In the planning stages looking for advice (Austin, TX)

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drewhiggs

drewhiggs

0
Silver Supporter
Jul 9, 2017
98
Georgetown, TX
Hi,

I'm new to the forum and I was looking for advice/input while I'm in the planning stages. After interviewing several pool builders we signed a pool agreement this last weekend. I would welcome any advice on changes you would recommend. We have our design consultation next week, where I'm sure they will try to up-sale us on features. Based on the information below, would you make any changes?

Type: IG
Interior Finish: Pebble Plaster
Gallons: 13,644
Size: 16'x31'
Surface SqFt: 383
Pool depth: 3'-6'
Pool Filter: 460 SqFt Cartridge Filter
Pool Pump: Jandy 2HP 2 speed
Sanitization Equipment: Fusion Chlorine
Return Lines: 3
Deck Material: Kool Kote

View attachment 66502
 
Welcome to the forum!

Beautiful pool.

I would suggest removing the 'Fusion Chlorine' and replacing with a SWCG that is designed for a 30000 gallon pool or greater.

Take care!!
 
Drew,

Welcome to TFP... A Great resource for fending off pool builder's "Magic"... :snorkle:

My normal advice to all new pool builders is to avoid using "magic" to chlorinate your pool... Things like UV, Ozone, or Mineral systems, like the Fusion system in your list... are all magic, unfortunately none of them have the rabbit...

See this recent thread on the same subject... Fusion Soft Cell vs SWG

Other than that I do not see any red flags...

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.
 
What is it with Texas pool builders?!? Really do not like SWCG's --

There is anecdotal evidence that some natural stone is degraded around pools. Though it is degraded not around the same pools. A chlorine pool still has salt in it.

Others here from Texas will chime in -- but no - it is not a big deal to have SWCG around your stone IF you keep your water balanced.

Some seal the stone for extra precaution.

Take care.
 
Drew,

Saltwater pools get blamed for everything... I have three saltwater pools and have had no negative results with any of them. One of them has flagstone coping which is flaking... The problem is that the flaking appeared long before we converted the pool over to saltwater. Since we converted, the stones that were flaking have continued to flake and the stones right next to them that were not flaking continue to not flake... it is not a saltwater issue but a quality of stone issue. You can just look at the stones and see the difference.. One is made of very thin layers and the other is not.

On my initial post I thought you were buying a Fusion salt water and mineral system.. It appears what your pool builder wants to use is worse... :(

Your system uses both tabs of stabilized chlorine plus a mineral system. Most of the members of this forum are here because of overuse of tablets which eventually caused their pools to turn green..

Suggest you read some of the threads here about why we dislike tabs and mineral system..

Here is what we are about...ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.
 
Drew,

Either system will work fine... as long as they are rated for at least 2 x the volume of your pool... This is because salt systems are rated when running at 100% output, 24/7...

For your size pool, I would recommend that you get a cell rated for a 40K gallon pool.. (model, Aqua Pure 1400) This will allow you to run at a lower output and/or a shorter pump run time.

Yes, a salt pool is by far one of the easer pools to maintain. You still have to test and understand your water chemistry, but the pool "almost" takes care of itself.

We are all about taking care of our own pools. To do that we test our own water and stay out of the local Pool $tore... :p

When you get closer to having your pool built, I recommend that you obtain one of the two water test kits that we approve... Either the TF-100 (what I have) or the Taylor K-2006C (and yes the C is important...)

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.

- - - Updated - - -

And.. if you follow the TFP principles...

1. You don't have to add "shock" to your pool on a weekly basis
2. Your pool will not smell like a public pool
3. Your pool will be crystal clear and sanitized for save use.
4. Your neighbors will wonder why your pool is so much better than theirs... :cool:
 
When you get your test kit, the TF-100 comes with more of the reagents that you use more often, especially if you ever have to SLAM your pool. You can also get the XL option to get even more reagents to test your chlorine level, which is still very important in a SWG pool, especially while dialing in you SWG to produce enough chlorine without producing too much. You should also grab the salt drop based test too.
 
Might want to consider automation as it works quite well with the SWG and you can control everything off your phone or pad. No mention of lighting, I'd likely opt for 2 minimum and probably 3 would be my choice. Good luck with your build.

Salty
 

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This forum is going to be my new best friend. I've bookmarked the test kits above, so I'll purchase them before the pool is complete.

As for the light, he has one LED light quoted for installation. I asked about a second and he said it wasn't needed. I'm finding that the pool builder is not in tune with the average pool owner.

Depending on the cost he quotes for the Aqua Pure 1400, is it difficult to install after the installation?


 
I've never had an IG pool of my own, nor have I ever dealt with a contractor for a pool installation, but your contractor and a couple others I've read about on here seem to be more about selling you what they want, rather than what you actually want. Are all pool contractors like that? Sounds a lot like the bull you get from a Pool Store selling chemicals.
 
Drew, you list your pool as 13.6k gallons, but PoolMath says your pool should 16.7k (16’ wide, 31’ long, average depth of 4.5) will it have a very short deep end with a long shallow end? Getting your gallons close to accurate helps a lot in balancing your pool.

- - - Updated - - -

houston_tink said:
Am I allowed to ask (if you are willing to share) who your pool builder might be? We are in the same area and the fact that they are recommending a Jandy fusion system gives me the inkling we may have had the same builder
Click to expand...

Post 7, he links to a site which I assume is his contractor’s.
 
Personally I'd have a second light; one at each end or at least close to each end, if you can afford it. My pool has a single light and while it is larger than yours (22k gallons), I find it lights up the deep end very well and leaves a bit to be desired in the shallow area on the opposite end of the pool.

Here's a photo I just took to demonstrate. Please ignore the crud on the bottom of my pool, yes, I know I need to vacuum it. :rolleyes: Photo was taken from my back porch about 60ft from the pool.

Speaking of which -- if you use the TFP method of keeping your pool clean, you too will be able to see any crud on the bottom of your deep end from 60ft away. ;) It is both a blessing and a curse. Crystal-clear water is great but it also means you can see every leaf, grass-clipping, and bug that gets in your pool, and they'll annoy you to no end. Thus, a pool robot is probably a good idea if you haven't put that on your wishlist.

gTjwPI7.jpg
 
Houston - I'm using Anthony & Sylvan. We interviewed 3 traditional pool builders and 2 fiberglass pool installers. My sister-in-law used them 4 years ago with very few issues. I believe they also have a fusion chlorine generator, but their pool has never looked as clear as some of the pools I've seen here which sells me on the tfp method.

Lightmaster - the 13k gallon pool was quoted by the pb. I'm assuming it is less because of the sun shelf and the fact that it is free form and not rectangular.

sccm - thanks for the picture. I'll have to see how much a second costs and go from there. I'm really thinking I want a gas heater which will add another 5k, so has to be some give and take some where. Btw.....I like the name. We use sccm where I work. I'm in networking so I don't personally deploy images and packages with it, but have used it from time to time.

Still researching a vacuum. If you guys have any recommendations, throw them at me.
 
drewhiggs said:
sccm - thanks for the picture. I'll have to see how much a second costs and go from there. I'm really thinking I want a gas heater which will add another 5k, so has to be some give and take some where. Btw.....I like the name. We use sccm where I work. I'm in networking so I don't personally deploy images and packages with it, but have used it from time to time.

Still researching a vacuum. If you guys have any recommendations, throw them at me.
Click to expand...
I'd say my post regarding a second light was really more of a 'want' rather than a 'need'. If you get the water clear enough it will still be pretty bright, even with one light.

Ironically enough I thought I was going to end up in networking (got my CCNA in high school) but ended up doing this. Funny world. :cool:

Whatever vacuum you get, I recommend you DON'T do it manually. Only because you have to vacuum to waste, which can really lower the water level depending on how long you have to vacuum. 10-15 minutes of vacuuming at 40-50gpm and you've sucked 400-750 gallons out of your pool just to remove some dirt and leaves. Then you have to re-fill it afterwards and make sure there's enough chlorine for that new water, blah blah blah. Plus it's annoying and time-consuming.
 

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