IC-40 salt reading Not Matching TF-Pro test kit

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DSMinAtlanta

Silver Supporter
Jun 27, 2023
192
Atlanta, GA
I've been having the same issues with a brand new IC40. When our pool was first finished in May, the reading from the IC40 was in the 4,500-4,700 which had us concerned about salt levels too high so we actually drained a little bit of water and filled it back with new water. We then tested with the K-1766 kit and it was showing numbers closer to 3,900. Then after cleaning the pump basket out and filling the pump with tap water before powering it back on, suddenly the readings from the IC40 were too low (2,600-2,800). I figured it was because I filled the pump with the tap water and assumed it would fix itself on the next power cycle. It hasn't so I opened a support ticket with Pentair. They of course want test results from a pool store which we did for the first time this past weekend.

- Leslie's test results: 3,050
- Pool Supply Atlanta results: 2,748
- Current reading from IC40: 2,650
- K-1766: 3,900

I just sent Pentair the Leslie's results although they may not do anything. I want to at least have this documented for warranty purposes. When I test with the K-1766 using the speed-stir, I stop after the water has completely changed to that salmon color but I'll try it again with the recommendation from @Jimrahbe above to see where we are.
 
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Jimrahbe said:
DS,

The salt level, 'reported' by the cell has a tolerance of +/- 500 ppm..

It appears to me that your K-1766 tests are in error, just because the other three tests are somewhat alike..

Thanks,

Jim R.
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My wife agrees with your statement and thinks the K-1766 tests may be off. Re-reading how you perform your K-1766 tests, it sounds like we are doing the test nearly the same way. What I can't explain is why the IC40 changed from reading too high to too low simply by cleaning the pump basket and filling the pump back up. I'm going to test again tomorrow and I may add enough salt to raise the number by 200ppm (around half a bag of salt).
 
I just got a reply from Pentair Support after sending them my test results from Leslie's. I also asked them if these could be recalibrated. Here is their reply:
Water test shows high phosphate and it needs to be balanced in order for your salt cell to work.

To recalibrate the salt reading on your Pentair Intellichlor, follow these steps:

  1. Clean the Salt Cell:
    • If the Intellichlor has been in operation for a few weeks, remove and acid clean the salt cell. This ensures an accurate starting point.
  2. Test Salt Level:
    • Manually test the salt level using salt test strips or an electronic salt tester.Adjust the salt level to the proper range (3000-4200 ppm) before recalibrating.
  3. System Status Mode:
    • With the pump running, press and hold the “More” button for 3 seconds to enter system status mode.
    • The lights will scroll across the panel, then go dark. Only the “Power,” “Cell,” “Life,” and “Low” lights will be lit.
  4. Salt Level Reading:
    • After a few moments, the “Good,” “Add,” and “Low” salt lights will begin to scroll, indicating the salt level is being read.
    • It may take up to one minute to read the salt level.
  5. Choose New Salt Level:
    • The salt scrolling will stop, and one of the salt lights will be displayed.
    • Press the “More” button to cycle through each salt level, then press the “Less” button to choose and save the display as the new salt level.
    • The lights will flash, and the mode exits to normal.
  6. Recalibrated!
    • Your unit is now recalibrated to the salt level of the pool.
    • The display will show the output percentage, flow status, etc.
    • The field calibrate mode will exit in 5 seconds if no buttons are pressed.
Click to expand...
 
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DS,

I find it odd that after using Pentair SWCG's for well over 10 years, this is the first time anyone have mentioned this "Cal".. I am skeptical..

I hope you try it out and let us know what happens..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
I just did yet another K-1766 test and my results are 3,600 ppm. My IC40 is reading 2,650 which means it's already reduced its chlorine output and if the reading drops under 2,600 then it will produce no chlorine. I should have known that Pentair would try to blame something in the pool store test results (phosphates). So what to do next? If the K-1766 results are to be trusted, then it sounds like calibrating is the next thing to try?

And do I really need to clean the salt cell if it's just 3 months old?
 
Jimrahbe said:
I find it odd that after using Pentair SWCG's for well over 10 years, this is the first time anyone have mentioned this "Cal".. I am skeptical..
Click to expand...
They used to be able to be calibrated and they feature got removed between this thread and 2011

Update on Field Calibration for the Intellichlor IC40

I have a 6-month old Intellichlor IC40 (V2.01 built July 09) installed on my pool. The LOW Salt light stays on and the Cell is off (no CL being produced). EasyTouch diagnosics show zero salt level. Salt tests using new Aquacheck strips show salt level is 3840ppm. Took sample to Pool store test...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Maybe they added it back again.
 

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Jimrahbe said:
DS,

I doubt you will need to clean it, but I would at least look at it and confirm it is not full of calcium..

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
This will be the first time I've attempted to remove this thing to inspect anything. It looks pretty straight forward but I'm always nervous trying something like this for the first time. I see that I'll need the acid cleaning kit (cap) to perform the proper acid cleaning so I'll try to get one of those ordered as well. What I don't understand with these instructions is what the salt level will read after the calibration is performed. Will it just change the value to something like 3,200?

Again, what makes me think something else might be going on with this IC40 is the fact that the salt level light was flashing green indicating high salt levels. All I did was clean the pump basket and the salt level light has been red ever since that happened. The only other work done around that time was the install and testing of the heater bypass but I'm not sure how that might have damaged anything.
 
DS,

Just shut off the pump and unscrew the unions.. Then just look inside and see if the plates are clean or not.. If clean, just put things back together.

Take a small flashlight with you..

If really filled with calcium, then that is most likely going to be the issue.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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TinFoilHat said:
If you clean it don't use muriatic acid unless you have to. Try using vinegar which will take longer but will be gentler on the plates in the cell. If there is no scaling on the plates then it doesn't need to be cleaned.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice. If I use vinegar, is there a way to safely clean without one of the cleaning caps? The earliest I can get one delivered via Amazon is Tuesday but I want to get this fixed before then.
 
Leslie's doesn't have any stocked in-store around me. I guess the first step is to take a look at the salt cell to see what scaling we are dealing with. We have been fighting high pH since the pool was completed and have been adding muriatic acid on a regular basis. I suppose there could be some scaling buildup after just 3 months with the higher pH levels?
 
Newdude said:
I used to use a large zip lock bag and lots of wraps of electrical tape before I got caps.
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This…….if you don’t have caps use whatever plastic material is available (multiple grocery store bags, ziplocks etc) and tape the tar out of it tight. It will work fine, not ideal but when in the field you have to figure it out lol.
 
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You'll also have the benefit of being sprayed with drops of vinegar when you rip the tape off. I didn't know better and used straight MA like I was told to. I'd get little burning spots 5 mins later not realizing I got drops on my cheek or leg.
 

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