IC20 vs IC40 for smaller pool

Jump to latest Follow Reply
The IC60 is 40% larger (in terms of chlorine production) (rounding off for simplicity), so...
In theory, you can run it 40% lower than the IC40 which means
In theory it should last 40% longer. I'd $170 is LESS than 40% of the price of a new IC40 cell, then it's a good value (I'm almost sure it would be). If $170 is more than 40% of a replacement cell, then it's cheaper to buy two IC40s. You don't really need the breathing room percentage wise, so it's a matter of cell life. The only cons are because the cell will last longer, you statistically have a higher (but still low chance) of the flow switch failing, but even that is replaceable for like $60 or so. Also make sure you maintain the cell to avoid premature failure and wasting your investment.

I think you're looking for a black and white recommendation, so yes. If that pricing checks out, and you've got the extra 170 to shell out now, then go for it. *I would*.

Hope that helps.
 
rob.mwpropane said:
I'm assuming everyone runs their SCG "x" amount of hours because that's how long they run their pump? I thought the idea was to run the pump at low speed 24 hours, why not run SCG at a lower % all day? I'm just asking, I have little experience personally. I've played around with a few at clients houses, but never long enough to test.

I guess I'm asking is it better for shorter run higher %, or longer run lower %?
Click to expand...

I'm not as lucky as others, I need to run my VS pump faster at 1725rpm to close the flow switch of my SWG. At that speed the pump noise is a little more noticeable (than say around 1200rpm), and since the pump is right outside my single pane bedroom window, I really don't want to listen to it run at night, so I run my pump from 9am-8pm (11hrs) and I run the SWG within that range from 10am-7pm (9hrs). With 9hrs of SWG run time per day, I need to run it at 100% duty cycle to make enough chlorine to keep stable at 6ppm (80ppm CYA). I would be better off with a bigger SWG cell (IC60), but I got what the PB installed.
 
rob.mwpropane said:
So with that said, and all my requirements, if you were me would you get the 40 or the 60? Difference is about ~ $170 which isn't so bad. Just planning for the future:)
Click to expand...

If you have only 15,000 gallons of pool water, I would think the IC40 would be plenty (rated for 40,000gal, 2.7x your pool). Realize with the Pentair SWGs, if you don't have automation controlling the SWG, then you can only adjust the cell output to 2%, 4%, 6%, 8%, 10%, 20%, 40%, 60%, 80%, 100% (I think that's right, check the manual) with the buttons on the SWG. My concern for you would be during the cooler months a IC60 cell may not be able to make a small enough amount of chlorine for your pool? I'm new to SWGs and only been running mine for a couple months and haven't been through "cold" weather with it yet, so you should probably check with more experienced people, but I do see that the IC60 might possibly be overkill for your pool.
 
LapPoolMike said:
If you have only 15,000 gallons of pool water, I would think the IC40 would be plenty (rated for 40,000gal, 2.7x your pool). Realize with the Pentair SWGs, if you don't have automation controlling the SWG, then you can only adjust the cell output to 2%, 4%, 6%, 8%, 10%, 20%, 40%, 60%, 80%, 100% (I think that's right, check the manual) with the buttons on the SWG. My concern for you would be during the cooler months a IC60 cell may not be able to make a small enough amount of chlorine for your pool? I'm new to SWGs and only been running mine for a couple months and haven't been through "cold" weather with it yet, so you should probably check with more experienced people, but I do see that the IC60 might possibly be overkill for your pool.
Click to expand...

I see. I have the Intex SCG now (going on 3 years), it's held up well, but it's not "great". It's not adjustable. I'll have to look at everything and see what would be better for me. I like the idea of bigger is better, but in the winter, it would only be doing the spa. I would think that the 60 might be overkill for ~ 1800 gallon swim spa.

That chart on the previous page, I can't seem to find it. Can someone share a link?

FWIW, automation is in my pool dreams (so is an inground, but I just can't justify the cost....yet), and everything I've purchased so far has been with that in mind... I have a good amount of experience dealing with the Pentair Easy Touch, and setting them up / installing, and I love the ease of it.
 
LapPoolMike said:
Realize with the Pentair SWGs, if you don't have automation controlling the SWG, then you can only adjust the cell output to 2%, 4%, 6%, 8%, 10%, 20%, 40%, 60%, 80%, 100% (I think that's right, check the manual) with the buttons on the SWG. My concern for you would be during the cooler months a IC60 cell may not be able to make a small enough amount of chlorine for your pool? I
Click to expand...

Unfortunately it's not nearly that granular. The options on the Intellichlor are 20, 40, 60, 80, and 100. With automation (Intellitouch, or maybe easytouch? you can go by 1%). Making too much CL is a valid point, but based on the chart I posted on the previous page, I don't think there much chance of that. OP is in Maryland, so probably closing over the winter I'd assume, but even if not, based on the run time chart for his pool, at 20%, the IC 4 would satisfy a 1pmm FC demand in just shy of 7 hours of pump runtime. The IC40 by comparison would take just under 10 hours. so worst case scenario, decrease the pump run time by 3 hours if your FC demand is really that low.
 
BestJoeyEver said:
Unfortunately it's not nearly that granular. The options on the Intellichlor are 20, 40, 60, 80, and 100. With automation (Intellitouch, or maybe easytouch? you can go by 1%). Making too much CL is a valid point, but based on the chart I posted on the previous page, I don't think there much chance of that. OP is in Maryland, so probably closing over the winter I'd assume, but even if not, based on the run time chart for his pool, at 20%, the IC 4 would satisfy a 1pmm FC demand in just shy of 7 hours of pump runtime. The IC40 by comparison would take just under 10 hours. so worst case scenario, decrease the pump run time by 3 hours if your FC demand is really that low.
Click to expand...

After reading the manual I too think you can go 2-4-6-8-10-20-40...etc.? Is this not true?

Edit: I know you get much better control w/automation
 
rob.mwpropane said:
After reading the manual I too think you can go 2-4-6-8-10-20-40...etc.? Is this not true?
Click to expand...

Yes, on my Pentair IC40 manufactured in September 2016, I can adjust it in 2% increments from 0% to 10%, then it jumps to 20%, then 40%, then 60%, 80% and finally 100%. The older cells may have been different. Again, I'm talking about adjusting my cell manually with buttons on the cell, vs adjusting with automation.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
LapPoolMike said:
Yes, on my Pentair IC40 manufactured in September 2016, I can adjust it in 2% increments from 0% to 10%, then it jumps to 20%, then 40%, then 60%, 80% and finally 100%. The older cells may have been different. Again, I'm talking about adjusting my cell manually with buttons on the cell, vs adjusting with automation.
Click to expand...

How can you tell when it's set between 1 and 20%. There are only LEDs for 20, 40,60.80,100
The manual makes no mention of this, only that the LEDs will flash when the unit is connected to an automation system and not set to an exact 20% increment.

- - - Updated - - -

BestJoeyEver said:
The manual makes no mention of this
Click to expand...

Ok, apparently there's a version 3 manual.
Looks like units made after 2011 have more options.

Ok, so even then, at 2% in OP's pool, the IC60 would take over 60 hours (per day!) to produce a 1ppm FC rise.
I think he'll be ok.
 
Awesome responses from all! Thanks guys, IC60 it is. My thoughts are to run pump 24/7 at slower speeds, and hopefully match SWG to that....it'll probably be a while before I can afford the IC60 though. Right now my thought is to get it as a package deal with the automation system, that way all said and done it'll be a little cheaper than buying separate. I do have a separate timer that was used for the existing (soon to be old) pump that I can use for the IC60 if need be.
 
BestJoeyEver said:
Is it a pentair intelliflow? You can connect the pump right to the SWG and it can control it directly.
Click to expand...

Yes it is. So will it automatically kill power to the IC when pump isn't running if needed? So no need for a timer if that's the case.

Edit: in most applications that I've seen, I do not see a check valve installed between SWG and a heater. Is this ok practice? Also, on a few installs (like more often than not) I've noticed that the Jandy check valve will be installed, but the flap is installed on the side, so it's nothing more than an expensive coupler. Any reason for that? Sorry that's a little off topic...
 
BestJoeyEver said:
Is it a pentair intelliflow? You can connect the pump right to the SWG and it can control it directly.
Click to expand...

I think you're referring to the new Pentair "iCHLOR", not the "INTELLICHLOR" that's been around a while.

Rob,
BestJoeyEver may have nailed the best option for you, if your new pump is an Intelliflow, looks like the new iCHLOR is adjustable in 1% increments on the cell WITHOUT automation! And I believe it interfaces with the pump to detect activity. The ICHLOR 30 model is "for pools up to 30,000 gallons". If your pump is a new Intelliflow, I'd look at that new iCHLOR 30 closely before buying!
 
Yeah, i dont know the exact details, but there an RS435 cable that runs from the pump to the power center and only runs the SWG when the pump is on. Some of the pump models even let you set the % and swg settings from the pump. You can get the manuals on pentair website. I started looking at the intelliflow until I got to the price tag and decided it wasn't time for me.
 
rob.mwpropane said:
Edit: in most applications that I've seen, I do not see a check valve installed between SWG and a heater. Is this ok practice?
Click to expand...

I've convinced myself that it's ok. When I re-do my plumbing from filter through heater to SWG here shortly, I'll be removing the check valve between heater and SWG that PB installed.....I think this is leftover from the tablet chlorinator days and not needed for a SWG because when the SWG is off there is no more chlorine being produced that could seep back into the heater and damage it (possibly). But do your due diligence and convince yourself!
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply