I'm starting to have doubts - please motivate me

I've been doing a SLAM since last Thursday.

I've gone from deep green, bubbling (some big as watermelons) swamp to the most beautiful light blue. So pretty I wanna get in, but...

Its still opaque. I cant see more than 2.5' down. Thats a big improvement, but still.

Any encouragement out there?
 
Keep at it. Obviously, you've being doing the right thing. Have you taken photos of an object in the pool to monitor your progress, like the steps on the pool? That way you can observe your progress rather than go from memory of how it looked.

Keep it up!
 
Hi max3dlee:)

It didn't get deep green overnight, it won't clear overnight. Following SLAM will clear a green mess (I promise). Can you help us help you by keeping your posts in the same thread so we can follow along. And how about post your most current test results? That would help us see if anything is going wonky with SLAM process. :)
 
Hi max3dlee:)

Can you help us help you by keeping your posts in the same thread so we can follow along. And how about post your most current test results? That would help us see if anything is going wonky with SLAM process. :)

I'll try to keep it all here :)

So I started last Thursday, but because of work, couldnt keep at it more than 4-6 hours at a time Thurs and Friday.

This weekend was pretty much every 2 hours.

This is from my spreadsheet. I did do TC tests, but didnt start tracking them until later. I also brushed, but didnt regularly keep track of it.


DateTimeTCShock (Tri)Bleach (10%)BackwashRinseVacuumBrush
8/120:304
8/26:451.5XXX
7:502
12:404.5
19:156XXX
8/37:506XXX
12:354
17:30XXX
20:004XX
22:15102
8/47:00XX
9:1024xxx
11:1010+
14:4554XX
16:00521
18:1541XXX
20:457.52
23:157.52
8/57:0033XXX
9:3010+2X
12:0036XXXX
14:4510+
16:152XXXX
20:3510+
23:00XX
8/66:2010+XXX
12:357.51XX
16:107
19:003XXXX

leezpool-day4.jpg
 
Why are you showing TC of 10+?? You should be testing FC and it should be kept at SLAM level.

What test kit are you using?

What is Shock(Tri) ??
 
Just want to check something. Does “Shock (Tri)” above mean you’re using Trichlor in your slam? If yes, please stop. That’s adding CYA to your water.
 
Good day max3dlee :)

Thanks for adding some info. What we really like to see when asking for chemical test numbers is just this line up.

FC
CC
Ph
TA
CYA
CH

CH is more important if you have a plaster pool so you may not be needing to track that. But from what you added, I'm concerned too that you may be using another for of chlorine besides liquid.

Just some reminders. Your FC number is entirely dependent upon your CYA number which I didn't see in that last bunch of tests. Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart

Using dry chlorine adds other things to your pool that do not get consumed and you may not need. Dry chlorine is stabilized by either calcium or CYA. Calcium hypochlorite (cal-hypo) adds calcium to your water which can build up to undesirable levels causing issues. Trichlor and dichlor tabs and powders are stabilized by CYA. Since the amount of FC you need to have for sanitation as well as algae killing is dependent on your CYA number, you likely don't want to be chlorinating with trichlor or dichlor but only liquid chlorine.

Whew. Lots of info. So can you post up most recent numbers along this process along with CYA?

I understand the challenges of trying to keep it up too. Being the HS and MS sports taxi after work for swimming and football this week keeps me away from home from 7:30-7:30.

But if you follow our process and ask questions, you'll get that pool clear--before Labor Day with diligence:)
 
Why are you showing TC of 10+?? You should be testing FC and it should be kept at SLAM level.


What test kit are you using?


What is Shock(Tri) ??

I bought the TF kit for DPD.

Yes, trichlor

Realizing I tried to shortcut it, I hate to say it, but I quit testing for FC and just tried to keep TC at above 10. Reading the table for shock levels vs. CYA I saw that I just had to keep shock level at 12-15, which is 10+.

Let me tell you a little story about CYA. About 6 weeks ago I tested it (right around when I first joined here) and it was 130+ (i was showing 150 at one point). So based on internet suggestions and replies here, I decided to drain the pool.

Refilled, it tested at about 50. However, due to my work schedule, I couldnt get started on the slam for another few days. When I tested it to start the slam it had just rained a lot, and the CYA wouldnt register AT ALL.

I bought stabilizer (at $38 per gallon!) and tried that. It brought up my CYA to about 30.

The chart says shock level is 12 for that CYA.

Going forward I will start testing CYA. I did not understand how important that number was. I just got mad at it and moved forward.

Additionally I quit testing for everything but TC.

Just want to check something. Does “Shock (Tri)” above mean you’re using Trichlor in your slam? If yes, please stop. That’s adding CYA to your water.

I absolutely will quit using trichlor if possible. Bleach seems to be doing a far better job and lasts longer.

I did not catch the info about trichlor raising CYA, so that explains A LOT.

I'm concerned too that you may be using another for of chlorine besides liquid.

I am :(

I will start testing CYA this evening. Unfortunately I'm out of bleach and wont have time to get to Walmart. I'm cutting it too close as it is running home at lunch to backwash and check levels.

Finally, am I understanding correctly that even during a SLAM I have to manage Ph, TA and everything else too??

Thanks so much for all the encouragement and guidance!
 
Give us a full set of test results, including CYA. Then, during the slam, you don’t need to test anything other than FC and CC. Re CYA, since you’re not going to add anymore, you won’t need to test again for about a month unless you get a bunch of rain and have to drain some water off.
 

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Okay. There are a number of folks helping on this one. But the info is kinda coming in a bit out of sync.

Since you have already started and been SLAMming for a few days, all you really need to test regularly is FC. BUT, since you were using trichlor, and therefore adding unknown amounts of CYA, you probably need to do a CYA test to make sure you know what it is and what your FC target is.
From this point forward only use liquid chlorine for your chlorine source. Either PLAIN bleach or stuff for pools, they are the same other than % of chlorine.

- - - Updated - - -

Be sure to brush as often as possible. Test and redose as often as possible. As the FC drop starts to taper off you can stretch the testing and redosing, but try to get at least 3 or 4 a day.
 
Give us a full set of test results, including CYA. Then, during the slam, you don’t need to test anything other than FC and CC. Re CYA, since you’re not going to add anymore, you won’t need to test again for about a month unless you get a bunch of rain and have to drain some water off.

Instead of going home for lunch to test levels I went to Walmart and got 12 bottles of bleach. If at all possible I will not be buying trichlor again :grrrr:

Gotta stop at Leslies and get more reagent to test CYA.

Why dont they just sell big bottles to begin with?

Will post test results in a bit.

Thanks y'all for the help!
 
Wait! You only have a DPD test? Not the FAS-DPD test with power?? Please clarify that, as you have to be able to test for FC & CC up to 50ppm.

TC means nothing to us... it could be 0 FC (the good stuff) and 10 of contaminates (the cooties) which = 10 TC, see?

Maddie :flower:
 
Test results:

FC >1 (didnt change color)
TC = 1
Ph > 6.8 (turned yellow and stayed yellow after 60 drops for acid demand test)
TA = ? Instead of turning green it went red
CYA = 90

Now I'm kinda freaked out. I looked up what red meant and with the low Ph it says if you have a vinyl pool its really bad.

Also, on the pool calculator it says I need at least 67 boxes of Borax to bring the Ph up.

This is bad, isnt it?

[edit] I did not do the FAS-DPD but I will. I just dont like doing it because I'm not sure I'm doing it correctly.

-- update --

FC = 1
CC = 1
 
With the amount of Trichlor you were adding the crashing of your pH and TA is not unexpected.

Use TA of 0 for Now and 70 for Target in PoolMath. Add Baking soda in batches, testing between each batch. Use about 10 lbs per batch.

Get about 30 lbs of Baking Soda to start.

Do this now.

- - - Updated - - -

You could also begin draining your pool to the point of leaving 1 foot of water in the shallow end to lower your CYA.
 
With the amount of Trichlor you were adding the crashing of your pH and TA is not unexpected.

Use TA of 0 for Now and 70 for Target in PoolMath. Add Baking soda in batches, testing between each batch. Use about 10 lbs per batch.

Get about 30 lbs of Baking Soda to start.

Do this now.


I just happen to have about 36lbs. I'll get'r'done now!


You could also begin draining your pool to the point of leaving 1 foot of water in the shallow end to lower your CYA.

Did that 2 weeks ago. CYA levels were over 140. Draining pool dropped it to about 50. Then the day before I wanted to start the SLAM it rained all day and my CYA dropped to > 30. Bought stabilizer and got it up to 30. It looks like rain here in a bit, so I'll wait to check CYA after.
 
The FAS-DPD FC test is the only test for FC you should be doing. It is very simple and straight forward.

Pool School - FAS-DPD Chlorine Test

A SpeedStir helps doing many of the tests much easier.

A-HA!

I've been using the directions on TFTestkits.net (where I bought the add-on kit).

The directions you provided explain a LOT.

What bothered me was I have no idea what a "heaping" spoonfull should look like. The TFTestkits directions dont explain what I was supposed to initially fill the tube up with, but a good guess is... pool water. Finally, what was driving me crazy was I'd get it clear, turn to write down results, turn back around and it was pink again. Erase results and do it again. And again. I didnt know that was supposed to happen!

Thanks for the better directions!

--update--

Added 30lb baking soda, TA is now 70! Ph is still too low to register. I have one tester that goes as low as 6.8 and its still not showing.
 
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