If I'm going to convert in the spring, would it be best to stop adding anymore CDX? Or doesn't it really make much difference by next year?

[Matt_PEBKAC_Oh]

Yes a whole month would get you a clear, TFP pool. 1-2 weeks of dumping 12% liquid chlorine should do the trick. Just before you leave, clean your filter, plumb in a SWG system, test for a week and let it go. Take your trip and enjoy knowing a crystal clear pool will be ready for you on your return!

For most of June, I have cleaned the skimmer sock, run the pool robot daily or every other day. I have only regenerated (bumped) the Hayward DE 65 unit once in 6 weeks of use, even though it had only gone up 5 psi (10 psi recommended). I have tried to test chlorine, PH levels daily since the new pool, SWG and I are in a learning/trust phase. I've been testing everything else only weekly as well as brushing the sides and ledges.

With the SWG system, I don't smell any chlorine nor feel it after swimming.

 

[anthonypool89]

SWG really sounds like that would be the way to go.

 

[anthonypool89]

As for the filter,
Keep in mind circulation during the conversion is WAY more important that filtration. You’ve mentioned in the past you’ve got the ability to run with no grids correct?

Lee...given what you said here, during the conversion process would you advise to just run the filter without the grids? Without adding extra plumbing, I can't vacuum to waste but having the grids out just runs the pool water back in to the return lines. I now have skimmer socks so could those be used during the conversion process? Is there a need to vacuum, per se, or does whatever "goop" forms float to the top and thus wind up in the skimmer?

Here's another thing: wouldn't it be a good idea before adding any chlorine to just do my usual routine - no grids to start - vacuum up as much of the debris that accumulates during the off-season and get rid of that first? THEN start adding chlorine? I typically have just relied on the pump strainer to catch most of what is on the bottom and sides of the pool but perhaps better (now that I have it) to use the vac plate and socks? I'm just thinking about the initial swampy water that I open up to and suspect it's best to tackle that first. The only difference would be - once I have most of that debris vacuumed out - to then start adding chlorine instead of the baqua chemicals.

 

[Newdude]

wouldn't it be a good idea before adding any chlorine to just do my usual routine - no grids to start - vacuum up as much of the debris that accumulates during the off-season and get rid of that first?

If you think about it, it has to come out either way. This idea would keep it all separate and not overload any given step. In my head at least.

 

[anthonypool89]

This idea would keep it all separate and not overload any given step.

I think so too. No point adding chlorine, I'd say, until the bulk of the usual accumulation of decomposed worms, leaves, etc. is out of there. Before the season starts, like early spring and still fairly cool temps, the water can actually be in quite good shape- can even see the bottom -, but once the weather warms it sure doesn't take long for it to turn green.

So the general plan of attack would appear to be: open the pool as usual, without filter grids initially till most of the gunk on the bottom is vacuumed out. Then, I'd say start adding chlorine - still without grids - but put a skimmer sock on and see just where and how much goop accumulates. There is obviously no filter pressure increase at all without grids in it. Then at least experiment with adding the grids/DE and see how long a filter cycle would go. (Up until recent years, first cycle might only be 10-20 minutes, then increasingly longer each time, although the past few years - for whatever reason - first one might go for hours. THEN, once the pool would be cleared up, sometimes the next few cycles are really short. No rhyme or reason to it. The pool makes these filter pressure decisions, not I unfortunately.) The water won't ever clear without grids, so no point leaving them out too long.

Except that the conversion is (hopefully) a once and done thing, one aspect to consider is that the amount of work required for the entire conversion process might well be considerably more than an entire season's worth of DE changes using baqua! At this point, the only reason I'm willing to do it is because of the filter pressure issue. Otherwise, I have no complaints about the constant water clarity last year and again this year. Were I getting 3-4 weeks per cycle, I'd be more than happy continuing as is.