Last year at startup, I had some difficulty with my IC-40 telling me the salt level was low and/or the water was too cold. I measured the SALT and it was 3200 (I have the TFT Salt Measurement Kit, very handy....)....At the time, I assumed the flow switch was going bad. Ultimately, the unit did produce CL all year long with SALT = 3600 and of course temps in the 75+ range. , so no replacement was attempted.....and at closing last fall I did a very light 20% acid/80% water cleaning before stowing the IC-40 for the winter.
Yesterday I installed my IC-40 and it ran seemingly OK for about one hour, during which time it reported the salt level was HIGH (Blinking GREEN SALT indicator), then ALL lights went off except for the COLD WATER RED indicator, which stayed solid RED. I ran the spa heater for an hour and the water went from +64F to +80F....RED COLD light stayed on. Having looked at similar issue threads on the TFP site, I purchased an aftermarket "flow sensor", which I believe should solve the problem. But it won't be here for a week. Very easy to replace.
In the meantime...I read some threads indicating that if you eliminate the connection to the 10K thermistor on the Flow Switch, it will "trick" the unit into thinking the Cold Water problem is solved....here is one that is most concise:
IC40 cold water light on but water is 86 degrees
So, I interpret this thread to tell me that: if I just disconnect (cut) the Green /White wires coming from the flow switch, this will disable the COLD water sensor and at least allow my unit to operate until the flow switch is replaced..... YES?
This thread also mentions IC-40 Version 3.1 for indicating Water Temp by pressing/holding the MORE button....my unit must be pre-3.1 as it will not go into the secondary measurement mode indicating the measured water temperature.
I was surprised at the variance in prices from $15 to more than $150 for this little flow sensor. That seems crazy....I assume and hope the aftermarket replacement unit will work the same as the expensive one.
Yesterday I installed my IC-40 and it ran seemingly OK for about one hour, during which time it reported the salt level was HIGH (Blinking GREEN SALT indicator), then ALL lights went off except for the COLD WATER RED indicator, which stayed solid RED. I ran the spa heater for an hour and the water went from +64F to +80F....RED COLD light stayed on. Having looked at similar issue threads on the TFP site, I purchased an aftermarket "flow sensor", which I believe should solve the problem. But it won't be here for a week. Very easy to replace.
In the meantime...I read some threads indicating that if you eliminate the connection to the 10K thermistor on the Flow Switch, it will "trick" the unit into thinking the Cold Water problem is solved....here is one that is most concise:
IC40 cold water light on but water is 86 degrees
So, I interpret this thread to tell me that: if I just disconnect (cut) the Green /White wires coming from the flow switch, this will disable the COLD water sensor and at least allow my unit to operate until the flow switch is replaced..... YES?
This thread also mentions IC-40 Version 3.1 for indicating Water Temp by pressing/holding the MORE button....my unit must be pre-3.1 as it will not go into the secondary measurement mode indicating the measured water temperature.
I was surprised at the variance in prices from $15 to more than $150 for this little flow sensor. That seems crazy....I assume and hope the aftermarket replacement unit will work the same as the expensive one.
