Initial Equipment Set-Up / Programming?

darude

Member
May 14, 2025
6
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Pool Size
5200
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-20
Hi. Brand new pool owner here...just starting to learn...so I've got some questions that are likely pretty basic for the veterans in the crowd. Apologies in advance for my ignorance! I've read through all the Pool School articles and browsed the forums and wikis, but some foundational questions still linger.

Essentially, I'm trying to understand how all the equipment interacts together to produce the desired results, and then how I should program/automate everything with my IntelliCenter.

I've got a pretty good grasp on my filter, so no issues there.
And I understand from Pool School that my SWG produces FC when my pump is running (according to the SWG % setting that I select).
And obviously I know what a heater does :D

But setting everything up efficiently and effectively remains a bit of a mystery. For example...

For the pump:
-I've heard that the SWG will not kick in unless the pump is running at a certain speed, but I can't find anything further on this. Is there any truth to this? If so, what speed should I be running it on?
-I'm also not sure what would be the best set-up in terms of run time. I understand the principles of running it long enough for the SWG to produce sufficient FC and keep the pool free of debris (and the recommendation of starting with 8 hours/day at lower speeds). I've also spoken with people who swear by running the pump 24/7 to produce FC more evenly over time, and I note that Pool School states "With a salt water pool, chlorine is typically added all day (running the pump 24/7) at slow speeds, with the SWG constantly adding chlorine, hence the likelihood of algae is greatly reduced". Should I be interpreting this quotation as I should be running my pump 24/7 and, if so, at what speed (or should I set it up to run at different speeds at different times)? Really struggling to understand the tipping point between keeping the pool sanitized / clean and paying unnecessarily for electricity consumption!
-Others have recommended to me to run the pump for 8 hours (or whatever it takes) overnight when electricity is cheapest, and also when actively using the pool to keep the circulation flowing, which makes sense to me.
-Finally, I take it that I should be running the pump while/after adding any and all chemicals, correct? I gather that higher speeds will obviously distribute the chemicals quicker, but am I correct in assuming there is no need to crank the pump up faster if I am in no rush for the chemicals to work their magic (e.g. adding chemicals in the evening once all finished with swimming for the day)? And is 30 minutes enough to mix everything in?

Now, for the heater:
-I read somewhere (can't remember where, but it was before I discovered TFP) that the SWG only produced FC when the water temperature is above ~66 deg. Any truth to that? If so, I assume I should be programming my heater to keep the water temp at this level as a bare minimum? (really only applicable in early-Spring / late-Fall where I live when I'm trying to squeeze out that last bit of swim time during the shoulder seasons!).
-As a steady state though (e.g. throughout the summer when air/water temps are naturally warmer), are there any best practices for heater programming (e.g. set it to come on at a certain time and to a certain temp everyday, or just turn it on manually a few hours before wanting to take a dip)? I do have a solar blanket which I use regularly to preserve heat.
-Finally, a local pool store told me that the pump needs to be running for at least 5 minutes before the heater is turned on, and remain running for 5 minutes after the heater is turned off, or else there is a risk that the heater could cause damage to the PVC pipes with no water circulation. They even had a picture of a melted pipe as evidence. I asked around and none of my pool-owning friends had ever heard of that. Any truth to this, or was the store cherry-picking a one-off example as a cautionary tale? They used this example as justification for keeping the pump running 24/7...they didn't try to sell me anything related.

Like I said at the beginning of this post (which turned out to be longer than I intended - sorry!), I'm really just trying to get a baseline for how to set everything up. I'm sure I'll become more comfortable with my equipment and able to make adjustments with time. But, for now, I'm hoping to better understand the basics of how the components interact so I don't program things in a way that is unnecessary or counterproductive.

Lots of questions here, so if anyone can point me to a good article, forum post, YouTube video, etc that explains some of this, that would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.
 
D,

Who installed your IntelliCenter and SWCG?? Did they program it at all??

Did the IntelliCenter come with an Internal Power Center, or an External Power Center?

Is your VS pump running on any kind of schedule now??

Please show us a pic or two of the Inside of your IntelliCenter so we can see all the breakers and relays.. I want to make sure your salt system is installed correctly..

I run 24/7 and love it.. but, the cost of your electricity is really the deciding factor.. Do you have a set electrical rate, or does your rate change based on the time of day??

If wired correctly, IntelliCenter will not allow the salt cell to work unless the pump is 'supposed' to be running.. Basically, if the system is in AUTO and either the Pool mode or the Spa mode, then cell will be turned on... The cell needs a minimum amount of flow, determined by a flow switch in the cell itself.. not the IntelliCenter.. The speed that turns on the flow switch varies pool to pool, so that is some thing that you will have to experiment with to figure out what works for your pool.. Since you have a heater, my 'guess' would be between 1500 and 2000 rpm..

If you can get us some more info, we can get you pointed in the right direction..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
-I've heard that the SWG will not kick in unless the pump is running at a certain speed, but I can't find anything further on this. Is there any truth to this? If so, what speed should I be running it on?

Whatever pump speed is sufficient to engage the flow switch. The speed depends on your equipment and plumbing. It can range from 600 RPM to 2200 RPM.

-I'm also not sure what would be the best set-up in terms of run time. I understand the principles of running it long enough for the SWG to produce sufficient FC and keep the pool free of debris (and the recommendation of starting with 8 hours/day at lower speeds). I've also spoken with people who swear by running the pump 24/7 to produce FC more evenly over time, and I note that Pool School states "With a salt water pool, chlorine is typically added all day (running the pump 24/7) at slow speeds, with the SWG constantly adding chlorine, hence the likelihood of algae is greatly reduced". Should I be interpreting this quotation as I should be running my pump 24/7 and, if so, at what speed (or should I set it up to run at different speeds at different times)? Really struggling to understand the tipping point between keeping the pool sanitized / clean and paying unnecessarily for electricity consumption!

Again, depends on your equipment, local environment, and electrical costs. There is no one general answer.

You run your pump for a reason as discussed in Pump Basics - Further Reading

-Others have recommended to me to run the pump for 8 hours (or whatever it takes) overnight when electricity is cheapest, and also when actively using the pool to keep the circulation flowing, which makes sense to me.

If that pump runtime keeps your pool clean and chlorinated than do it.

-Finally, I take it that I should be running the pump while/after adding any and all chemicals, correct?

Yes

I gather that higher speeds will obviously distribute the chemicals quicker, but am I correct in assuming there is no need to crank the pump up faster if I am in no rush for the chemicals to work their magic (e.g. adding chemicals in the evening once all finished with swimming for the day)?

Depends. I would not mix chemicals at 600 RPM. A mid-range speed around 1800 RPM is fine. No reason to crank the pump up to max speeds just to mix chemicals.

And is 30 minutes enough to mix everything in?

Depends on the chemical.

Solid chemicals like salt, stabilizer, and calcium take longer to dissolve and distribute in the pool.

They can take 24-48 hours.

-I read somewhere (can't remember where, but it was before I discovered TFP) that the SWG only produced FC when the water temperature is above ~66 deg. Any truth to that? I

Yes, read your SWG manual for its cold water shutoff temperature.

f so, I assume I should be programming my heater to keep the water temp at this level as a bare minimum? (really only applicable in early-Spring / late-Fall where I live when I'm trying to squeeze out that last bit of swim time during the shoulder seasons!).

No, Unless your gas is inexpensive it is better to switch to using liquid chlorine when you hit cold water shutoff of the SWG.

And beware of Heater Condensation - Further Reading that can damage your heater.

-As a steady state though (e.g. throughout the summer when air/water temps are naturally warmer), are there any best practices for heater programming (e.g. set it to come on at a certain time and to a certain temp everyday, or just turn it on manually a few hours before wanting to take a dip)? I do have a solar blanket which I use regularly to preserve heat.

Heat on demand before swimming begins.

-Finally, a local pool store told me that the pump needs to be running for at least 5 minutes before the heater is turned on, and remain running for 5 minutes after the heater is turned off, or else there is a risk that the heater could cause damage to the PVC pipes with no water circulation. They even had a picture of a melted pipe as evidence. I asked around and none of my pool-owning friends had ever heard of that. Any truth to this, or was the store cherry-picking a one-off example as a cautionary tale? They used this example as justification for keeping the pump running 24/7...they didn't try to sell me anything related.

Depends on the heater and plumbing. Consult the heater manual and see if it has any cooldown requirement after shutoff.

Melted PVC more often occur due to heaters running with insufficient water flow or running with no water flow.

Lots of questions here, so if anyone can point me to a good article, forum post, YouTube video, etc that explains some of this, that would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.
Most of your answers will be unique to your pool and you need to experiment and find out what works best.
 
Who installed your IntelliCenter and SWCG?? Did they program it at all??
My pool builder installed all the equipment for me and they did set it up for basic operation. They did a great job building the pool but when it came time to teach me how to use the equipment they were keen to move on to the next job rather than spend time giving me an in-depth tutorial. So I'm playing catch-up here!

Did the IntelliCenter come with an Internal Power Center, or an External Power Center?
I'm not familiar with the terminology, but it's all one unit (sub-panel and IntelliCenter) so I'm assuming that means Internal.

Is your VS pump running on any kind of schedule now??
Yes. It's still set to what the pool builder programmed it for before they left. The pump runs 7pm-7am every night at 3050 rpm, and the SWG is set to 50%. Not sure if that's reasonable or not.

Please show us a pic or two of the Inside of your IntelliCenter so we can see all the breakers and relays.. I want to make sure your salt system is installed correctly..
I've attached a pic or the inside of the breaker panel as well as one of the inside of the low voltage breakers for the IntelliChlor. Hope that's what you were looking for.

I run 24/7 and love it.. but, the cost of your electricity is really the deciding factor.. Do you have a set electrical rate, or does your rate change based on the time of day??
I have the option of either time-of-use billing or flat-rate billing, and I can switch back-and-forth any time. I'm on time-of-use so I pay more during peak hours and less overnight and all day on weekends.


Thank you for the additional information. I spent some time on the Pentair website this morning downloading all of the manuals. I'll start reading those to get a better understanding of it all.

Appreciate your help!
 

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D,

Thanks for the pics..

Your system has an Internal SWCG power center.. you can tell because it has the very large transformer, and SWCG a circuit breaker.

Running your pump at 3050 rpm is insane!!! There is just no reason to run your pump that fast. I would suggest that you lower the speed to 2000 rpm and see how it goes.. We recommend running at a speed that turns on your cell's flow switch plus about 100 rpm, just to make sure.. I run at 1200 rpm, but I have no heater.. With a heater, my guess would be that you will have to run 1500 to 1800 rpm to keep the flow switch closed and the cell working.

As far as the cell's output setting, 50% is most likely a little high this time of year.. You have to test your water and determine what your FC (Chlorine) level is.. You then will need to adjust the cell's output up, or down, to keep your FC at the desired point.

Are you going to be maintaining the pool water, or is this something your pool builder will be doing?

Your cell will produce about 16 ppm of FC in a pool your size, when running 24/7 at 100% output. So, that would be .66 ppm per hour of operation. Since your pump is running 12 hours a day, the would about 8 ppm per day.. And with the cell's output set to 50% that would be about 4 ppm a day.. I would think that is a little high this time of year but the only way to know is to test and see what your FC is now..

The sun will quickly consume your FC unless there is some CYA (Stabilizer) in the water. For saltwater pools, we recommend a CYA of about 60 or 70 ppm...

The saltwater section of this chart is used to determine your Target FC, based on your CYA level..

FC/CYA Levels

Thanks,

Jim R.