If Calcite Saturation Index in correct range, does PH matter so much?

[Docpatel]

PoolExperts, could use your insight for a question I have:

My calcite saturation index is within acceptable range @ .16 <--- used app.poolcalculator.com

My question is this: CSI/LSI is .16, which is acceptable. BUT, my PH is high @ 8.0 (or slightly above 8.0) based on the Taylor K-2006 44 ml test kit. So does Ph matter if LSI/CSI is acceptable? I plan to user some muriatic acid today to slightly reduce the Ph back down to 7.8 but wanted to know how picky I need to be based on whats really accepable.

Here are my current readings:
Water temp: 48
Ph: 8.0, maybe 8.2
Alk: 95
Calcium: 360
CYA: 90

Yes I know some of these are out of whack.... For example, I prefer CYA to be lower but plan to change some of the water come Spring when I convert to a Salt Water system.

Thanks in advance everyone!

 

[mknauss]

A pH of 8 or so is not harmful to any pool system if CSI is within range. It can present a problem with a SWCG as scale can form on the SWCG plates if pH and TA are high, regardless of CSI. But that is an unusual circumstance.

You do not show what your FC is. Remember that a FC of 10 ppm or higher can effect pH test results. And with your high CYA, your Target Level FC is near or above 10 ppm.

Your TA of 95 is not measurable with your kit. It is tested in factors of 10. So I assume your TA is 100.

 

[Docpatel]

Thank you!

Today FC is ~3.0. Combined < .2. I haven't been using high levels of chlorine even though CYA is high, which might lead to issues I'm unaware of.

You're right on TA of 100...the color changes only slightly more red at the 10th drop so I put it @ 95...I'll start recording those as 100.

The pool is 3 months new (plaster). I read somewhere to NOT let it fall / empty below the tile level or it'll start leaving lines on the plaster....I don't know if id' see lines on the pebble-like plaster but didn't want to take a chance.

 

[mknauss]

That is very low FC with that CYA. You might get away with it when the water is cold. But once the water temperature gets close to 60F, I would get the FC level up or be prepared for algae.

 

[Docpatel]

Got it. Will do that, and convert to SWG sooner. Thank you! Super helpful!

 

[JamesW]

BUT, my PH is high @ 8.0 (or slightly above 8.0) based on the Taylor K-2006 44 ml test kit.

I would lower the pH to about 7.8 or 7.9. Otherwise it's mostly ok.

 

[proavia]

Suggest you also use PoolMath instead of poolcalculator. PoolMath is maintained by TFP - poolcalculator may or may not be maintained/accurate. You can use either the app (click link above) or the old PoolMath page (see bottom of most forum pages for Old PoolMath Webpage).

 

[Docpatel]

Suggest you also use PoolMath instead of poolcalculator. PoolMath is maintained by TFP - poolcalculator may or may not be maintained/accurate. You can use either the app (click link above) or the old PoolMath page (see bottom of most forum pages for Old PoolMath Webpage).

Ahh! I see it...thanks! I like the poolmath version better already. Didn't know there was a website version.

 

[Docpatel]

Suggest you also use PoolMath instead of poolcalculator. PoolMath is maintained by TFP - poolcalculator may or may not be maintained/accurate. You can use either the app (click link above) or the old PoolMath page (see bottom of most forum pages for Old PoolMath Webpage).

@proavia I have a chlorine pool...not saltwater....the website had default value of 1000....is that supposed to be adjusted down to 0?

 

[Leebo]

@proavia I have a chlorine pool...not saltwater....the website had default value of 1000....is that supposed to be adjusted down to 0?

You will ALWAYS have salt in the water if you’re using chlorine of any type. Because of this fact we’ve set a default salt level at a “best guess” level of 1,000ppm. You can override this level and insert a zero level for salt, but it likely won’t be as accurate.

 

[Docpatel]

You will ALWAYS have salt in the water if you’re using chlorine of any type. Because of this fact we’ve set a default salt level at a “best guess” level of 1,000ppm. You can override this level and insert a zero level for salt, but it likely won’t be as accurate.

Great to know. Thank you! Love this site.

 

[Oly]

Get a salt test you might be amazed, I was. My liquid chlorine treated pool tested 4700 ppm after 3 years of a drain and fresh fill.

 

[Docpatel]

Thanks. I'm not a fan of. Leslie's but might make a trip out there.