The electrician who wired this house was, well, not the best. We've found numerous mis-wirings and are tackling them as we find them. I'll have him look at this today.
iAqualink iPhone app problem?
- Thread starter bakerj7
- Start date
Yeah cursory research looks like this changed in 2020, so I'm grandfathered, but in any case Pentair requires it so it shoulda been there all along. And as long as he's changing that one, he'll change the Aqualink breaker too so they are all covered. I'd rather have a nuisance trip than blow that board. The wild wind/rain storms here blast water and dust into everything, which can cause arcing. I just replaced a bad outlet yesterday that was a holy mess of crud from 15 years of monsoon and inadequate cover. I've had all those upgraded also.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,077
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Aqualink breaker should not be GFCI.
GFCI is not a surge protector and will not protect the board.
Also, they should be GFCI and not arc protection breakers.
If you want surge protection read Electrical Surge Protection - Further Reading and install a surge protector in open slots in your panel. I use the Siemens FirstSurge protector.
GFCI is not a surge protector and will not protect the board.
Also, they should be GFCI and not arc protection breakers.
If you want surge protection read Electrical Surge Protection - Further Reading and install a surge protector in open slots in your panel. I use the Siemens FirstSurge protector.
MSchutzer
Silver Supporter
Here's something that you can try to maybe figure out what is triggering the Aux3 spillover indication.
When you see the spillover indication active on the App do the following.
1. Go into the One Touch menu items and select "All off".
2. That command should turn everything off, does the spillover slider turn off on the App?
3. Then go to the equipment tab at the bottom right of the app screen. One by one turn on Filter/Pump, Solar Heat, and Cleaner pausing for a few minutes in-between each thing you turn on. Watch the spillover slider and see which one, if any of these actions cause it to turn on. That will be the clue of where to look.
I just looked through the setup menu on my system and I don't see any obvious place where you can assign that Aux3, especially when the spillover dip switch is set to on. You don't have Aux 3 linked to any VSP pump speeds, and that's the only place I can see where you could assign it to something.
When you see the spillover indication active on the App do the following.
1. Go into the One Touch menu items and select "All off".
2. That command should turn everything off, does the spillover slider turn off on the App?
3. Then go to the equipment tab at the bottom right of the app screen. One by one turn on Filter/Pump, Solar Heat, and Cleaner pausing for a few minutes in-between each thing you turn on. Watch the spillover slider and see which one, if any of these actions cause it to turn on. That will be the clue of where to look.
I just looked through the setup menu on my system and I don't see any obvious place where you can assign that Aux3, especially when the spillover dip switch is set to on. You don't have Aux 3 linked to any VSP pump speeds, and that's the only place I can see where you could assign it to something.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,077
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
If he assigned AUX3 before the spillover dip switch was set on that setting sticks.
He should debug it with spillover dip switch OFF as it is an AUX3 problem and not a spillover problem.
That is one of the places where Aqualink is very stupid when dip switches are changed. Old settings are retained but hidden.
This problem has exceeded the capability of experts in pool equipment, aqualink, and computer debug/problem isolation experience. To further pursue the exact cause, current condition, and resolution, I would need schematics and source code for the Aqualink system.
I forestalled the Clear Memory option, as I anticipated it would pose even more difficulty to start anew and I did not want to consume too much of your time figuring out how to reprogram it. That was an incorrect assumption. With the hardware connections, dip switch settings, and aqualink programming advice you have offered above, it was not difficult at all. Aqualink actually did a good job of defaulting most settings. I only had to change a few things. I would not have been able to so easily do it, though, without your excellent help. I should have gone nuclear earlier before wasting so much of everyone's time.
Thanks very much, I have learned a lot here. Y'all have saved me hella $$$, and I doubt most pool techs would have been able to resolve this, considering the local authorized dealer and alleged expert installed and programmed it incorrectly to begin with.
I forestalled the Clear Memory option, as I anticipated it would pose even more difficulty to start anew and I did not want to consume too much of your time figuring out how to reprogram it. That was an incorrect assumption. With the hardware connections, dip switch settings, and aqualink programming advice you have offered above, it was not difficult at all. Aqualink actually did a good job of defaulting most settings. I only had to change a few things. I would not have been able to so easily do it, though, without your excellent help. I should have gone nuclear earlier before wasting so much of everyone's time.
Thanks very much, I have learned a lot here. Y'all have saved me hella $$$, and I doubt most pool techs would have been able to resolve this, considering the local authorized dealer and alleged expert installed and programmed it incorrectly to begin with.