Update: I was able to get a cleaning cap delivered overnight from Amazon. I followed the instructions in the user guide for the IC40. There was very little scaling visible by looking with a flashlight. I used a diluted acid wash (4 parts water, 1 part acid) and only left the mix in there for maybe a minute (very little bubbling) and then rinsed well. After the cleaning the IC40 is now showing a level of 2,950 (increase of 300ppm) and the salt level light is now green! It's still reading lower than our test so I guess the calibration is the next step but I wonder if it's possible our K-1766 kit is bad. I want to be confident in our test results before doing a calibration but at least it's back to a 'good' salt level and we are producing the chlorine we want. Thanks as always for all the help!
IC-40 salt reading Not Matching TF-Pro test kit
- Thread starter DSMinAtlanta
- Start date
Update #2: This morning when the pump turned on per its scheduled time, the IC40 is now showing 2,750 (drop of 200ppm) and the Low Salt red light is on once again. I attempted to perform the calibration but I think you all are correct. There is no way to calibrate these new models. The instructions state "After a few moments, the “Good,” “Add,” and “Low” salt lights will begin to scroll, indicating the salt level is being read." Mine does not have an Add light on it at all. I assume that's something that older models had. I did another K-1766 test and it's reading around 3,700. So now I have to play these games with Pentair support for the warranty. I truly believe this unit is defective.
DS,
I find it interesting that your initial tests below all pretty much agree, except your K-1766 test..
- Leslie's test results: 3,050
- Pool Supply Atlanta results: 2,748
- Current reading from IC40: 2,650
- K-1766: 3,900
While the IC40 may be bad, the thermistor test passed, so still think that your K-1766 testing is in error..
But, I have no way to test that theory..
Maybe take a sample to 2 or 3 different pool stores and see what you get... or replace your K-1766 reagents or ???
Thanks,
Jim R.
I find it interesting that your initial tests below all pretty much agree, except your K-1766 test..
- Leslie's test results: 3,050
- Pool Supply Atlanta results: 2,748
- Current reading from IC40: 2,650
- K-1766: 3,900
While the IC40 may be bad, the thermistor test passed, so still think that your K-1766 testing is in error..
But, I have no way to test that theory..
Maybe take a sample to 2 or 3 different pool stores and see what you get... or replace your K-1766 reagents or ???
Thanks,
Jim R.
I may take another sample to a pool store again today. If the IC40 was consistently showing low salt then I would agree there may be something wrong with our K-1766 test. Back in May it was the opposite problem. The green salt light was flashing indicating high salt levels. It was showing values as high as 4,500 and eventually leveled off around 3,900 after we added some water to the pool to dilute it a bit. It was after I cleaned the pump basket that it dropped to the 2,700 range. That’s a huge difference just by cleaning the pump basket and then powering it back on. I have zero trust in this IC40 now and given this is my first pool I’m rather disappointed with the quality of these Pentair products and their terrible customer service. Why would they send me calibration instructions for a model I don’t own? And I’m sure they will try to push back on a warranty replacement because ‘my phosphates are too high’.
DS,
Not that I think your phosphates are an issue, but what is your current phosphate level?
I agree this should be a warranty issue, but worst case, you can always replace the Flow Switch Assembly as a work around.
Just for reference.. I have three pools that all have Pentair Equipment... EasyTouch, IC40, IntelliFlo pumps.. Everything is well over 10 years old and nothing has 'failed'. The pool at my house had a lightning strike, which took out the 2 cards in the EasyTouch, the ScreenLogic protocol adapter, and the SWCG. They were all replaced under warranty by Pentair. I've had to replace all three IC40's, but one lasted over 9 years, one over 8 years and one was over 7 years old, so they were well past the normal 5 to 7 year lifespan..
It might be worthwhile to have a local Pentair guy come out and look at your SWCG.. What did your pool builder have to say??
Thanks,
Jim R.
Not that I think your phosphates are an issue, but what is your current phosphate level?
I agree this should be a warranty issue, but worst case, you can always replace the Flow Switch Assembly as a work around.
Just for reference.. I have three pools that all have Pentair Equipment... EasyTouch, IC40, IntelliFlo pumps.. Everything is well over 10 years old and nothing has 'failed'. The pool at my house had a lightning strike, which took out the 2 cards in the EasyTouch, the ScreenLogic protocol adapter, and the SWCG. They were all replaced under warranty by Pentair. I've had to replace all three IC40's, but one lasted over 9 years, one over 8 years and one was over 7 years old, so they were well past the normal 5 to 7 year lifespan..
It might be worthwhile to have a local Pentair guy come out and look at your SWCG.. What did your pool builder have to say??
Thanks,
Jim R.
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Leslie’s showed 941 ppb. The other pool store showed 640 ppb.
Dealing with the PB has been a challenge when it came to the equipment. The installer was dishonest about changes he was making and the work was sloppy. The last conversation I had with the PB company owner was him telling me he would have the Pentair rep come meet with me to discuss some other issues. He never called me back and the visit never happened. Guess I can try again to get the rep to come out.
DS,
If the phosphates were in the 4K range, maybe it would makes sense to do something, but not at less than 1K..
Maybe your pool builder could just give you the contact info for the local rep???
Thanks,
Jim R.
If the phosphates were in the 4K range, maybe it would makes sense to do something, but not at less than 1K..
Maybe your pool builder could just give you the contact info for the local rep???
Thanks,
Jim R.
That’s what o
That’s what I’m hoping he will do. Here is another test I just got from Leslie’s about an hour ago.
DS,
I still can't get past the fact that every other salt test is at the low end, except your K-1766..
I know Pool Stores can be way off, but they aren't all off, all the time..
You salt cell is well within the margin of error, if the pool store salt test is just close to being correct...
Thanks,
Jim R.
I still can't get past the fact that every other salt test is at the low end, except your K-1766..
I know Pool Stores can be way off, but they aren't all off, all the time..
You salt cell is well within the margin of error, if the pool store salt test is just close to being correct...
Thanks,
Jim R.
So our salt level tests continue to confuse me even more. On Sunday after getting another test from Leslie's, I decided to add around half a bag (little less than 20 lbs) of salt in an attempt to increase our salt level by 200ppm. After adding the salt, the IC40 reading jumped to 2,900 yesterday morning and is currently reading 2,800 as I type this. I went to a different Leslie's location this afternoon for another test since Pentair won't even consider a warranty claim without yet another pool store test. Here is the result:
Sunday's Leslie's test results before adding salt: 2,950
Today's Leslie's test results after adding salt: 2,900
So the salt value went down AFTER adding salt on Sunday. Makes me wonder how inaccurate their testing is. Then I figured I should do another test with the K-1766 kit this evening to see if it showed any increase based on the added salt... and we calculated a DECREASE with a total salt level of 3,400. Here is a video of us doing the test so you all can make sure we aren't completely crazy here:
If I send the latest Leslie's test to Pentair as requested, it will be difficult to justify a warranty replacement. If the above K-1766 test is to be trusted, then we should be able to safely add another 20lbs of salt to bump it up another 200ppm. Make it make sense.
Sunday's Leslie's test results before adding salt: 2,950
Today's Leslie's test results after adding salt: 2,900
So the salt value went down AFTER adding salt on Sunday. Makes me wonder how inaccurate their testing is. Then I figured I should do another test with the K-1766 kit this evening to see if it showed any increase based on the added salt... and we calculated a DECREASE with a total salt level of 3,400. Here is a video of us doing the test so you all can make sure we aren't completely crazy here:
If I send the latest Leslie's test to Pentair as requested, it will be difficult to justify a warranty replacement. If the above K-1766 test is to be trusted, then we should be able to safely add another 20lbs of salt to bump it up another 200ppm. Make it make sense.
DS,
If this were my pool, I would have bought another K-1766, just to make sure I did not get a bad batch of reagents.
Thanks,
Jim R.
If this were my pool, I would have bought another K-1766, just to make sure I did not get a bad batch of reagents.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Done. I just ordered another from Amazon and it will be here Thursday.
So the new K-1766 arrived yesterday. The reagents are a different batch with different date codes (newer). I did a test last night using the same exact method as the video above and the results are identical - 3,400. The only way I can explain the drop in salt levels from previous K-1766 tests is that we have had a decent amount of rain finally after many weeks of dry weather so that would dilute the water as it fills and exits via the overflow drain.
The IC40 is currently reading 2,800. At the end of the day, Pentair does not care about the K-1766 results. They will not even consider them for a warranty claim. They will only accept pool store tests which I have proven to be all over the map. So given we are at 3,400 per two K-1766 tests, my plan is to add a little more salt to get us closer to 3,600 and call it good enough for now. I'm tired of going back and forth with Pentair support on this one.
The temperature can still be off a few degrees, which affects the salinity reading.
You can install a 10K resistor in place of the temperature sensor or cut the temperature sensor wires or install an external temperature sensor.
You can also check the salinity with a conductivity meter.
The Intellichlor measures conductivity and a K-1766 salt test kit measures chloride ion concentration.
These should be the same assuming that all of the TDS comes from sodium chloride, but this is never true.
| Lights | Temperature |
|---|---|
| No LEDs | Below 30F |
| 40% | 36 to 45F |
| 40% and 60% | 46 to 55F |
| 60% | 56 to 65F |
| 60% and 80% | 66 to 75F |
| 80% | 76 to 85F |
| 80 and 100% | 86 to 95F |
| 100% | 96 to 99F |
| 100% blinking | over 99F |
| All LEDs blinking | Sensor bad |
The cell will stop generating chlorine when water temperate is below 52° F, ±3° F (11° C, ±1.67° C) degrees.
You can lock the temperature reading in at any number you want to increase the salinity reading.
For example, if you want the cell to read the temperature as 60 degrees, you can use a 15K ohm resistor, which will increase the salinity reading as long as the water temperature is above 60 degrees.
However, this might cause a cell performance warning because the cell is underperforming relative to the calculated salinity.
I would cut the temp sensor wires or put in an external temp sensor or use a resistor just below the actual water temp reading.
You can lock the temperature reading in at any number you want to increase the salinity reading.
For example, if you want the cell to read the temperature as 60 degrees, you can use a 15K ohm resistor, which will increase the salinity reading as long as the water temperature is above 60 degrees.
However, this might cause a cell performance warning because the cell is underperforming relative to the calculated salinity.
I would cut the temp sensor wires or put in an external temp sensor or use a resistor just below the actual water temp reading.
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I use a high pressure hose nozzel. Takes time but is safe for the cell. I have a hooked wire for pieces that get caught in the "grill". Nothing touches my ruthenium but water.
I have phosphates up the kazoo and my cell works fine. Pentair is bluffing.
Here is my final update on my struggles with this IC40. Pentair support sent the warranty claim over to a local pool company to have them come troubleshoot our issues. However, they said that if it was determined to not be defective, I would have to pay a trip charge of $180/hour so I refused to let them come out. After several calls/text to the PB, they finally agreed to put us in touch with the local Pentair rep. The Pentair rep was just great to talk to and actually knew of our build because he was the one who had to convert our heater from LP to NG since the PB installed the wrong model. He was able to get the warranty replacement approved and that same local pool company just replaced our IC40 with a brand new one. Here are the before and after numbers:
- K-1766 Salt Test = 4,000 ppm
- Original IC40 Reading = 3,000 ppm
- Replacement IC40 Reading = 3,750 ppm