My SWG is not producing chlorine, SWG indicated 2200 ppm yesterday and I added 40 lbs of salt yesterday afternoon. This morning SWG still indicates 2200 ppm and is not producing chlorine. I have tested the water with the test kit and it indicates 3400 ppm which should be more than adequate for the SWG to run. Nothing on the SWG to indicate there is a problem except low salt. I do not believe the 2200 ppm reading yesterday was accurate. Several weeks ago I have readings from both the test kit and the SWG that were close to each other. I have added bleach today to keep the FC level up. Any thoughts?
IC40 issues
- Thread starter SteveK52
- Start date
Probably a bad temperature sensor.
What is the date from the sticker on the bottom of the cell?
When was the cell installed?
What is the date from the sticker on the bottom of the cell?
When was the cell installed?
The cell is probably reading the temperature as 90 degrees or higher.
Press and hold the More button until the lights scroll, release the button and note which percentage lights light up.
Within two seconds of releasing the More button, press and release the More button again and note which percentage lights light up.
Press and hold the More button until the lights scroll, release the button and note which percentage lights light up.
Within two seconds of releasing the More button, press and release the More button again and note which percentage lights light up.
I have Screenlogic which is indicating "very low salt". I have the output set for 50% and the lights on the unit itself indicate it is at 50%.
Press and hold the More button until the lights scroll, release the button and note which percentage lights light up.
Within two seconds of releasing the More button, press and release the More button again and note which percentage lights light up.
Within two seconds of releasing the More button, press and release the More button again and note which percentage lights light up.
Steve,
If the cell "thinks" the salt is below 2600 it will not produce any chlorine. It does not matter what the actual salt level is, as long as the cell thinks the level is low.
I agree with James that the flow switch assembly is bad. It has a temperature probe that will cause the cell to misread the amount of salt.
If your cell is only a year old, then just have Pentair, or your pool builder, come out and do a warranty repair.
It is also a very easy DIY repair.. The part cost less than $100 bucks.
Thanks,
Jim R.
If the cell "thinks" the salt is below 2600 it will not produce any chlorine. It does not matter what the actual salt level is, as long as the cell thinks the level is low.
I agree with James that the flow switch assembly is bad. It has a temperature probe that will cause the cell to misread the amount of salt.
If your cell is only a year old, then just have Pentair, or your pool builder, come out and do a warranty repair.
It is also a very easy DIY repair.. The part cost less than $100 bucks.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Pentair Intellichlor ICXX SWG - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
The test procedure will indicate what temperature the cell is reading from the sensor.
What is the water temperature?
The water temperature is currently 65 but has been 70 for the past couple of days. I did your test and both readings where 60%, does that indicate the unit thinks the water temp is correct?The salt has to be fully mixed and the cell has to restart for the new salinity to be accurate.Pentair Intellichlor ICXX SWG - Further Reading
The test procedure will indicate what temperature the cell is reading from the sensor.
What is the water temperature?
Steve,
Assuming the cell was working fine, then it takes about 24 hours for the salt to fully mix with the water. But.. the cell only measures salt at start up and then 12 hours later.. It does not constantly measure the salt level.. Water temp also effect the accuracy of cells readings.
I find that when my water temp is between 55 and 65 degrees, the accuracy of the salt reading is almost always on the low side..
Thanks,
Jim R.
Assuming the cell was working fine, then it takes about 24 hours for the salt to fully mix with the water. But.. the cell only measures salt at start up and then 12 hours later.. It does not constantly measure the salt level.. Water temp also effect the accuracy of cells readings.
I find that when my water temp is between 55 and 65 degrees, the accuracy of the salt reading is almost always on the low side..
Thanks,
Jim R.
60% for the second reading indicates that the cell is reading the temperature as between 56 and 65 degrees.
So, that seems accurate.
Check the cell for scaling and clean if necessary, but only if necessary.
Also, check the salinity a different way to be sure.
Are you using a K-1766 salt test kit?
So, that seems accurate.
Check the cell for scaling and clean if necessary, but only if necessary.
Also, check the salinity a different way to be sure.
Are you using a K-1766 salt test kit?
Jim,
I added the salt yesterday around 3:00 pm, I have the system set to run from 8:00 am to 8
m, the system started this morning around 3:30 am due to low outside temp. I have stopped and restarted the cell and see the same exact number from before I added the salt.Went to the wonderful pool builder today to ask about the warranty and they questioned my salt numbers and wanted me to go to a professional to verify the numbers. I explaind I had a test kit that was very accurate and that I even used the cheap test strips they gave me and the numbers were no where near what the SWG is indicating. They then explained the the cell needed to be acid washed 3 times a year and sold me a kit comprising of a cap and "O" ring for $35.00. They explained even though the unit is under warranty that if they come out, they would charge me a minimum of $89.00 just to look. I came home and took the SWG off and examined the plates, which look like brand new, no scale or any sign of anything on them, still shiny new. As stated in the instructions, "if it looks OK do not acid wash". Took the garden hose to the inside and reinstalled. Will Pentair honor the warranty without the dealer being involved?
Even though the K-1766 is highly accurate and reliable, you need to check the salinity at least two other ways to verify the actual salinity.
Bring a sample to the builder to have them check it.
Bring a sample to a pool store to have them check it.
Maybe get an electronic tester to check or a different K-1766.
Once you definitely show that the salinity is more than 600 ppm off, file a warranty claim directly with Pentair.
Are you sure that you're doing the temperature test correctly?
Don't acid wash the cell if it's clean.
Bring a sample to the builder to have them check it.
Bring a sample to a pool store to have them check it.
Maybe get an electronic tester to check or a different K-1766.
Once you definitely show that the salinity is more than 600 ppm off, file a warranty claim directly with Pentair.
Are you sure that you're doing the temperature test correctly?
Don't acid wash the cell if it's clean.
OK, thanks for taking the time to reply. I have tried to follow your instructions on the temperature test however when I hold the more until the lights scroll and then release it, it is much longer than 2 seconds before the percentage lights light up. Am I missing something?
It might not show any lights on the first part of the test.
Once the lights scroll, a percentage light should light immediately when the scrolling stops.
If no light lights up as soon as the scrolling stops, then it's less than 20%.
Once the scrolling stops, give it one second to see if a light lights up and then press and release the More button again and see which lights light up.
Once the lights scroll, a percentage light should light immediately when the scrolling stops.
If no light lights up as soon as the scrolling stops, then it's less than 20%.
Once the scrolling stops, give it one second to see if a light lights up and then press and release the More button again and see which lights light up.
James,
Originally had the output set to 50% which actually lights the 60% light on the display and after running the original test the light was at 60% both instances. So for my last test I set the out put to 20% and oddly enough both test show 20%. What am I doing wrong?
Originally had the output set to 50% which actually lights the 60% light on the display and after running the original test the light was at 60% both instances. So for my last test I set the out put to 20% and oddly enough both test show 20%. What am I doing wrong?