Inconsistency between salt cell PPM readings & instant readings

DAnton

New member
Jul 1, 2024
3
Texas
Morning!

Over the past month we've had quite the storms hitting us here in Houston, I noticed that i continually was having to add salt to maintain ~3600 PPM per my salt cell read out. Due to this, i started to become concerned that the readings were not accurate, so I purchased a salinity reading device off of Amazon & as I suspected the pool is actually near 5500 PPMs.

I am in the process of backwashing & refilling to get the levels down, but am concerned that the salt cell will continue to not read inline with the actual values & essentially stop producing chlorine due to a "low salt level"

I have not taken the salt cell to Leslies yet to be tested, but as of now we have not had any issues with it not producing chlorine as the test strips seem to be in line.

I've done some research & it looks like I may be able to recalibrate it? Cell is roughly two years old, so unsure if it maybe its on it last leg? Just looking for some pointers on where to start diagnosing this problem.
 
Hi DAnton, welcome to TFC :cool:
I myself prefer to test the salt with a classic drop tester (K-1766 Taylor kit) as i never could figure out how to calibrate a little battery tester device? The drop test is most accurate, IMO.

If you feel comfortable with your tester device's salt reading, I would trust that over the salt cell itself. I like to say "They're lying" and the method they use to arrive at a "level" is different from actual testing. I never make changes to my pool based on the cell reading.

Trust your testing and proceed from there. Add less than the recommended amount and let that go for a few days and then recheck. Don't over add, as that doesn't give you any more *ooomph* for your money.

Check for salt in the Water conditioner area of plumbing. Cheaper, comes more like ice cubes but works just great as you brush it around. Do NOT buy Clorox brand as its been found to have some iron contamination in the product at times.

Maddie 🇮🇹
 
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FROM POOL SCHOOL ARTICLE:
The best thing to use to raise the salt level is water softener salt. Look for salt that is 99.4% pure or better and doesn’t have any rust inhibitor or other additives. The best choices include Diamond Crystal® Solar Salt Extra Coarse Crystals in blue bags, Morton® White Crystal® Water Softener Salt in blue bags, or Diamond Crystal® Sun Gems® Crystals Water Softener Salt in yellow bags.


Water softener salt pellets will also work, they will simply take more time to dissolve. Pool salt is also fine to use, though it tends to be much more expensive. Potassium chloride will also work, but you need 28% more of it and it is more expensive. Avoid table salt, rock salt, and deicing salt.


Salt can simply be dumped into the pool. Spread it around a bit with a brush so there aren’t any large piles, and leave the pump running for 24 hours after adding salt. If you have a SWG, it should be turned off while you are adding salt and for the next 24 hours.
 
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What model salt cell are we discussing?
 
I noticed that i continually was having to add salt to maintain ~3600 PPM per my salt cell read out.

You should never add salt based solely on your salt cell read out. It is not accurate as the cell ages.

I am in the process of backwashing & refilling to get the levels down, but am concerned that the salt cell will continue to not read inline with the actual values & essentially stop producing chlorine due to a "low salt level"

Get your actual salt level down into the 3000 range.

If your cell reads low sat then it is depelted and needs replacement.
I've done some research & it looks like I may be able to recalibrate it? Cell is roughly two years old, so unsure if it maybe its on it last leg? Just looking for some pointers on where to start diagnosing this problem.

There is no recalibration on your system.

full
 
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