I am happy that you are happy that dfwnoob is happy.I am happy that you are happy.
I am happy that you are happy that dfwnoob is happy.I am happy that you are happy.
From everything you posted above, it is doing the exact *opposite* of what you hoped.I do go to the pool store to get my water tested just as a sanity check
One big fappy hamily!I am happy that you are happy that dfwnoob is happy.
I do go to the pool store to get my water tested just as a sanity check,
To be fair, Taylor tests only take a snapshot of the parameters of that moment and wouldn't always see a problem. You don't have a TA / PH / CH / CYA problem and if the FC and CC behaved for a minute, no test would know.They told me my water was "perfect" when it's clearly not
Hah. Okay, you've summed up my story! Only difference is last year *I*, asked them to replace the UV bulb because the "bad red light" was lit on the box. That was my first season, they came last year twice a month, dumped a bunch of stuff in and it seemed okay - except looking at pictures from last summer I could tell the water wasn't exactly crystal clear.New pool owner during winter (came with the house). Pool Store told me that the UV system needed to be replaced, $1000 ("it will sanitize your pool"). What did I know? (Hint: NaDa). Sure, replace it! They opened the pool, fired up the puck chlorinator, and replaced the UV. I followed their instructions on adding pucks...two weeks later pool turned green. Daily 45 minute trips to the Pool Store (over 10 days) with water samples that turned into daily $50 purchases...clarifiers, algaecides, shock, phosphate removers. At one point I finally realized they had given me the same water results, but a different chemical set. #PoolStored.
When you have a much better understanding of the TFP method, you could eventually use the shock packets. Knowing exactly what you're putting in your pool is the most important part.The worst they got me for was 6 $40 bags of salt and a box of shock packets. Most of those are still in the box!
Yes you won't need it for the plaster but if you have a heater it's recommended to keep the CH @200ppm.Important note: you don't need calcium for a vinyl pool but if they sold you Cal Hypo it won't hurt the pool either.
Yeah, I did need that amount of salt. I just greatly overpaid for it! When I decided to bump the PPM a little more a month ago, I bought a bag of water softener salt.The good news is you will use the salt eventually!
When you have a much better understanding of the TFP method, you could eventually use the shock packets. Knowing exactly what you're putting in your pool is the most important part.
Depending on the ingredients, you can estimate how much CYA, calcium and chlorine you're putting in.
Important note: you don't need calcium for a vinyl pool but if they sold you Cal Hypo it won't hurt the pool either.
Welcome to TFP!
We also have to dump water at closing, so we are able to use some of the pucks and packets each summer for cya and chlorine.I suppose that is true, I can throw it in next summer when I need to bump the CYA to cover for the water I'll have to dump at closing time.