iaqualink schedule help

Okay, that makes sense and I think your VSP speed names look fine given that you don’t use the Spillover function or the Solar Heat function. If you have the DIP switches for both of these off then you are free to rename those speeds and re-use them as you have.

I would still remove the pool speed from your schedule as you don’t need it.

I think it runs the faster heat speed for three minutes after the heater turns off for the cool down cycle before switching back to the lower speed.

One of the things (above) that I said earlier in this thread is incorrect. I thought there was a delay in switching speeds after the call for heat is satisfied. This isn’t the case, the speed switches back to pool, or spa speed as soon as the heater turns off when it reaches temperature. There is no 3 minute delay in the speed switches.

I was just out testing this on the system and confirmed this is the way it behaves.

The three minute delay occurs if you try and turn the pump off, but it will switch to the slower speed immediately after the heater turns off.

Allen, you may want to remove the quoted text above from the Wiki as that statement isn’t correct.
 
Okay, that makes sense and I think your VSP speed names look fine given that you don’t use the Spillover function or the Solar Heat function. If you have the DIP switches for both of these off then you are free to rename those speeds and re-use them as you have.

I would still remove the pool speed from your schedule as you don’t need it.
Ok thanks for the guidance. I only have 1 dipswitch set ON which is for #1 for the booster pump. I do not have Solar Heat or Spillover function active which is why I renamed those labels and adjusted the speeds.
I will remove the Pool circuit from the schedule and see how that works.
 
I added a section about VSP Setup and Scheduling to the Jandy Aqualink wiki based on this thread. Comments are always welcome.

Allen,
Just to let you know, I recently installed the iQ30-RS as an upgrade from the older PDA (Rev 5). It included the PCB and the new 3.0 antenna. The board changeout was a simple replacement as it also came with the faceplate so it was just verifying the dipswitch positions and moving the connectors from the old board to the new board. Also the board uses a CR2032 battery as backup if main power is lost.
The PCB has 2 red connectors so one is for the antenna and the other I used to connect the RS485 wire from the Pentair VSP. I do not have a wall unit or a PDA connected to it. I only use the wireless interface. It is still valid that you can hook up 2 items to each red connector, if needed.
The antenna connected without any issue to my Eero mesh network. They say the 3.0 has an enhanced antenna to work with mesh routers and I did not see any issue for it to connect. I did not turn off 5mHz on the mesh router but simply let it connect per the instructions and it did so.
This is my first time using the iAquaLink app. It is lacking some basic features(IMO) but suitable to turn equipment on or off and select light colors (if applicable). It does also have the One Touch screen.
The Web version is much more user friendly and needed for scheduling and general set up. This is probably no different then with the 2.0 version. Based on what I read, the iQ30 really only upgraded the antenna performance.
 
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