I installed my Hayward swim pure plus in 2014. Circuit board going bad already???? I could not get the instant salinity to update the salt reading. The pool company that services Hayward came out and used their t-cell and the same thing happened. Service tech is educated guessing a circuit board went bad. He said Hayward and pentair SWG are lasting about 5-6 years?? Really?
In disbelief
- Thread starter wpturner05
- Start date
What are the diagnostic readings?
What is the actual salinity as tested by a good test kit?
What is the actual salinity as tested by a good test kit?
I have the test kit from TFtest kits. I get 3000.
What diagnostic readings are you looking for? (Sorry - I’m not exactly sure what you mean?)
What diagnostic readings are you looking for? (Sorry - I’m not exactly sure what you mean?)
- May 3, 2014
- 62,717
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
From the manual:
Sequential pushes of the small "diagnostic" button next to the LCD display will cause
the Aqua Rite to display the following information:
1. Pool temperature (xx degrees Fahrenheit or Celsius)
2. Cell voltage (xx.x volts)
3. Cell current (x.xx amps)
4. Desired Output % ("0P" -- "100P" depending on knob position or input from remote
pool automation controller)
5. Instant salinity ( -xxxx ppm or -x.xx grams/Liter)
6. Product name sent to the pool automation control display ("AL-0" which signifies
"Aqua Rite")
7. Software revision level (r1.xx)
8. Chlorinator cell type (t-3, t-5, t-9, t-15)
On the 9th push of the button the display will revert back to the default salt display.
Also, if the button is not pushed for 30 seconds, the display will revert back to the
standard salt display.
Also, what is the cell model number?
Make sure that the cell type matches the settings.
Make sure that the cell type matches the settings.
So - I went out to get the diagnostic readings. And for 'why not's sake' I tried to reset the salinity reading ....aaaand it corrected *sigh*. I am guessing it is a good problem to have. I am hopeful it stays that way.
Here are the numbers when it was not corrected and not generating
85
32.7
0
33
-0
AL-0
R 1.59
t-15
Once I got it up and running and showing salinity
85
26.5
6.78
19
-3000
AL-0
R 1.59
t-15
ALSO!! of note - I had been having this problem last week, I was able to get it to correctly read over the weekend and then when the pump started up on Monday - it had read 1600 and the inspect cell and check salt lights would either illuminate or blink.
Here are the numbers when it was not corrected and not generating
85
32.7
0
33
-0
AL-0
R 1.59
t-15
Once I got it up and running and showing salinity
85
26.5
6.78
19
-3000
AL-0
R 1.59
t-15
ALSO!! of note - I had been having this problem last week, I was able to get it to correctly read over the weekend and then when the pump started up on Monday - it had read 1600 and the inspect cell and check salt lights would either illuminate or blink.
Last edited:
Does the cell shut off when the pump shuts off?
Does the no flow light come on when the pump is off?
Does the no flow light come on when the pump is off?
Ok, that points to two problems. First, the flow switch is probably bad. You need to replace that. Second, the power should be removed when the pump is off in case the flow switch fails, so that the cell will not continue to generate. If the cell generates with the pump off, there will be a buildup of chlorine gas and hydrogen gas that can potentially explode.
Maybe I did not answer that correctly ... please please forgive my ignorance here. When you ask if the cell shuts off when the pump shuts off - are you asking if the green light is or is not still illuminated in front of ‘generating’ ? When the pump shuts off - the only light illuminated is in front of ‘power’ - nothing else is illuminated. I am sorry if I confused with my response.
When the pump shuts off, the No Flow light should be illuminated indicating that there is no flow and that the generating process has stopped. This is a safety feature designed to prevent the cell from generating with insufficient flow, which could result in a buildup of explosive gasses.
As an additional safety, when the pump shuts off, all power to the Aquarite should also be shut off.
Whenever the box is powered and the switch is in the Auto or Superchlorinate position, the Generating light should be on if the No Flow light is not on.
As an additional safety, when the pump shuts off, all power to the Aquarite should also be shut off.
Whenever the box is powered and the switch is in the Auto or Superchlorinate position, the Generating light should be on if the No Flow light is not on.
At the risk of sounding dumb - I'm going to anyway. If all the power is cut off to the board when the pumps shuts off, how does the red no flow light turn on?
This was installed in 2014 and worked seamlessly until a reconfiguration this year. For the life of me - I don't remember what it looked like when it was off. I can't remember if it was blank ....
This is what happened (in a nut shell) - I had to disconnect my pool equipment and have it replumbed this year. I was getting a new shed and the equipment is in the shed (filter, pump, timer, SWG). The pool company placed the flow switch after the pump and before the filter and the cell after the filter. They also did not do the rewiring - I had to get an electrician to do that.
I am frustrated and concerned.
This was installed in 2014 and worked seamlessly until a reconfiguration this year. For the life of me - I don't remember what it looked like when it was off. I can't remember if it was blank ....
This is what happened (in a nut shell) - I had to disconnect my pool equipment and have it replumbed this year. I was getting a new shed and the equipment is in the shed (filter, pump, timer, SWG). The pool company placed the flow switch after the pump and before the filter and the cell after the filter. They also did not do the rewiring - I had to get an electrician to do that.
I am frustrated and concerned.
Does it make a difference that my model name is swim pure plus? It looks the exact same.
It may help if you send a video of the display with the pump running and with the pump off.
What pump do you have?
If you have a single speed pump, the power to the box should be tied to the same power as the pump so that when the pump gets power, the box gets power.
If you have a variable speed pump, it's more complicated. A variable speed pump needs power all the time. So, you have to put the box on a timer that is set so that the box only has power during the time that the pump should be on.
In either case, the no flow light should come on when there is no flow.
If the power is tied to the pump power, then it's harder to verify that the flow switch is working properly.
I suspect that the cell has been running with no flow which will cause the salinity reading to be incorrect.
If you have a single speed pump, the power to the box should be tied to the same power as the pump so that when the pump gets power, the box gets power.
If you have a variable speed pump, it's more complicated. A variable speed pump needs power all the time. So, you have to put the box on a timer that is set so that the box only has power during the time that the pump should be on.
In either case, the no flow light should come on when there is no flow.
If the power is tied to the pump power, then it's harder to verify that the flow switch is working properly.
I suspect that the cell has been running with no flow which will cause the salinity reading to be incorrect.
Have you checked to make sure they didn’t put the flow switch in pointing the wrong way? It should have an arrow or something.