initial pump/filter start up.

[splashpad]

I've quoted and reordered your post =) And shared lots of personal experience & research info!

Is there a correct order i need to achieve target numbers?

Yes, you must balance the PH first. ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

Do i understand correctly that if ph is higher than what kit can read i need to calculate it in pool math as 8.2 to determine qty of muratic to use?
and ph was over what k1000 would register... , some muratic to lower ph

- Some as in very little, it doesn't take much PoolMath
- I would *suggest*
-- assume starting PH of 8.2
--- treat with an initial target of 7.8 (using muriatic acid), as a safe starting point
---- you do NOT want to go to low/to fast
----- get the PH into a range where you can test it, then start lowering/aiming for a comfortable/treatable PH
- Does the TF100 not have a acid demand test? or Total alkalinity?

Tf100 kit arrived today. Tested chlorine/ph with k1000 kit. Fc didnt show up ... 128 oz of 10% bleach.

You will want to add enough for a (daily) maintenance target of FC3-5 [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA], a higher FC level will be required for SLAM Process

Did cya test, it was 0. Using pool math I need just under 8 lbs of stabilizer to hit 75 on cya

For reasonable SLAM Process (since you are starting at 0, as already recommended above), I wouldn't dose CYA over 30 [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]

Like don't add bleach till cya is at 75%?
I thought I read something that said if i use dry stabilizer that i need to wait a week to retest.

- You can slowly add bleach (with pump on) in front of a return at anytime (as long as noone is in the pool). It just won't be able to resist the UV rays without CYA present.
- 75% of what? CYA takes at least 24hrs to fully dissolve and disperse (and properly register in the CYA turbidity tube test), you do not want a CYA level over 50 for most pool situations. We have intense summers here and our CYA is kept at 30-40, no green & no problems with large FC loss (we DO use a clear bubble solar cover, I'm sure it's related)
- Per ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry, find the CYA dosage for your pool and put that amount in a (clean) sock in front of your return, it is safe to squeeze the sock to help with dissolving.
- After that *Assume* your CYA level stays the same. You can test CYA bi-weekly or after large volume of water replacement

Do I add all these chemicals one after the other, wait 5 min and retest?

No = Do not add the chemicals at the same time
Yes, you should test your FC/CC or PH about 1 hour after adding each treatment (per SLAM Process process, still not testing more then once per hour)

In the pools current state, if i get the chemicals right, how long till I can swim?

Within a couple hours *IF*
3+) FC is over 3ppm but under your pool's CYA shock level (FC=16 @ CYA=40)
0) CC is 0 or 0.5pp (Just for example:: this means if you are using the yellow dye drop test, the sample is the SAME color @2-5sec AND at 3min!! If it gets darker after 5 sec, it's NOT safe to swim yet)
7.2) PH is mid range (7.2-7.8)
- It would be recommended to add the shock level of chlorine in the evening after everyone is done swimming. (plus less UV interference)
- It's a safe practice to always test chlorine & PH before swimming (especially when things aren't stable, yet)
! If you can "smell" chlorine, it's not safe to swim!

Sorry for these noob questions, just trying to get the kids in the water with out their hair falling out or melting skin

Never be sorry for asking questions! It helps all of us get it right the first time! (or nearly so)
Sorry for the info overload!

 

[xFLYNNx]

Thanks for all that feed back Splash and everyone else for that matter. So I've not been checking the PH every time I check the FC. Once I got the PH to 7.2, which only took one dose of MA to achieve, and then added stabilizer to get cya to 30 I began SLAM Saturday night, 26th.

I'm checking FC and adding 8.25% bleach 3-4 times a day, using pool math and the TF100 kit is making this simple to do. I did check the PH late Monday night, 28th, and it was still at 7.2. At the same time I rechecked CYA and it was 1/2 between 30-40 on the tube. So I assumed that I was at 35 and adjusted pool math to match that making slam FC goal 14.

Pressure gauge on filter from the 1st time it came under pressure was 15 psi, it's crept up to 18.5-19, I backwashed this morning till water ran clear. When I put the filter back to filter mode the psi is back to 15-16 psi.

The water is still cloudy, but I can now see my brush head while cleaning the floor. I can now faintly see the pattern in the bottom of my liner.

So as I understand this process, it could take another week or so to clear this water out and in the mean time it's completely fine to swim in it.

If anyone would like to reassure me that I'm doing this correctly I'd be greatly appreciated. I actually took scrutiny over not running my SWG during this process also. I've been told that all I need to do is add store bought shock and run the tar out of my SWG to get the water clear.

 

[Texas Splash]

You look to be on the right track. Regular bleach from your local HEB or Wal-mart will work wonders during the SLAM, is fairly cheap, and easy to dose. Consistency and patience are key now. Let the bleach do it's thing while you are vigilant to brush all areas of the pool, to include cleaning the skimmer area and any/all ledges exposed to water. If you have a ladder that can be removed, do that as well to thoroughly inspect/clean it. Ladder steps are notorious for hiding algae. Same with pool lights (behind them) if you have one. Good luck!

 

[Teald024]

Flynn, It looks like you have things well under control.
Don't test pH while you are doing the SLAM. The pH test is invalid whenever the FC is above 10 ppm, so there is no point in testing it.
Your CYA level is above 30, use the FC level based on 40.
The reason that you don't use the SWG is that it has a finite number of hours in it's life. You can either run the heck out of your $500 SWG and cut months off it's life or you can pour in a few $3 bottles of bleach. The SWG alone will likely not keep up with chlorine demand. With the bleach you know how much chlorine is going in the water, there's no guessing. The bleach is also an instant add whereas the SWG takes a whole day to add the same amount of chlorine (or less).
Go compare the cost of a bottle of bleach and the FC in it against the cost of a pack of solid chlorine that will add CYA also.

 

[xFLYNNx]

Good I feel much more confident. Silly as it may sound, the kids are actually getting into checking the water with me, it's like a science experiment. I see checking PH and FC will be "THEIR" chores once we get it under control this 1st go around, haha.

I'll bump up to CYA 40 pool math. I can pull the ladder out and it sounds like a spray bottle full of bleach to scrub it down by itself wouldn't be a bad idea for prior to putting it in the pool I sprayed it down pretty good with a hose, it was filthy for it had been sitting in someones yard for a couple years. Seeing Texas Splash statement on cleaning in general I need to do a bit more scrubbing in order to get past the SLAM quicker.

Great Value bleach at wally world is $2.98 for 8.25% 121 oz bottles, fyi. Our lowe's sells 10% kemtech clorine for $4.72 per 128 oz.

Thanks for the input!

 

[Teald024]

Don't add any CYA! Lol. Keep CYA as low as you can while in the SLAM process.

 

[xFLYNNx]

Understood @teald024, I meant I'll start adding the bleach based of a CYA 40 reading, probably didn't post that clearly myself. By the way Teald, what did your electricity bill go up on average after you got up an running, we have the same size pool. I've got a 1 sp 1.5 hp pump vs your 2 sp 2 hp, I'm hoping that I can keep it between $50-75 a month.

 

[Teald024]

No problem.
My kiddos like to help with the testing also, lol. Especially the CH and TA color change tests. I've used the OTO test to show "how many kids pee'd in the pool" depending on how yellow the test is. They all stare around pointing fingers.

As for the electric cost increase? I honestly don't know. My wife pays the bills... with "my" money of course... just kidding, it's all her money.
I've tested the power consumption and I pull about 225 Watts on low speed and 1100-1200 Watts on high speed. Definitely a significant difference. I usually run LS 24/7. I probably could cut back runtime, but I haven't invested in a timer since my pump has a 20A twist-lock plug. I will say that my 2HP pump is oversized for the application. 2speed pumps are worth the investment.

 

[splashpad]

Thanks for all that feed back Splash and everyone else for that matter. So I've not been checking the PH every time I check the FC. Once I got the PH to 7.2, which only took one dose of MA to achieve, and then added stabilizer to get cya to 30 I began SLAM Saturday night, 26th.

Awesome! Sounds good!

I'm checking FC and adding 8.25% bleach 3-4 times a day, using pool math and the TF100 kit is making this simple to do. I did check the PH late Monday night, 28th, and it was still at 7.2. At the same time I rechecked CYA and it was 1/2 between 30-40 on the tube. So I assumed that I was at 35 and adjusted pool math to match that making slam FC goal 14.

Already covered earlier, good job!

Pressure gauge on filter from the 1st time it came under pressure was 15 psi, it's crept up to 18.5-19, I backwashed this morning till water ran clear. When I put the filter back to filter mode the psi is back to 15-16 psi.

Perfect! I think most run it up to about 15-20% over "clean" pressure, so that sounds right

The water is still cloudy, but I can now see my brush head while cleaning the floor. I can now faintly see the pattern in the bottom of my liner.

This will clear with adequate circulation getting the pool water into the sand filter. Also on weekends if you can babysit the sand filter and let it get a little dirtier, this will start to clear out even more (I've seen it mentioned on here a dirty sand filter clears better, there is a long explanation why, but you don't want your filter system under too much pressure for too long)!

So as I understand this process, it could take another week or so to clear this water out and in the mean time it's completely fine to swim in it.

Probably and yes

If anyone would like to reassure me that I'm doing this correctly I'd be greatly appreciated. I actually took scrutiny over not running my SWG during this process also. I've been told that all I need to do is add store bought shock and run the tar out of my SWG to get the water clear.

You are doing it exactly right, I'll throw another vote out there for patience! Patience is the key to TFP water!
Already addressed, but no pucks and protect your SWG!

 

[xFLYNNx]

Hey good morning!

Great news, pool is looking fantastic... just built steps and have been regularly swimming with the wife and kids. With a little luck we may get another month of swim time down here.

I believe I'm at the tail end of my 1st slam. Add bleach at 530 pm yesterday to get it to 16. At 9pm checked it and was at 14. Checked again this morning 30 min before sun up and I have at 12.5 w/ cc of .5. Once that OCLT holds to -1 or less of FC level from night before I can then follow the balance for swg pools.

At this point I've been SLAM'n for 14 days... I'll be honest I been brushing every other day and only adding bleach in the morning and in the evening so I've probably not helped myself get the process over as quick as it could've been. But anywho we'll get there.

Thanks again for feedback and help getting this NOOOB going!

 

[needsajet]

Great job, Flynn. All us poolies can do is whatever fits life! And thanks for being open; it's helpful to others

 

[xFLYNNx]

What an awesome resource it really is, TFP.com and the web in general. BTW, FC held over night, water is crystal clear, and cc is at .5... I turned the pump off today for the 1st time since getting the skimmer installed. That electricity bill was definitely up for the month , ouch. So I'm going to read up on it more today but I recall reading that starting with 4 hr a day run time would be a good start. I can't wait to get home and use POOL MATH, get that SWG going, start working towards getting the rest of my numbers in place...

Then all we need is the 10 day forecast to stay the course and let the summer stay till about mid October, ya'd have never heard me ask for the TX summer to stay prior to owning a pool, haha.

 

[needsajet]

Good luck with the weather and yeh, having a pool makes a big difference with what sort of weather you want, haha.

Glad to hear you've got the pool going the direction you like. Yep, 4 hours is likely to be enough for filtration. Start your SWG off at 100% and then if you see FC going up, you can dial it back a bit to adjust.