels are designed to withstand 50 PSIG or greater, so 25 PSIG isn't going to damage it. And yes, 25 PSIG is normal for infloor cleaning systems.

I suspect a manufacturing defect that took a while to show up.
 
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