I need help, please!!!

[OscarB]

I really need some help. I am on year three of my pool. It’s been on a cycle of clear-cloudy-green. I can’t take it anymore!

My water tests from the pool store read as good.

Tc-2.5
fc-2.5
ph-7.5
ta-145
calcium - 175
stabalizer - 65.
Phosphates - zero

yet my pool turns cloudy and then green. I’ve pulled apart my multi valve, the gasket looks good. I checked out the glass in the filter- again looks good. I’ve tried floc, a new product called revive, filter cleaner/degreaser, shocking, ultra shocking, clarifiers and phosphate remover. That’s when I stumbled on your site. I’ll definitely go to the method described in the book I downloaded but in the meantime, can anyone offer me some help? I would really appreciate anything!

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to the forum! Well, you've made it here like so many others (myself included) because the water just wouldn't stay clear. The algae will not go away with floc and other pool store snake oils. First you need a proper test kit, either a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C (link below). It ALL starts there. Free store testing is typically unreliable. Then you need to perform a SLAM Process. That is the process that will get your water clear again. For now, I'd recommend adding 1/2 to one gallon of regular bleach to the water each day and order one of those test kits ASAP. I love my TF-100. Also, if you are using the Nature2 mineral product, we highly recommend removing the cartridge. The mineral content will build-up in your water and cause big problems later. Pool chlorine (aka regular bleach) is your water's best defense. Take a look at all of that and also our ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry page and let us know if you have any questions

 

[OscarB]

Test

- - - Updated - - -

Thank you for the reply. Two questions..

1) do I have to take the entire mineral system off? Replace the pvc? Or is there a plug?

2) I understand the cya concept. Why don’t they make pucks without stabilizer in them? Is there a reason this is a bad idea?

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum!

Just do not replace the mineral pack.

They do sell compressed calcium hypochlorite. They add calcium that builds up.

Chlorine is a gas, it must be attached to something so it becomes usable to us. That can by CYA (trichlor, dichlor), calcium (Cal Hypo), lithium (lithium hypochlorite), or water, sodium hypochlorite - aka bleach.

 

[OscarB]

That makes total sense. So if my calcium is on the low side, couldn’t I buy some of the calcium based chlorine pucks and use them when the cya raises to high?

 

[mknauss]

Sure. Be aware the calcium 'pucks' dissolve fairly quickly. They leave behind a goo that holds them together. And you need a specific floater to use them.

Better is to just use cal - hypo from a bucket. Would need to add it every day. Just be sure it is fully dissolved or it can stain your pool liner.

 

[PoolguyinCT]

Sure. Be aware the calcium 'pucks' dissolve fairly quickly. They leave behind a goo that holds them together. And you need a specific floater to use them.

Better is to just use cal - hypo from a bucket. Would need to add it every day. Just be sure it is fully dissolved or it can stain your pool liner.

Cal hypo is the tab that can be placed in a skimmer. I believe it’s a ph of 13 or so.

With a sand tank it is a sustainable treatment. (Joyful sees what I did there) with a cartridge of DE tank, the elements will be caked like concrete.

Cal hypo erosion feeders are starting to penetrate the residential market.

Hopefully joyful dives in soon.

 

[OscarB]

As I do more and more reading (and believing), I calculated with the help of the app that I need to shock to a fc level of 31 due to my cya level. After which I should maintain a fc level of at least 6 but up to 11. My question is if this is a safe chlorine level to swim in? It seems very high. Shouldn’t it be more in the 1-3 range?

 

[tucsontico]

As I do more and more reading (and believing), I calculated with the help of the app that I need to shock to a fc level of 31 due to my cya level. After which I should maintain a fc level of at least 6 but up to 11. My question is if this is a safe chlorine level to swim in? It seems very high. Shouldn’t it be more in the 1-3 range?

Any level of FC up to the SLAM level is safe to swim in. However, the reason you're SLAMming is due to algae (green, cloudy water). It is unwise (unsafe) to let anyone swim in a pool when you cannot clearly see the bottom. The real key is to have BALANCED pool water--meaning keep the water chemistry within the recommended ranges listed in the PoolMath app. in the long run, it is not just FC you need to be concerned about, but all the chemistry in your water. The only way to get to know your pool's chemistry properly (since every pool is different) is to get one of the recommended test kits (TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C) and do your own pool water testing.

BTW, my FC level has been 4-5 ppm for over 4 years and has never caused any problems with any family or guests. My water has been crystal clear since adopting and adhering to the TFP methods (2013).

 

[OscarB]

I guess that is what has me confused. I figured that chlorine is dangerous at a certain set number. Why is it safe at different amounts based off of the cya? Is a fc level of say 12 dangerous to swim in if the cya level is only a 20?

 

[Texas Splash]

I guess that is what has me confused. I figured that chlorine is dangerous at a certain set number. Why is it safe at different amounts based off of the cya?

CYA (stabilizer/conditioner) by design and at the proper level, protects the FC from the sun and serves as a shield to swimmers and the pool/equipment. If someone had no CYA in the water, an FC of 4 or more would be too harsh. But once the stabilizer is in the water, it becomes bound to the chlorine which is why we can have (or must have) higher FC levels in some pools. Always refer to the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] to keep those two balanced properly for both sanitation and comfort.